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The Chilly Bin

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 38

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 3 months ago
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Description

A wall 50 metres up and around the end of Begenung Wall, provisionally called the Chilly Bin. The Chilly Bin faces due south, meaning it is the perfect crag in summer and has a lovely little creek running along its base. The routes all feature nice technical face climbing.

Access issues inherited from Harrop Track

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The machine gun is beautiful. The left most route on the wall starts from the ledge above the waterfall and climbs up past four or five FHs and a couple of small cams, tending left from the dyke to the anchor at the top.

FA: ross taylor, 2008

Takes in the cruxes of both routes. Start up MeB at the dike move into TGD.

FFA: adam demmert, 2009

Starts in the middle of the wall off a big rock. Up past a FH, to another FH in the dyke, left to the next FH (still in the dyke), then move up and left past three more FHs and the anchor of 'Mitra e Bello'.

FA: ross taylor, 2008

The best route on the wall? At the fourth FH on the Gloaming, instead of going left, go straight up past three more FHs, once on the steep headwall, head right on cams to an anchor.

FA: ross taylor, 2008

Start as for 'The Gloaming'. At the second bolt head directly up past a RB sleazing your way past many slimpers to a thin seam 2RB. At top of seam head left, RB and up to hit the major break. At the break continue to head left and then up through the steeper rock passing the pocket of love and 3 more RB, to a double u bolt anchor.

FFA: adam demmert, 19 Feb 2012

3 meters right of Gloaming, straight up via 4 fixed hangers, then clip the next 2 RB bolts on Sleazy Slimpers slightly left, then back right past another fixed hanger, to finish up gloaming direct - trending left and then up steep head wall on cams to double bolt anchor.

FFA: 9 Dec 2012

The best line on the wall is now renamed. Starts at the right end of the obvious dyke and follows it all the way back left, finishing at the anchor of 'Mitra e Bello'. Take a number three rock or one camalot for between the second and third bolts. You also need a couple of small cams for the last section.

FA: ross taylor, 2008

A bit unlikely. Start at the same spot as Horizon, but blast straight up past three FHs and natural gear to anchor at top. Might be harder than 24 for shorties.

FA: ross taylor, 2008

Starts 5m right of Horizon. Follow the hangers them move diagonally left. No anchor as yet.

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Activity

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