A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Campbell Gome Matt Brooks ACAV chris Andreas Aachen Brendan Heywood Philip Armstrong Lee Cujes Fil Kindblad Alister Robertson
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1.
Clicke Wall
36 in Crag
- 1.1. Guernica Block 9 in Cliff
- 1.2. Clicke Wall 27 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Clicke Wall 36 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.891504, 142.381042
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
access issues
This grey compact wall is on the 'To be Reviewed' list… although there's some confusion as Clicke area was a "Designated" area in the Draft plan; but isn't mentioned at all in the Final GGLMP.
ethic
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
1.1. Guernica Block 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
description
An amazing pillar that has sheared off 'Clicke Wall' leaving a giant chasm. There are newer routes on the orange wall to the left of the 'Guernica Block' and routes up the block itself. The only way to the summit is via one of these routes. The rock quality ranges from very poor (Guernica) to bullet hard (Slippety Slope). There is a good cave to shelter in just right of 'Genetic Sandbag'.
approach
Walk around right from 'Orange Blossom Wall' for 20m, squeezing amongst the many chalked up boulders (The excellent 'Andersens' Bouldering Field is located right at the base of this cliff - look out for the sound of falling punks). The crag gets morning sun but should be shady after midday.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Wedge Tail
Nice shady crack climbing. A very obvious trad corner that just needed a bolt to get started. Start: Starts up on high ledge (scramble up easy stuff 10m left of Guernica). FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 22 | 13m, 1 | |||
2 |
★ Slippety Slope
Nigh jugs exist and surprisingly sustained. Start: Starts 6m left of 'Guernica', and 2m left of offwidth. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 24 | 17m, 5 | |||
3 |
Decay
Sandy wide crack connects into hard sport route. Start: Starts 2m right of 'Slippety Slope'. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 24 R | 18m, 4 | |||
4 |
Guernica
Sandy and runout. A real adventure! Start: Takes the south eastern arete of the block with a very exciting finish. Protection is pretty crap most of the way up. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Philip Armstrong, 1978 | 16 R | 30m | |||
5 |
★ Weebling
You either love it or hate it. Start: Climbs the blank face right of 'Guernica' with several BR's. FFA: Unknown, 2000 | 21 | 25m | |||
6 |
Weebling Direct Finish
Totally desperate. Start: Instead of bailing off to the left, continue up the very thin face past a few more BR's. Unrepeated? FA: Bruce Dowrick, 1987 | 24 | 10m | |||
7 |
★★ That Fearful Vortex
A simply stunning arete with a real hard grit feel. Recently retrobolted, which removed the once vital RP above the 2nd bolt. Start: This is the square cut prow 10m right of 'Guernica'. FA: Dave Vass, 1986 | 25 R | 25m, 4 | |||
8 |
Where the Woozle Wasn't
A good line which unfortunately doesn't live up to expectations due to soft rock. Start: Takes the obvious broken crack that splits the north face of the 'Guernica Block' about 5m right of 'That Fearful Vortex'. Triples of hand and fist crack sized cams are useful. Rap off manky sling below mega choss. FA: Philip Armstrong & Kevin Lindorff, 1978 | 18 | 35m | |||
9 |
★★ Genetic Sandbag
Curving s-crack which is hidden behind a tree. Not really climbable wihout tying the tree back out of the way! Start: Follow the crack 5m right of Where The Woozle Wasn't to the break, then bop up and left to the belay in the cave on WTWW. Rap off manky sling. FA: Brian Alder, Dave Vass & Bruce Dowick, 1986 | 22 | 15m |
1.2. Clicke Wall 27 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
description
Vertical sandstone wall climbing which is closer in feel to the Blue Mountains than a typical 'Grampians' crag. Expect crimpers, flakes and the occasional bolt.
This cliff is one of those secrets that is hidden by being in full view. Blatantly obvious from the walk up Flat Rock, it is the subject of one of the great misprints in climbing history. 'Surely' the original climb was meant to be called Cliche Crack but was misprinted as Clicke Crack! An alternative explanation is that the name was meant to be a play on clique. Given the number of typos in the Gledhill Guide (the most delicious of which was "Christ Dewhirst"), "Cliche Crack" is most likely.
approach
Clicke Wall is the steep grey wall with a couple of black streaks and a big diagonal crack that dominates the skyline from the foot of the Flat Rock track. The easiest approach is to cut across Flat Rock and scramble up just left of 'The Short Orange Corner' and keep going across slabs towards the diagonal crack and corner that mark the right end of the wall. The last 50 metres of the approach can be quite scrubby if you hit the wrong spot. It's best to go up the slabs until above the diagonal and cut back down to the foot of it.
The diagonal crack is the eponymous 'Clicke Crack' and the corner just right of it is 'Piracy'. The other climbs can be found by heading left along a ledge system from the base of 'Clicke Crack', this is mostly just walking but becomes an exposed traverse beneath the arete of 'One Bed to the Left', so take care.
Descent involves scarily soloing down an "easy" face around right of 'Piracy' and then traversing around left to the foot of 'Piracy', or a 25 metre abseil down 'Slave Driver Saliva'. A new (Aug 09) rap anchor has been installed above 'Kurosawa', and serves the handful of routes on either side finishing at this ledge.
The climbs are in the sun from midday, are exposed to the dominant west wind, and are described from right to left.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Clinophobia
Start 11m left of Dys Funk Shin. Easily up to first RB then on to second RB heading straight up, following line of least resistance, finishing directly above first RB at DRB rap anchor on ledge. 5 RBs FFA: Ramon Francis, Dale Rankin & Joseph O'Connell, 2001 | 22 | 30m, 5 | |||||
2 |
★ Star Jumps Aren’t Dancing
Start 8m left of Dys Funk Shin. 5 RBs & trad gear to finish at DRB rap anchor just below ledge. Possibly a bit harder for shorties. Rap-anchor on ledge. FA: Ramon Francis, Brendon Abernethy & Joseph O’Connell, 2001 | 23 | 30m, 5 | |||||
3 |
★ Dys Funk Shin
Start 5m left of Jurassic Park at RB. Follow faint grey water streak past second RB. Passing 3 FHs Streak turns black near top. Rap-anchor on ledge FA: Ramon Francis & Joseph O'Connell, 2001 | 21 | 28m, 5 | |||||
4 |
★ Dinotopia
A left hand variant to 'Jurassic Park'. Follow that climbs dog-leg crack until it forks. Follow the left hand crack system which curves left then right, then finish up the headwall via a black streak directly up the start of the climb. A big wire in a hole between two hand holds protects the final headwall. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1993 | 18 | 35m | |||||
5 |
★ Jurassic Park
Excellent fun climbing despite its daunting appearance. Start: Up the dog leg crack left of 'A Long Way From Verona'. Continue straight up over a bulge then traverse up right 4m until a vertical weakness-come-crack leads to the top. FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 1993 | 17 | 35m | |||||
6 |
★★ A Long Way From Verona
Wonderful wall climbing with a fair bit of air below your feet on several sections. Very Blue Mountains. Start: Start 5m left of 'Giblets' as a short flake/corner. FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 1993 | 19 | 25m | |||||
7 |
Slave Driver Saliva
A run-out excursion that will probably be more popular as a top-roping problem. Start: Start a couple of metres right of 'A Long Way From Verona'. FA: Gordon Poultney, Simon Mentz & Donna Bridge, 1996 | 26 | 25m | |||||
8 |
★★ Giblets
Finger/hand crack 7m left of Close To The Bone. When the crack finishes, traverse right quite a way (toward Close To The Bone) before tackling a short wall above to a ledge then eventually join Close To The Bone to the top. FA: Kim Carrigan & Kieran Loughran, 1982 | 20 | 30m | |||||
9 |
★★ Giblets to Chaos
Links Giblets into Order Through Chaos. Linkup! | 22 | 15m, 3 | |||||
10 |
★ Order Through Chaos
Put up by Corrine Gwynther FA: Corrine Saunders (nee Gynther), 2000 | 26 | 25m, 5 | |||||
11 |
★★ Close to the Bone
Excellent splitter finger-crack. Start: Starts 24m left of 'Clicke Crack'. FA: Kim Carrigan & Kieran Loughran, 1982 | 23 | 25m | |||||
12 |
★ Short Fuse
A good short, sustained route. Start: Starts about 4 or 5 metres right of Close To The Bone. FA: Kenji Iiyama & Kisho Takamori, 1988 | 23 | 12m | |||||
13 |
Ran
Not quite as sustained, but has a very thin crux. A little scary. Start: Start at the flake about 3m right of 'Short Fuse'. Up the flake to a BR, move across left into a continuation flake. A reachy move brings the ledge to hand. Rap off. FA: Scott Camps, Simon Kemp, Kisho Takamori & Kenji Iiyama, 1988 | 23 R | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 |
★ Kurosawa
Fine climbing on small holds. Deceptively steep. Start: Start as for RAN, it was going to have an independent start but a bit snapped off (hence the extraneous bolt). FA: Scott Camps, Simon Kemp & Alister Mark, 1988 | 25 | 18m | |||||
15 |
★★★ One Bed to the Left
Outstanding arete with some very technical moves. Rebolted 2011 (thank goodness). Start: 10m L of 'Clicke Crack' is the scarily exposed traverse which leads left to the main section 'Clicke Wall'. Start just L of the scary bit, under the L side of the obvious short arete. FA: Dave Jones. Bolted & attempted by Scott Camps., 1997 | 27 | 18m, 4 | |||||
16 |
★ Clicke Crack
"A most impressive crack which has been climbed by a very dubious mean. It will undoubtably be clibmed free in the future...". Ancient Gledhillian text. This is the climb that lends its name to this line of cliff. It takes the wide jagged crack which can be so easily seen from Flat Rock. Start: Starts on the far right edge of the Clicke Cliff. FFA: Kim Carrigan & Andrew Thompson FA: Roger Caffin (aid), 1986 | 19 | 21m | |||||
17 |
Piracy
M2 11. A silly climb. Climb the corner immediatly right of 'Clicke Crack' to the roof, aid left to the arete and finish up 'Clicke Crack'. Start: Starts just right of the obvious splitter 'Clicke Crack'. FA: Roger Caffin, 1966 | 11 M2 | 24m, 2 | |||||
18 |
Piracy Direct Finish
Makes a pleasant little climb. From below the overhang move right and continue to the top. FA: Dick Semenow (?????), 1972 | 7 | 25m | |||||
19 |
Attila
The 'obvious' roof and corner about 30m right of 'Clicke Crack' and behind the large pine tree.
FA: Richard Rodd & Charles Gunst (alt leads), 1974 | 10 M3 | 35m, 2 | |||||
20 |
Attila Variant Start
Climbs the slab to the base of the scrubby chimney 5m right of 'Attila'. Traverse left on the rotten juggy wall into the corner and finish as for pitch one of 'Attila'. FA: Robyn Farrell, 1974 | 8 | 25m | |||||
21 | The Descent | 3 | 20m | |||||
22 | Our House, In The Middle Of The Street | M3 | 20m | |||||
23 | Pink Elephants Next Door | 20 | 22m | |||||
24 | Genuine Wage Overhang | 19 | 30m | |||||
25 |
Stepping Stones
Steeper and meatier than appearances suggest. Start at the pine tree near the base of 'Attila'. Up onto boulder, step onto wall then diagonally right up ramp for 3-4m to prominent steep juggy wall. Straight up wall veering gradually right to finish centrally. FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood, 1997 | 11 | 30m | |||||
26 |
Care Factor: Kelvin
Start from base of Piracy's corner (i.e. a few metres right of the start to 'Clicke Crack'. By the way, why did this most obvious of obvious routes need to be chisel-initialled in the first place?!) Head up diagonally right to blunt arete. Follow this to top. Just a climb - care factor? Rap off boulders, or take the standard death route descent down the wall beside 'Piracy'. FA: Ben Clayton & Nic Chapman, 1997 | 8 | 20m | |||||
27 |
Open Project
The line on 'Clicke Wall' where it meets the chimney with the 'Guernica' block. Probably about 24 and needs a glue-in bolt or two at the crux. | 24 | 20m |