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Climbing in this area is not permitted.

description

Lovely climbing with excellent protection.

Begin on the right edge of the blank orange shield. Up thin broken crack stepping left to flake then straight up the grey streak. The original route stopped here and descent was by scrambling off right with a possible rappel. However, a fantastic new finish was added in 2003 by Josh Janes:

Instead of stopping/belaying, hand traverse straight left under the roof for 15 meters. The difficulty increases as the wall below becomes steeper and handholds become more spaced. Eventually gain a good stance at the end of the roof and belay from a bolted anchor (added in 2017). Rap from here with a single 70m rope (a single 60m rope might reach - watch your ends).

© (kieranl)

Route history

First ascent: Louise Shepherd & Simon Mentz

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -37.19442, 142.27623

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

22 Assigned grade
22 RockGUIDE: Victoria
22 Grampians Selected Climbs
22 South Western Grampians (Gariwerd) Interim Climbing Guide
22 [21 - 23] grAId

ethic

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

inherited from Grampians

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 95 from 17 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 4
Flash 1
Tick 2
Pink point 1
Attempt 2
Target 3

Comment keywords

incredible amazing classic super brilliant ripper exciting beautiful awesome great jugs bad epic fingers fiddly face sustained pumped tired solid crux tricky intimidating

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2009

ISBN: 958733147

With North Gramps, The Black Range, Central Gramps, Halls Gap, Sth East Gramps and the Victoria Range areas covered, you'll have no shortage of inspiration at your disposal. With 800 routes, full colour maps and topos as well as heaps of additional info, this guide will have you sorted.

Author(s): Neil Monteith and Simon Carter

Date: 2015

ISBN: 9780994278401

Neil Monteith and Simon Carter took no time to rest after the release of their 2013 Sport Crags edition and have now release a more comprehensive guide also covering several popular trad and multipitch areas. The guide contains 61 crags and 1200 routes and also includes the likes of Grey Green Walls, Central Buttress, Asses Ears and the popular beginners trad area of Summerday Valley which weren't covered in the Sport only edition. With all the motivating and awe-inspiring photos we've come to expect from Australia's premier climbing photographer Simon Carter, and easy to use layout including access maps and detailed topo's, you won't be left hanging.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 23 Feb
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