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Description

This is the cliff to the right (north) of Heatherlie Heights. It has tall and imposing lines, and a number of inspiring routes, but the effort required to access the cliff will deter many people.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

From the intersection of Pines Road and the Mt Zero - Halls Gap Road, head north 4.24km to the Heatherlie Track intersection and car park, then continue north along the Mt Zero - Halls Gap Road for 1km. Walk 780 metres south-west straight up to the right end of the cliff, keeping out of the gully that leads up to the cliff. Allow 40-60 minutes for the approach.

Descent notes

Descent is by abseil (likely 50 metres or more) from trees atop The Silent Miaow, Easy Options, and Dream On.

Routes

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Grade Route

This is the black left-facing corner at the left end of the worthwhile area of the cliff. Climb past the steep start and finish up jugs to abseil from a tree.

FA: Chris Baxter & Kieran Loughran, 2001

About 1m right of The Silent Miaow is a thin crack with a steep start. Climb this, then head up the easy line on the right arete of The Silent Miaow. Finish up some jugs to the abseil tree above.

FA: Chris Baxter, Stephen Hamilton & Peter Woolford, 2002

Climb the major black right-facing corner 3m right of The Silent Miaow. Head up to the roof, exit dramatically up left, then up easily. Head left to the abseil tree above The Silent Miaow.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chrix Baxter & Peter Woolford, 2002

Start at the major line 13m right of Farewell Freddie and 10m left of Easy Options. Be careful with the rock. Head up the line to the ledge, then climb up more steeply in the same line. Go up easily until you can traverse horizontally left to the tree above The Silent Miaow.

FA: Peter Woolford, Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2002

This is the major line 4m right of Going Over To Susan's House and 4m left of The Song Of The Lamb.

  1. 40m (Crux) Easily climb up to the overhanging rock, then head up and left to the foot of the crack in the steepest section. Climb up this and the line above to a body-chimney then step left to a ledge.

  2. 30m Move left to the next line, climb up for 10m, then head over to an abseil tree on the left.

FA: Tibor Janus, Chris Baxter (alt. leads) & Felicity Rousseaux, 2008

4m right of A Senior's Moment and 2m left of Easy Options is a major line on lichenous rock. Take one each of a Camelot #4 and #5.

  1. 20m (Crux) Head up the thin crack until it becomes steeper. Move right and up the seam to a distinctive off-width crack that goes through the steepest area. Belay at a small stance 5m higher.

  2. 12m Continue up the line to a small stance in the black right-facing corner.

  3. 25m Head up the corner on the right for 4m, then up its right arete to a ledge. Move 2m right, then up the arete.

FA: Chris Baxter & Kieran Loughran (alt. leads), 2001

28 metres left of The Silent Miaow, and left of the centre of the cliff are some steeper, less broken walls before some overhangs. There are a couple of boulders leaning against the right side of the face. Climb up the left side of the boulders to continue up the right-leaning hanging corner line to a ledge on the right. Abseil from a small tree.

FA: Wayne Maher & Derek Visser, 1994

This is another major line, 6m right of Easy Options and has a cairn at its base.

  1. 25m (Crux) Climb the difficult-to-protect right-facing corner, then continue up the major crack above to the ledge on top of Easy Options.

  2. 25m Above are two lines. Climb the left one, which has great rock. When it finishes, head straight up the slabby face.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter (alt. leads) & Tony Maasakkers, 2006

5m right of Buckley's Brigade is a major crack with a cairn at its base.

  1. 25m (Crux) climb the crack to the ledge where Easy Options finishes.

  2. 25m Head up right on the black wall to a line. Follow this, moving right past the final overhang.

FA: Geoff Gledhill & Chris Baxter (alt. leads), 2001

This has lovely climbing, and is easier than it looks. Start at the small pinnacle immediately right of The Girl Of My Dreams.

  1. 25m (Crux) Climb up the small pinnacle and crack above it to a ledge at 5m. Move 2m left to a right-slanting ramp and climb it to the ceiling. Pull up into the bottomless black chimney, then head right to avoid the next overhang. Climb up the short slab to the ledge.

  2. 25m Move 2m left and continue as for The Girl Of My Dreams.

FA: Chris Baxter, Pia Larque & Wayne Maher, 2008

This is the huge line 25m right of Isis and 5m left of Dream On.

  1. 30m Climb up to the foot of the chimney, then head up the line to a small ledge on the right, below the overhangs.

  2. 25m Climb the wall immediately right of the line, then step up left to the first cave. Climb the overhang to a second cave, then follow the line through a second overhang. Finish at the abseil tree above Dream On.

FA: David Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt. leads), 2007

This is another mega line that starts about 30m right of The Girl Of My Dreams and about 15m left of the cave at the right end of the cliff. It has a cairn at the base.

  1. 30m (Crux) Climb the line with a small eucalypt at 3m. Head up to a distinctive black and yellow overhang at 25m and belay on the ledge just above.

  2. 20m Climb the bulge and continue up the line.

FA: Chris Baxter & Geoff Gledhill (alt. leads), 2001

Exact details are unknown. It is approximately 5m right of Dream On, and 10m left of The Last Dash. It may go up or close to the chimney. The first ascent would have been before 07 June 2008.

Climb the toe of the buttress 10m right of Audax. Climb past the the left side of the cave to join the last section of Audax.

FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter & Pia Larque, 2008

On the right side of the cliff, to the right of a cave low down, is a short right-facing orange corner below some steepenings. Climb the right side of the corner and then step left below the steepenings. Head up and left to finish up the wall above.

FA: Derek Visser & Wayne Maher, 1994

Start as for Old Tech, then continue up the crack on the right edge of the buttress. Abseil from a tree at the top.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 2006

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