Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Bullaces Buttress | |||||
16 | ★ Buns of Power
Landmark slanting offwidth approximately 5m from left end of cliff. Take large cams and and long slings. Go behind large chockstone and easily up and right to abseil tree above (or alternatively, carefully downclimb gully to climbers left). Was originally graded 19 in the guidebook and 22 (!) on theCrag, however appears to have been first climbed facing the opposite way. Having one's left side in the crack makes this a fairly moderate proposition. FA: Mikl Law & Chris Baxter, 2006 | 30m | |||
20 | ★ Island of Doubt
Beautiful climbing up right side of right wall of Buns of Power. Start 5 m right of Buns of Power, immediately left of small detached pillar. Retro bolted and lower offs added at some point; climb no longer rambles to the top of the cliff. FA: Mikl Law, 2006 | 15m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ Skinless Chicken
More good face climbing. The subtle rib formed where cliff changes from facing SE to E. Start 1m right of Island of Doubt. Above, go easily up right to lower offs. Retro bolted and lower off added. FA: Mikl Law, 2006 | 15m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ Mystery Route
Unknown route starting just right of the rib and heading up staying right of 'Skinless Chicken' (shares one bolt) to lower offs. Grade TBC | 10m, 3 | |||
12 | ★ An Embarrassment of Riches
Attractive crack below left end of roof at left end of E-facing section of cliff. Crack to bypass left end of roof, to lower off bolts. FA: Chris Baxter, Pia Larque & Wayne Maher, 2005 | 30m | |||
17 | ★ A Right Drifter
Balancy face-climbing. Up short groove 1 m right of An Embarrassment of Riches. Step up right to R-facing flake. Up and left, then straight up to roof. Step left to top of steep section of ER and finish up AEOR. FA: Mikl Law & Chris Baxter, 2006 | 30m | |||
22 | ★★ Cockatoo Kung-fu
Much like the local wildlife, this one’s a screamer (and an excellent reason to visit). Start calmly up obvious diagonal on east face of buttress. Become daunted by steepness, enjoy a few absolute sinkers then make some noise for the pointy beak of the crack. Claw straight up crimps with less gear (large nut and small cams) and raise your crest triumphantly into easier and mossier ground. Bomber gear for crux, take care of slab below. Tree anchor. FA: Kalang Kedumba Jones, 12 Nov 2022 | 25m | |||
19 | Wailing Wall
The first (left one) of three juggy cracks at right end of cliff. (First two don’t reach ground.) Boulder wall to foot of crack. Up this, then slightly right up tricky wall. Abseil bolts directly above. Pity whoever put these in and retroed the routes at the left hand end didn't add some bolts to the poorly protected finish of this and the routes to the right. FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter & Pia Larque, 2005 | 15m | |||
16 | Palais de Melon
Up and left to foot of second crack, 2m right of Wailing Wall. Up this, then wall above on fiddly spaced pro. FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter & Pia Larque, 2005 | 15m | |||
15 | Radio Active
Up third crack, 1m right of Palais de Melon, then up and right on wall to finish as for Sue’s Garden. FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter & Pia Larque, 2005 | 15m | |||
15 | Sue's Garden
As with previous three routes, this ends with thought-provoking face-climbing. Up flake 2m right of Radio Active and opposite two grass-trees, then directly up wall. FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter & Pia Larque, 2005 | 15m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Socrophiliac Buttress | |||||
20 | Mum's Word
Thin, with spaced pro. Take small cams. Up slabby left arete of Socrophilliac for 12m to break (#4 cam), right 2m above break along thin, horizontal crack almost into Socrophiliac, then delicately to ledge. Left arete and over bulge. FA: Matthew & Daniel Brooks, 1991 | 25m | |||
9 | Socrophiliac
Landmark, left facing corner crack on left side of outcrop. FA: Clive Parker & Lesley Kefford, 1968 | 25m | |||
19 | High Society
Crack 4m right of Socrophiliac to break, right and up over bulge on arete to ledge. L to crack, up to short traverse into Socrophiliac. FA: Matthew & Daniel Brooks, 1991 | 27m | |||
15 | ★ Little Pinnacle
Likely not a 1st but anyway | 8m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Pinnacle Track Boulder | |||||
VB | Spotting the kids
Middle of wall, topout on jug to the right. | 2m | |||
V0- | Warming up
Start on the centre of the easy wall. Go up and left and finish in the jug flake on the top left of the face. | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Tug Boat
Sit start basically under the boulder with hands on big incut rail. Go up through sloper and crimps to topout at the tallest point on the boulder. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Finding Nemo
Start as for Tug Boat but traverse left past Axolotl on small but decent holds, rise up and continue left around overhang to top out as for Man Overboard. Guaranteed to get a pump happening. FA: Chook, 2014 | ||||
V2 | ★ Axolotl
Start on jugs on the right of the main overhang, climb straight up to a surprisingly spicy top out slightly to the left. Can be started on crimps deeper in the cave if you feel like adding a move or two. Please don't break your face on the top-out, you have been warned... FA: Penny Bradshaw, 2014 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Free Willy
Three quite fun moves! Sit Start with funky pockets on the left under the Juggy Flake. Figure out how to pull of the ground then move to the jug, and (dynamically) up and right to a sloper on the lip of the overhang. Top out directly with a gnarly mantle!!! Don't be temped to escape left to an easier top out. Can be started deep in the overhang on crimps at about V6 (V6 FA: Oliver Tobias Bug?) Note: Community feedback prompted grade change from V3 to V4. FA: caillan sainsbury, 2016 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Man Overboard
Start Matched on the big juggy flake under the roof, move up & left through sloper to funky rail, then up and right through overhang on good holds to a bit of a spicy top out. FA: caillan sainsbury, 2014 Set: Jayden Andrea, 1 Nov 2015 | ||||
V2 | ★ Old Greg
Start matched as for Man Overboard, but continue traversing left and top out on the left of the prow. Watch out for dodgy broken rock. FA: caillan sainsbury, 2014 Set: Rowan Jordan, 1 Nov 2015 | 3m | |||
? | ★ Scallops
Start as for Man Overboard, bust horizontally left and get left hand to descent side pull, launch right hand to where your left hand was on thank god the kids are gone, then left hand up to good edge, bump left hand again to monster rounded jug, right hand stretch directly up to good hold, then pop right again and balance your way through the top out. First two moves feel like a v2 then v0 to finish. Set: Guy Moore | 3m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Humpback Boulder | |||||
V4 | Humpback handcrack
A deceptively tricky handcrack. Done with gloves at the grade, would be a bit harder without, and may require more skin that you are willing to give. FA: Joel Wilson, 2019 | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths The Beanstalk Boulder | |||||
Project 1
The steep overhang 6m left of The Beanstalk is marked by a thin seam, followed by a necky headwall high above a back breaking boulder. Will go, but it will be hard and terrifying. | |||||
Project 2
The thin, high seam 3m left of The Beanstalk may be climbable. | |||||
V5 | ★★ The Beanstalk
The all too obvious seam up the west face. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
V4 | ★ Ant Man
Just right of the corridor (in front of a tree) are some vertical seams dropping down from the top of the boulder. Climb them from a stand start. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
V5 | ★ Tweedle Dee
Start just right of Tweedle Dum, head left and up to the high rails and top out. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
V5 | ★★ Tweedle Dum
From a stand start just left of the tree in the middle of the face, climb the vertical seams on side pulls. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
V7 | ★★ Jumping Jack
Just right of the tree in the middle of the face. From the edge and side pull, climb the seam above. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
V3 | ★ Spinal Tap
Stand start above a covered hole at the right end of the face. Climb the short face above. FA: Oliver Miller | 4m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Alchemy Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Alchemy
FA: Trent Searcy | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Blockhead Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Blockhead
Doesn't look like much but packs in some hard technical climbing. From a desperate sit start off side pulls climb the boulders nose past increasingly sloping holds. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Ceramics Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★★ Red Bellied Black
Our advice would be not to make this your first V2. The easy line up the middle of the face 2m right of the tree, finishing just left of the crack at top. FA: Oliver Miller | 5m | |||
V5 | ★★ Ceramics
Stand start on large jugs on face and move up through side pulls and crimps to a committing crux high off the ground. Rent a spotter or 3. FA: Oliver Miller | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Copperhead
Start on obvious chalked rail (half a metre right of Ceramics) and work your way up the arête to a committing few moves up high. FA: Oliver Miller | 5m | |||
V3 | Broken China
The slab L of the tree up the back of the Ceramics boulder. Start just at the loose looking flake down low. FA: Matt Brooks, 8 Mar | 4m | |||
V1 | Fragile things
The R arete of the back of the Ceramics boulder, R of the tree, 3m of Broken China. Worth a pad or two to fill the landing. | 4m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Mars Attacks Boulder | |||||
V8 | Fireline
In the cleft right of Mars Attacks is a diagonal pencil seam. Climb the seam from a stand start via several desperate moves - watch your back. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
V8 | ★★ Mars Attacks
Climbs the blunt prow of the spaceship boulder from a sit start. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths First Blood | |||||
V9 | ★★ Second Blood
The line in the print guide, which is not how Arnie climbed First Blood. Start as for FB but shoulder up out of the flake to crap then better sloper pockets in seam to regain upper flake. Has been claimed at V11 by someone amply qualified but has settled at V9. | ||||
V11 | ★★★ First Blood
Sit start on small side pull edges then up with difficulty compressing heinous slopers on the awesome prow/arete (slightly left of line in printed guide) FA: Simon Weill | ||||
V12 | ★★★ Silver Platter
Just left of the right end of the boulder is a scaly purple streak. Climb dimples to the shallow pocket, from where you make a big move left, finishing up the scoop. | ||||
V5 | ★★ Venus In Fur
Just another high quality, high and mighty, terrifying highball. 3m above the main track is a high purple jug. From this climb the slab and seam above. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
V8 | ★ S&M Arete
The blunt arete on the track with a dihedral corner is climb from a stand start off a flat top jug. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
V2 | Cilice
Left of S&M Arete is an easy runnel that is climbed from a stand start. | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Rick & Morty Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Helluva Miller
Climb the juggy face right of arete from a sit. | 3m | |||
V8 | ★★ Rick & Morty
The right arete doesn't look hard at first blush, but closer inspection reveals few holds. From a stand start balance up to a relenting finish. FA: Oliver Miller | 4m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Bath Shark | |||||
V6 | ★ Layer Cake
Stand start just right of tree, finishing via a desperate mantel. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
V7 | ★★ Shower Snake
From the same start as Bath Shark, climb left and up to a hard mantel. FA: Jimmy Campbell | ||||
V8 | ★★ Bath Shark
Short and punchy. From a sit start on slopey edge and side pull, follow the prominent seam to a slabby exit. FA: Simon Weill | ||||
V6 | ★★ Twin Fin
Climbs the right arete. Start on the faux tufa and follow the vertical seams up the blunt arete to top out. FA: Simon Weill | ||||
V3 | Slabtastic
The slab on the back (just right of the arete) may need a bit of a clean before you wobble up it. FA: Simon Weill | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Bakelite Concept | |||||
V11 | ★★★ The Bakelite Concept
The beautiful cracked face is deceptively hard. From the stand start climb the face past a very hard deadpoint. FA: Simon Weill | ||||
V6 | ★★ Plastic Facts
From the start holds of TBC, climb the diagonal rightwards. FA: Oliver Miller | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Eye Of The Tiger
Good warm up. Sit start on low jugs down and right of the start of TBC. Climb up and right. FA: Braeden Hyland | 3m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Bear Necessities Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ Baloo
Sit start on crimps, head left and up through gaston and crimp to a high top out. FA: Callum Mather | 6m | |||
★★ Bear Necessities Project
Sit start on crimps, head right and up via very hard and shouldery moves. | 6m | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Courtyard Boulders | |||||
V0 | ★ Duck's Nuts
Start on the chalked crack just to the right of the V3. Head straight up. | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ Bee's Knees
Sit-start on sloping rail. Trend up and right using slopers and eventually jugs. | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ Cat's Meow
Tricky start, eases as you go. From a sit start on the finger jug, climb up the juggy wall. | 6m | |||
V2 | ★ Running Commentary
Sit start as per the V1, then head up and left to top out. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015 | 6m | |||
V3 | ★ Running Commentary Direct
Sit start with chalked-up LH pocket and RH gaston. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015 | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ Rowey's Traverse
Bridge between the boulders to establish feet on the rail for v5 problem and the larger boulder. Use the big holds along the crack to traverse the boulder and finish on the V0 at the other end. Finish is the hardest part. FA: Jayden Andrea, 1 Nov 2015 | 2m | |||
V5 | ★★ Sockdolager
Sit start on low flakey rail, pull up onto large flat rail and make tricky move left to sloper and top out. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ You Beaut
Sit start as with other problem on boulder then head left, Dyno to good crimp, delicate top out. | 3m | |||
V6 | ★ Nautilus
Climb You Beaut to the crimp. Then make a big span left to the arete. Match and hold the swing before swarming around the arete to finish up the slab. FA: Peter Reynolds, 18 Dec 2017 | ||||
V6 | ★ Tsunami
On the back side of the boulder (left of where the 2 boulders rest against each other), sit start on the flat hold, up to slopers and short face. FA: Olliver Miller | ||||
V1 | ★ Crack
Located on the backside of the larger boulder, near where the two boulders touch. Sit start the left crack. | 5m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Diagonal Laneway Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★★ Diagonal Laneway
Great climbing on a solid line. Sit start on the jug at the bottom of the rising diagonal cleft, which is followed rightward to top out on the far right of the boulder. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ The Lannan Express
Start as for easy lane. RH to sidepull just above start jug, wind up and hit the diagonal. Finish up left. 1 mover. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Easy Lane
The easy arete is climbed from a sit. | 3m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Immersion Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Diversion
Techy bridging that follows seams up the groove to the left of Immersion. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
V9 | ★★★ Immersion
On the east side of the boulder (facing downstream) is a blunt arete. From a sit start (the stand is a very good V8 in its own right) climb the edges right of the seam. Long moves lead to a tricky conclusion. Try not to ping off into the creek. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
V8 | ★★★ Submersion
Start on flat jug, use the seam to stand up and hop for a slopey hold. Topout is tall and mossy but easy. FA: Callum Mather | ||||
V4 | Death By Drowning
High and dangerous. On the back side is a short slab that leads to a sickle crack. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Silver Linings Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Silver Linings
Sit start. Left hand and right hand on lower flake (somewhat hugging the boulder). Bump up left hand, heel hook right leg. Bump up right hand, heel hook left leg, then make your way up the boulder. FA: Alvin Khoo, 15 Oct 2014 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★ Silver Linings (Right Variant)
Start as for "Silver Linings" before traversing rightward and up slopers and jugs. FA: Jamie, Apr 2023 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★ Every Cloud
Sit start around R of SL on an obvious positive edge. Up L on the slopes and side pulls. FA: Matt Brooks, 5 Mar | 3m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Stoplight Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Problem Banana
1 metre left of Stoplight Arete, sit start in crack and layback up corner. Fun. FA: Jimmy | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Stoplight Arete Left Variant
Start as for Stoplight Arete but bust out left via under clings and up face. FA: Jimmy | 5m | |||
V10 | ★★★ Stoplight Arete
Sit start/crouched on slopey edges and up pinching up the arete. FA: Oliver Miller | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★★ And Then There Was Red
Classic. Stand start on small crimp edges, move left into corner and make a committing few moves up to large holds to top out. | 4m | |||
Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Humping An Orca | |||||
V5 | Humping An Orca
Balance up the slab. FA: Ollie Tobias Bugg | ||||
Northern Wonderland Range Mackeys Peak | |||||
25 | ★★ St Elmo's Fur
The walking track hits the cliff at about the LH end of the main East face. Follow the track to a steep wall about 20m before the cliff ends. There is an overhanging line with bolts heading to a rap station (a couple extra bail biners or mallions would improve the anchor slightly) FA: Mike Law, Stephen Hamilton & Peter Woolford, 1992 | 18m, 7 | |||
11 | Jagger
THe first pitch is quite dramatic for the grade but the second is rubbish. Start: Initialled line at the LH end of the cliff, the initial is 8m up, at the first ledge [about 250m R of StEF]. This is the L one of a series of cliff splitting lines.
FA: Derek Lord & Chris baxter [alt], 1967 | 74m, 2 | |||
16 | Second Choice
Looks a bit pointless. From 18m up 'Jagger' go R into finger crack. Up this for 5m to overhang. Step R, go over overhang then back L to finish up 'Jagger' FA: Carl karancsay, Trevor Fiske & Gerald Gierer, 1986 | 30m | |||
15 | Rimbaud
Start: Crack 10m R of 'Jagger'. Originally soloed by Phillip Stranger and graded 9. Some rotten rock and a large loose chockstone on P1.
FA: Phillip Stranger, 1967 | 53m, 2 | |||
16 | ★★ The Righteous
An old long forgotten classic. Good fun and a good line. Start: 'Steep' corner 3m R of 'Rimbaud'.
FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst [alt], 1967 | 43m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Fiddler
Not bad. Start: 60m R of TR is a flake crack with an overhanging start.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Bruno Zielke [alt], 1969 | 62m, 2 | |||
19 R | Fiddler Direct Finish
Looks bold and scary. 2a] R 2m from shallow scoop on 'Fiddler' then up and L 5m to easier ground. Up. FA: Peter Treby & David Webb, 1984 | 25m | |||
14 | The Trog
This is the L hand of 4 cliff splitting chimney lines seen clearly from Halls Gap. Supposedly once popular it is now rather dirty and neglected. Despite this the climbing is quite interesting, steep and varied. Start: 5m R of 'Fiddler', a chimney corner.
FA: Derek Lord & Chris Baxter, 1967 | 68m, 2 | |||
15 | The Aphrodisiac
Not bad old fashioned chimney and crack struggle, if you like that kind of thing. Start: Major crack line 12m R of 'The Trog'. Seems to have been fairly recently initialled [2010]
FA: Phillip Stranger & Daryl Carr [alt], 1967 | 60m, 2 | |||
11 | ★ Psychotic Reaction
Major initialled line 8m R of TA.
Another Phillip Stranger solo first ascent. FA: Phillip Stranger solo, 1967 | 46m, 2 | |||
11 | ★ Manolete
A cool chimney which gives a fun lower grade adventure - good for a hot day. 5m R of PR.
FA: Phillip Stranger [solo], 1967 | 46m, 3 | |||
24 | ★ The Force, Jeremy, Use the Force
Start: 35m R of Manolette. There is a prominent L leaning diagonal crack high up below capping ceiling.
FA: Jeremy Boreham & Kevin Lindorff [alt], 1994 | 65m, 2 | |||
22 | ★ Peccadillos
An attractive variation on The Force etc Up as for TFJUTF then continue up wall on R past 2 FH to belay as for TFJUTF. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1994 | 35m | |||
19 | Nemesis
Used to be considered a classic, but seems to have got a lot more lichenous over the years. Surprisingly steep. The first 2 pitches can be run together and there are abseil chains at the top of them. Start: Initialled line 30m R of The Force etc.
FA: Roger Caffin, Clive Parker [var & with unknown amounts of aid], 1967 | 55m, 3 |