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Description

A much easier to access cliff. Most of the climbs are on South faces that have shade nearly all day in summer. The climbs tend to be on the side walls of East facing blocks and follow cracks between the strata, most of which are right leaning.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

The obvious S facing cliff on the other side of the creek about 15mins into the walk-in. Head down to the creek and up to the first block [Conservative Crag]

Routes

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Grade Route

This is the first cliff you reach heading uphill from the creek. It has a number of right leaning lines and two prominent chimney lines. Descend at the left hand side down a steep and fairly unstable hillside. Some abseil anchors would be preferable.

At the LH end of the cliff a R leaning crack/chimney line. Committing pull up into line then up more easily. A BD#3 in a shallow pocket to the L of the line protects the start.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 5 Mar 2015

3m R of Republicans two wide cracks start 5m up. Up and L past small orange triangle to foot of cracks. Up these exiting L to finish up narrow buttress between chimneys.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 11 Dec 2014

Up the RH branch of the main central chimney.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 11 Nov 2014

1m R of RHTC. Up into R leading line, pleasant balancy climbing up this.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 11 Dec 2014

5m R of Tories is a wall leading to some deep wide cracks. Pull up onto small ledge, up past 2 FH to deep R leaning crack, up this. Good climbing and protection.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 5 Mar 2015

The short chimney towards the RH end of the face, just R of Whippet. Exit L towards top and pull up onto easier ground.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 11 Dec 2014

About 50m uphill from Conservative Crag is a small steep orange wall. It has a distinctive white quartz streak towards its LH side. Up blocky groove L of this streak to ledge. Step R onto face and up to below the large protruding block below the overhangs. Exit L. Care needed with rock and protection.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 5 Mar 2015

Uphill and L from Conservative Crag about 80m are some more South facing blocks. The LH of the bigger blocks has an obvious deep wide R leading crack towards its LH side. This crack is Suez Crisis. Descent is possible at both ends.

The LH arête of the Suez Crisis block, the route struggles to stay out of the dead tree and is hard to protect.

FA: Peter Cody, Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 31 Jan 2015

Uphill and L from Conservative Crag about 80m are some more South facing blocks. The LH of the bigger blocks has an obvious deep wide R leading crack towards its LH side. Hard entry to crack then up to summit block, traverse L beneath this and up short chimney crack.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jerry Maddox & Peter Cody, 31 Jan 2015

Face climbing on good rock. 5m R of Suez Crisis is a R leading orange seam. Start up the seam, move L onto a ledge. Up face past 3 FH. Up R of third FH to finish up R leading crack. Easily L and through break to top. Take medium cams for the climbing above and below the bolted section.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 12 Mar 2015

Start as for Mithridates. Up, then step R to follow the right wall of the seam to the steeper headwall, up this on fragile jugs finishing up L.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 11 Dec 2014

Start at the arête R of Seamless. Up L of the arête, step L at a ledge to the thin juggy cracks, up these then L up arête to finish through break.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 5 Mar 2015

Start just R of Disraeli. The crack around the R arête, bridging into the chimney, to ledge. Climb easy corner moving onto the L face to avoid the massive loose looking blocks. Finish up easy break in overhangs.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 5 Mar 2015

The next block R of the Suez Crisis block. Start up L arête just R of wide crack/gully separating the two blocks. Up to and up juggy flake to easy angled section, finish up short wide crack to summit. Descend down the North side of the block, possibly roped up.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jerry Maddox & Peter Cody, 31 Jan 2015

Just R Bon Mot of is an intermittent R leading crack which is steeper and much better than it looks. Up the crack, good steep moves with some amazing holds and excellent protection [cams to BD4]

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 11 Dec 2014

Uphill behind the Suez Crisis blocks is a large South facing cliff with two big chimneys lines. Descent is down through the chimney/chasm at the right hand end.

Uphill and behind the Suez Crisis block is a larger cliff, also facing south. At the L had end of this cliff are 2 right leaning crack lines. Up the RH line.

FA: Jerry Maddox, Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 31 Jan 2015

About 30m R of Right Crack is a deep chimney [the R hand of 2 chimneys on this cliff]. Climb the overhung stepped corner on the L side of this chimney.

FA: Peter Cody, Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 30 Jan 2015

From behind the Pickett’s Charge block head uphill and L 80m to a pinnacle with a L curving crack. Up the steep juggy crack exiting L.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 13 Mar 2015

Activity

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