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Description

This attractive little cliff is very accessible in the Grampians and apparently has superb rock reminiscent of the Watchtower. Single-rope abseil descent from large tree (burnt in bushfires of January 2006 but apparently still solid) above middle of cliff. Cliff faces SE and E.

Cliff details taken from VCC Mt Difficult 2007 online update. https://vicclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Mt-Difficult-Update_2007_08.pdf

Access issues inherited from Halls Gap Area

A low profile always helps to avoid too much attention from tourists and park rangers

Approach

From Halls Gap, drive 800m up Mt Victory Road. Park at small pull-in on left, immediately before three arrowhead signs indicating bend in road. From top sign, cross road and walk up and left for 75 m to LEFT end of cliff. Walking time three minutes.

Ethic inherited from Halls Gap Area

Bolting, is considered illicit, along with the rest of the park and other National Parks within Victoria. Only alter routes after considerable consultation with first ascensionests and local climbers.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Slanting off-width (landmark) 5m right of left end of cliff. Harder than it looks. Take a #5 Camalot and two very long slings. Above, go easily up right to abseil tree.

FA: Mikl Law & Chris Baxter, 2006

Beautiful climbing up right side of right wall of Buns of Power. Start 5 m right of Buns of Power, immediately left of small detached pillar. Above, go easily up right to abseil tree. Retro bolted and lower offs added at some point.

FA: Mikl Law, 2006

More good face climbing. The subtle rib formed where cliff changes from facing SE to E. Start 1m right of Island of Doubt. Above, go easily up right to abseil tree. Retro bolted and lower off added.

FA: Mikl Law, 2006

Attractive crack below left end of roof at left end of E-facing section of cliff. Crack to bypass left end of roof, to lower off bolts.

FA: Chris Baxter, Pia Larque & Wayne Maher, 2005

Balancy face-climbing. Up short groove 1 m right of An Embarrassment of Riches. Step up right to R-facing flake. Up and left, then straight up to roof. Step left to top of steep section of ER and finish up AEOR.

FA: Mikl Law & Chris Baxter, 2006

The first (left one) of three juggy cracks at right end of cliff. (First two don’t reach ground.) Boulder wall to foot of crack. Up this, then slightly right up tricky wall. Abseil bolts directly above. Pity whoever put these in and retroed the routes at the left hand end didn't add some bolts to the poorly protected finish of this and the routes to the right.

FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter & Pia Larque, 2005

Up and left to foot of second crack, 2m right of Wailing Wall. Up this, then wall above on fiddly spaced pro.

FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter & Pia Larque, 2005

Up third crack, 1m right of Palais de Melon, then up and right on wall to finish as for Sue’s Garden.

FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter & Pia Larque, 2005

As with previous three routes, this ends with thought-provoking face-climbing. Up flake 2m right of Radio Active and opposite two grass-trees, then directly up wall.

FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter & Pia Larque, 2005

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