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Description:

Good line and fun climbing, with great views.

Starts left along the cliff approximately another 10m from "Talisman" where a gully leads steeply up to the photographers ledge with a black slab on it’s right hand side. Start here.

  1. 28m (15*) Up sustained technical black slab past 10 U-Bolts and fixed hangers. Steep finish to belay at rap station on small ledge. Alternatively, continue through steeper terrain (grade 17) past another 4 bolts (15 quickdraws in total) to belay on enormous "Squash Court" ledge. The latter option spreads the difficult climbing between the two pitches, and reduces rope drag on the second pitch.

  2. 33m (18**) up and right on good holds to gain enormous "Squash Court" ledge. Shake out and blast up the arête (tricky swing left where the holds run out) to fun exposed easier climbing above on superb compact rock. 10 bolts if climbing from first belay, or 6 bolts if climbing from Squash Court belay.

From top, 60m rappel to ground, carefully 30m to 1st belay, or 25m to Squash Court. 33m rappel from Squash Court to ground, but it is possible to swing up the ramp left of the start of the climb to reduce this to 30m.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Josef Goding & Adrian Koneig, 2012

Location:  

Located in Dreamtime Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -37.313900,142.489825

Route Grade Citations

15,18 Community registered grade
15,18 **Steve Gretton

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 62%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

beautiful nice awesome tricky exposed traverse

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