Site navigation

Section navigation

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Description

Fantastic looking north facing vertical wall. The huge slot cave on the lower R side of the main face is the Emu Cave sport crag (described separately).

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Above 'Muline Crag'. Best approached from Muline, and just keep heading up the left end of the crag, scramble up an easy corner and then hack through about 10mins of hakia (prickly!!!). Alternatively head up the R side of Muline as for Kent's Cave then straight up.

Park your car about 200m south of Muline Creek on Red Rock Road near a small clearing. Head east on old 4WD track for 5mins to road. Turn right, then on your left after about 50-100m is a cairned well established track. Follow this for around 20mins until you reach 'Muline Crag'. Waltz up the left end and scramble left up a corner, then head south east for about 10 minutes through prickly scrub which is steep in places until you reach the cliff.

Descent: there are 3 abseil options. 1) 35m. ~10m left of the top of 'Whipping Boy' is a large bollard with slings and a ring on it. 2) 55m marked on cliff topo. 3) 45m, slings on bollard approx 3m right and down from 'Patagonia' P2 belay. Apparently you can walk off - this would be epic!

© (jgoding)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
20 Quick Draw McGraw Trad 53m

This route takes an obvious crack through a roof 4m off the ground a few metres L of 'Homework'. 1) 18m Up through the roof (crux) to a ledge. Traverse L to belay in a small cave. 2) 20m Traverse out R from cave, and up R-ward leading flake/crack to ledge. 3) 15m Up on jugs to the top.

FA: Jeremy Boreham & Mike Wust (alt), 1993

2
18 Homework Trad 55m
  1. 20m Up arete and step L into L facing corner then diagonally L up steep wall to join 'Quick Draw McGraw' at belay ledge. 2) 35m Up rotten corner to top (or last pitch of 'Quick' Draw McGraw).

Start: Start 12m along from L end of undercut section.

FA: Mike Wust, Wayne Maher (alt) Jeremy Boreham & Jerry Maddox, 1993

Hide
Edit
3
16 ★★ Whipping Boy Trad 80m

Excellent adventure climbing following the obvious curving line on the L end of the cliff. Generally sound rock and good holds compensate for the tasty steepness.

FA: Chris Baxter & Maureen Gallagher (alt) Sue Baxter, 1987

4
16 ★ Wallscrawl Trad 87m

The first of three routes which are direct variants of 'Whipping Boy'.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1988

5
17 ★ Sheet Of Water Trad 100m

The second pitch was first led in driving rain. A variant on 'Wallscrawl'.

FA: James & Melanie McIntosh (alt), 1992

6
16 Mother Superior Trad 90m

More of the same with less pro.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1989

7
17 ★★ Sahara Trad 90m

Sustained and great.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt) Geoff Gledhill, 1989

8
19 ★★ Sahara Direct Finish Trad
9
17 ★★★ Cyclops Trad 80m

Goes where 'Sahara' should have gone.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Parrish Robbins, 1990

10
16 ★★★ Patagonia Trad 130m

Climbing in superb positions up the most imposing line on the wall. The first ascent was completed in true Patagonian conditions; gale force winds, torrential rain and hail.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1988

11
16 ★★ Patagonia direct finish Trad 60m

FA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson, 1991

12
21 ★★ Drung South Trad 60m

Hotter than the 'Sahara'. Starts just R of 'Patagonia' at L edge of giant boulder. Either long ropes or a short first pitch would avoid the need for second and leader climbing simultaneously. Up the juggy crack to a seam, The wall is now climbed direct, veering slightly R at half height to a knee bar at the overlap. Step L and continue up the upper wall to the top, crossing Patagonia's original second pitch traverse on the way.

FA: Parish Robbins & Keith Lockwood, 1990

13
18 Sorority Babes Trad 150m
  1. 30m From bottom R toe of the wall, climb intermittent, diagonal crack system up wall to above small, friable cave. Veer L up wall on vague dyke below base of large cave. HB where rising dyke meets major horizontal dyke. 2) 50m (crux) Traverse L across wall along dyke to HB on L arete of face. 3-4) 65m As for 'Whipping Boy'.

FA: Simon Murray & Tim Peterson (alt), 1995

14
18 Sufferers' Palestine Trad 90m
  1. 35m Start as for 'Sahara' but traverse L across steep wall where 'Sahara' veers R. Through friable section, then up to wall between 'Mother Superior' and 'Sahara'. Face, then vague runnel at 15m, wall. HB at dyke. 2) 25m Directly up wall until it eases, then veer L to meet 'Whipping Boy' at weakness in head-wall. 3) Roped scrambling to top.

FA: Anton Bartlett & Simon Murray (alt), 1995

15
17 The Scar Strangled Banger Trad 20m
16
14 Dirty Morning Trad 10m
17
13 Nile Trad 40m, 2

Left of "Whipping Boy" is a big orange wall. Nile takes the right edge of this wall.

  1. 20m (13) Climb slabby wall trending up right until below overhang. Pull around left side of overhang and up juggy arete to ledge.

  2. 20m (13) Up left and up wall to the left of black slab. Step right to ledge. Abseil off bollards.

FA: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood (alt) & Norm Booth, 2005

Activity

Check out what is happening in Emu Rock.