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Lower Cliff - RHS

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 3

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 4 months ago
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Description

This is a continuation of the Lower Tier - on the RHS of the waterfall, and has a few challenging climbs on grey stone of varying quality. The obvious rockfall is above!

WARNING: Beware of the massive rockfall on the top of much of this cliff as it is extremely loose with much scree and loose rock on top. We didn't witnessed anything come down on our 5 days there, but esp after rain, you never know.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks. See http://m.parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/safety-and-regulations#overview

Descent notes

You can walk L from any climbs just to the R of the waterfall. Climbs further on finish at a rap station (32m).

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Rather mossy adventure wall climb that is quite an outing. Start about 20m R of the waterfall behind boulder. Up shallow corner seams (committing). R at rooflet then trend back L above, heading for the final corner. Guarding the corner is an enormous, hollow sounding block which can be avoided (but appears attached). Launch into final corner (crux) and trend up final juggy wall to belay below final terrace. Take very small wires to a size 3 Camelot.

FA: Goshen Watts & Dick Lodge, 3 Oct 2017

The following 3 routes are located on a smooth S facing wall at the far RH end of the rock-scree. They finish at a rap station that is at least 32m from the ground. You can only just get down with a 60m rope - beware.

Fully engaging wall climb the whole way. Left line of the wall. Gear to size 1 cams.

FA: Goshen Watts & Hywel Rowlands, 1 Jun 2019

A bouldery start (FH) leads into more moderate climbing, up the crack. Hard moves where the crack bends slightly L, then R at the horizontal and up to FH, where final hard reachy moves lead to slopey ledge. Bonus points for finishing direct up crack, without going into the corner.

FA: Goshen Watts & Dick Lodge, 3 Oct 2017

Start on the R at the overhanging arete with FH. Pull hard to gain the line, then up to fixed thread, traverse up and R around the nose, then trend forever up juggy arete until you reach the ledge.

FA: Goshen Watts & Dick Lodge, 3 Oct 2017

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