Lebanon All Trad climbing14 routes in cliff
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Just North of the Promised Land, Lebanon is a continuation from the broken slabs at the R end of that cliff. Unusually for the Grampians the cliff has a number of multi pitch slab routes. Middle grade slab climbs predominate and they all need natural pro to supplement bolts. Quality is variable but the access and descents are easy. Jihad Jack is probably the pick of the routes. At the top of the first pitch of Jihad Jack is a DBB and abseil chains. Many of the routes converge at this belay as this approach avoids having to cross any bushy ledges. The 2 pitch routes all use one of the two DBBs and abseil anchors and chains at the top of Jihad Jack or Jack Thomas. 2 ropes are needed for the abseils, altho’ a single 60m would suffice for the lower abseil and the descent from above Jack Thomas. Some of the glue in carrots are awkward to clip [we put them in a bit deep], flat rather than angled brackets work best or carry some wires.
Access issues inherited from North Grampians
This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.
You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf
If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.
Drive North about 1 km from the Pine Plantation Campground heading towards Roses Gap to the 2nd 4wd track on the L. Walk or drive up to the end of this and continue to the cliff. Head L along the foot of the broken cliff until you hit a large slabby area bounded on the R by a bushy gully between it and a big steep buttress. This is the RH end of the cliff where Hezbollah is. About 10mins walk from the road, 5 mins from top car park. If you walk L along the foot of the cliff from the Hezbollah area for about 250m you come to an area of grey slabs a bit like a lump of the North Jawbone transported to the Grampians. The slabs are bounded on the L by an easy angled square cut corner.
There are DBB abseil anchors covering most of the routes on the main slabs.
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