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Eureka Area

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 5 months ago

Seasonality

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Description

Far northern end of the 'Victoria' Ranges. Has a collection of the most brilliant mid-twenties climbs in the country.

Access issues

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

The Yanganaginj Njawi (Emus' foot) track is a closed to vehicle track at all times of the year. This is regardless of whether it is locked or signed as "Closed". Please do not drive around the gate or through if open. Driving on closed roads endangers access. Approach from Matthew Track if that is open, face a longer walk or climb elsewhere. Discussions with Land Managers are still in progress.

Approach

All of the crags lie above the old vehicle track to Yanganaginj Njawi (Emu's Foot). This track is closed at all times making for substantially longer approaches. When Matthew Track (seasonal 4WD) is open, it can be used until below the chosen cliff, shortening the length of the walk. The Jananginj Jawi track is gained from Red Rock Road about 5km north of Muline Creek.

Matthew Track is a further 1 km north on Red Rock Road or can be accessed from the east off Syphon Road. Matthew Track is seasonally closed, usually from mid-June to first of November. Sections of this track are heavily rutted and there are some long, sandy stretches unsuitable for 2WD but this isn't necessarily a show-stopper. See individual crag access notes.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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