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Description

You guessed it. Another Baxter cliff!

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

From an intersection on the Halls Gap – Mt Zero Road 2.0 km north of Red Gum Lease Track, take vehicle track we st for 400m then turn right and follow vehicle track north for 1.2 km. Walk uphill for 5 minutes to the cliff. Find Marmalade at the right end of the cliff.

Routes

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Grade Route

Buttress 150m left of left end of main cliff. Takes prominent slabby arête of buttress, pleasant climbing but unprotected at the start.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Christopher Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 2006

Centre of face around right of Upstanding.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Christopher Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 2006

Nice short problem. Just beyond the left hand edge of the main cliff are 2 smaller buttresses. The left one. Climb short steep flake on right side of buttress above alarmingly loose block [which seems to be quite firmly jammed in place]. Pull over bulge above flake then up and left onto front of buttress, up.

FA: Jerry Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2006

Front of clean slabby buttress right of Carry On Regardless. Exit left before the dirty rock.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Christopher Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 2006

Very good. Cairned arete 70m left of Chow Pie. Take care with with loose flakes at 6m.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter & Zoe Foulser, 2003

Arête on buttress starting 20m down left of Rhino.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2002

Sustained; recommended. Above and just left of The Garden of Tears is a pinnacle. This is the prominent seam on the east face just left of arête. Abseil descent.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2003

Another excellent climb on superb rock. Start on arête 3m right of Rhino. Up and slightly right to finish up seam just right of arête.

FA: Chris Baxter, Stephen Hamilton & Zoe Foulser, 2003

Shallow cracks and grooves up the centre of the face right of Oh to Be in England.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Michael Green, 2006

Narrow buttress between Bimbo Bender and the Rhino pinnacle.

  1. 12m Up the middle of the buttress to large ledge and tree.

  2. 10m Crack with steep start.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Michael Green, 2006

Behind top of buttress with next three routes, and 12m right of OTBIE is a major wall.

  1. 12m (crux) Pronounced left leaning crack on left side of wall. Exit up right over big blocks (take care) to scrubby ledge.

  2. 15m Bottomless corner above, then on to left arête. Up this on a fine position on good holds.

FA: Chris Baxter, Stephen Hamilton (alt) & Zoe Foulser, 2002

Major buttress 70m left of Marmalade with a substantial tree at half height (landmark). Needs care with pro above tree. Crack in the middle of the face to horizontal break. Right to tree. Up and left to next break. Finish up left side of headwall. Belayed descent from pinnacle.

FA: Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2003

Superb climbing that will clean up with traffic, if it gets any. Shallow groove in arête 5m right of TGOT, then easier line to overhang. Step left and go up steeply just left of main overhang.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter & Zoe Foulser, 2002

Dynamic start. On north face of buttress with previous two climbs, starting from scrubby ledge up right of CTF. Reach over overhang from just right of short fused corner and swing left to easier ground. Up line to where it curves right near the top, then straight up.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2002

Sustained climbing up a good seam. Reach over the overhang as for Dixie’s Girl but then continue straight up thin crack & seam above.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Michael Green, 2006

Attractive rib leading to the highest point of the cliff. Up right of the buttress with The Garden of Tears et al is a huge landmark red roof/cave. Climb the crack starting below and just left of this. Where it thins to incipient and curves left at 18m, step left, then go straight up middle of buttress.

FA: Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2003

Start just left of toe of the narrow buttress reaching furthest downhill at the right end of the cliff. Up and right to crest of rib. Up it (easing).

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2002

Major line up and right of Marmalade on right wall of the same rib.

FA: Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2002

Lovely seam and face 2m right of Our Auld Man. Finish direct up middle of face.

FA: Chris Baxter OAM & Stephen Hamilton, 2002

Attractive face climbing up right of WK.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2003

Good climbing, could easily be done in one pitch. Major crack at right end of cliff, on the last worthwhile rock, about 20m right of GS. Scramble up to below corner-crack.

  1. 15m (crux) Corner-crack to ledge on left, then bulging seam to break. Step left to belay.

  2. 25m Step back right and continue up line, steeply in places.

FA: Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton (alt), 2003

Good climbing up the sizeable face around the arête right of The Chattering Classes. Crack, then sustained face directly above, finishing more easily through a couple of bulges.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Chris Armstrong, 2004

Thirty metres right of Eggs Benedict, part way up a gully is a small wall facing northeast. Straight up wall 2m left of crack at right end of wall [landmark]. Committing moves over orange blob of rock lead to good holds in horizontals. Up

FA: Sam Walmsley & Peter Cody, 2006

Straight up crack 2m right of British Marmite.

FA: Peter Cody & Sam Walmsley, 2006

Activity

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