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Description

The 3 main tiers are the main attraction, and are stacked on top of each other; with convenient ramps linking the 3. The first tier is slabby, the 2nd orange and overhanging, and the 3rd is vertical, with some nice corners and sandy aretes.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

The track should approach the cliff at the lower tier. The climb in front is 'Just a Scratch', which sports an obvious piton. There's a nice overhang/cave, and a spring fed waterfall, if you're lucky, and there's overhangs to shelter from the weather on all 3 tiers.

Descent notes

Some climbs have rap or loweroffs, otherwise it's an easy walk down from any climbs L of the waterfall.

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Contents

Routes

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Grade Route

Lower Tier Back to contents

The following climbs are on the lower tier - where the track meets the cliff. Described L to R.

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1
20 ★ Just a Scratch Trad 25m

Nice corner line, with a thin start, and a piton! You can top out, or traverse R at the top to the loweroff on Beestburgers.

FA: Goshen Watts & Dick Lodge, 3 Oct 2017

2
23 ★★★ Beestburgers Sport 25m, 7

Line of FH's up thin slab just R of JAS. Full value climbing.

FA: Goshen Watts, 3 Oct 2017

3
19 ★ Stainless Courage Mixed 40m, 2

Nice slab/wall climb. Over steep start, then balance onto slab and across to FH. Up corner, then up the line until another FH leads you into the top corner. Once you gain the arete it's a bit sandy to finish. Rap anchor is 35m from the ground, a 60m rope may not quite make it.

FA: Dick Lodge & Goshen Watts, 17 Sep 2017

4
21 The Beast of the Campus Trad 35m

Direct start to stainless courage from the cave / overhang. Straight up to top corner, then as for SC. All trad.

FA: Dick Lodge & Goshen Watts, 3 Oct 2017

Middle Tier Back to contents

Steep slightly overhang wall in a great position.

5
Closed Project MixedProject 27m, 6
6
23 ★★★ Forty is the New 23 Trad 25m

Great climbing up the leaning shallow corner; which slowely increases with difficulty. Gain the line via large hole (thread), great moves, with gear much better than it looks after you get past the start. Finish at fixed anchor / lower-off.

FA: Goshen Watts & Abby Watkins, 19 Aug 2017

7
20 ★★ Lost on Migration Trad 35m

Nice climbing up snaking line. Take the L line at first overlap, up a few moves, then carefully traverse L onto small ledge and up widening crack above.

FA: Goshen Watts & Abby Watkins, 19 Aug 2017

Top Tier Back to contents

Easily accessed from the RH end of the Middle Tier. Can also be easily approached from the Briggs Bluff walking trail if you happen to be up there. Follow the creek down and it's the first main cliff-line on the R

8
22 ★ Perspectives are Irrelephant Trad 20m

Arching crack 10m L oft 'Jungle Drums Talk'. Thin crack to good stance half way up. Shake out, take a deep breath and follow the overhanging crack to the top.

FA: Andreas Aachen, 19 Aug 2017

9
20 ★ Jungle Drums Talk Trad 30m

Obvious, smooth, blimp-like corner on the upper tier, about 100m south of the creek.

FA: Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 2001

10
17 Arête 4.0 Trad 20m

To the R end of the upper tier is a steep offwidth in the corner... Luckily this climb takes the arete on the R (starting just R of it).

FA: Dick Lodge & Jeremy Wright, 19 Aug 2017

The following climb is described here, but is actually on the opposite side of the creek, and also on the other side of the rockfall. You can approach from above (first gully N of the main creek), or by scrambling around R of rockfall (be careful, but it's not as bad as it looks if you stay back from the edge).

11
16 No Gnus is Good News Trad 30m

Nice corner with good gear, just beware of a few loose blocks at the start and finish. Starts approx 40m N (RHS) of rockfall, at slabby corner.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2001

12
19 Détente Trad 18m

The next two routes are about a kilometre from No Gnus is Good Gnus. From the track junction above Wildebeest, follow the main track NW for 500m to an orange stone fireplace. Scrub bash north down into a gully then down the gully to the top of the cliff (10 min from track). The climbing is on the portion of the cliff to your right (facing out), and the best descent is at the far end. Cliff faces NW.

Start 5m right of the cave nearest the left end of the cliff (cairn). Up face for 12m to where it blanks out. Move left past loose looking flake, then up seam.

FA: Chris Baxter & James McIntosh, 2002

13
19 Gossip Column Trad 18m

About 150m right of Détente and just right of a chimney corner is a thin left facing dihedral corner. Up this and straight through the bulge. (James lowered off half way up leaving the rope on the route, and Chris lead through).

FA: James McIntosh & Chris Baxter (alt), 2002

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