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Emu Rock

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 4 months ago
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Description

Fantastic looking north facing vertical wall, seen easily from the carpark. It's like Eureka Wall but with loads more jugs (and less striking lines).

The huge slot cave on the lower R side of the main face is the Emu Cave sport crag (described separately).

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Mt Fox Area

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

Approach

Emu Rock is found above Muline Crag.

Park your car about 200m south of Muline Creek on Red Rock Road near a small clearing. Head east on old 4WD track for 5mins to road. Turn right, then on your left after about 50-100m is a cairned well established track. Follow this for around 20mins until you reach Muline Crag. Waltz up the left end and scramble left up a corner, then when you are on the tier above Muline Crag, follow the cliff right until you come to a weakness in the cliff and head up through this. The magnificent Emu Rock is soon apparent.

Descent: there are 3 abseil options. 1) 35m. ~10m left of the top of 'Whipping Boy' is a large bollard with slings and a ring on it. 2) 55m ~ 20m down and right of the top of Cyclops is a bolted rap station (extended with rope, which was looking a little tired July 2018). 3) 45m, slings on bollard approx 3m right and down from 'Patagonia' P2 belay. Apparently you can walk off - this would be epic!

© (jgoding)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Excellent adventure climbing following the obvious curving line on the L end of the cliff. Generally sound rock and good holds compensate for the tasty steepness. Start at L end of wall at corner under roof.

  1. 30m (crux) Up, then move out L to pass overhang. There’s a couple of steps back R to follow the line. Belay on ledge at half height.

  2. 30m Continue up curving line to steep exit through notch.

  3. 20m Scramble to the top or walk L along terrace to abseil bollard.

FA: Chris Baxter & Maureen Gallagher (alt) Sue Baxter, 1987

The first of three routes which are direct variants of 'Whipping Boy'. Start 6m R of Whipping Boy.

  1. 37m (crux) Climb blunt arete under R end of roof. Pass roof and traverse L to line about 3m R of Whipping Boy. Up to SHB level with Whipping Boy’s belay ledge.

  2. 30m Straight up, then veer R on buckets, before going up again to join Whipping Boy at the head-wall.

  3. 20m As for Whipping Boy.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1988

The second pitch was first led in driving rain. A variant on 'Wallscrawl'.

FA: James & Melanie McIntosh (alt), 1992

More of the same with less pro.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1989

  1. 35m Start as for 'Sahara' but traverse L across steep wall where 'Sahara' veers R. Through friable section, then up to wall between 'Mother Superior' and 'Sahara'. Face, then vague runnel at 15m, wall. HB at dyke. 2) 25m Directly up wall until it eases, then veer L to meet 'Whipping Boy' at weakness in head-wall. 3) Roped scrambling to top.

FA: Anton Bartlett & Simon Murray (alt), 1995

Sustained and great.

  1. 35m Climb the little corner just R of Wallscrawl, moving R on to the vague arete after the friable section. Up and R on to main wall, then up through smooth section and a little L into the line of weakness which leads to a SHB at central of three deep cracks just above the first main dyke.

  2. 25m Continue steeply up the line to tilted horizontal line. Step L, then climb cracks above to a patch of grass, which is just below the second dyke. Head up and R to crack/slot, then straight up crossing horizontal that becomes overlap further R to a dramatic exit L via first weakness R of Whipping Boy etc.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt) Geoff Gledhill, 1989

A fantastic route - it's like an easier version of Archimedes Principle (Eureka Wall)! The rock is superbly featured, but it can be rather brittle (esp on first pitch).

  1. 35m It's pretty hard to determine exactly where pitch 1 should go, but all options seem to be about the same difficulty. Aim towards the right most of three deep cracks just above the first main dyke.

  2. 30m Up and slightly R, aiming for the distinctive eye (which provides the means for passing through the second dyke). Keep on the same up-and-right trajectory to pull through the overlap to weakness in head-wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Parrish Robbins, 1990

Climbing in superb positions up the most imposing line on the wall. The first ascent was completed in true Patagonian conditions; gale force winds, torrential rain and hail.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1988

FA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson, 1991

Hotter than the 'Sahara'. Starts just R of 'Patagonia' at L edge of giant boulder. Either long ropes or a short first pitch would avoid the need for second and leader climbing simultaneously. Up the juggy crack to a seam, The wall is now climbed direct, veering slightly R at half height to a knee bar at the overlap. Step L and continue up the upper wall to the top, crossing Patagonia's original second pitch traverse on the way.

FA: Parish Robbins & Keith Lockwood, 1990

  1. 30m From bottom R toe of the wall, climb intermittent, diagonal crack system up wall to above small, friable cave. Veer L up wall on vague dyke below base of large cave. HB where rising dyke meets major horizontal dyke. 2) 50m (crux) Traverse L across wall along dyke to HB on L arete of face. 3-4) 65m As for 'Whipping Boy'.

FA: Simon Murray & Tim Peterson (alt), 1995

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