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Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has issued the following advice regarding rock climbing in Gariwerd/Grampians (updated February 2022): https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

See warning details and discuss

Created 8 weeks ago

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Access issues inherited from Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has issued the following advice regarding rock climbing in Gariwerd/Grampians (updated February 2022): https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Starts about 3metres left of 'Hot Henry' on the right hand side of big incut ledge. Sit start with a left flat top hold and a right undercling, top out straight up via the 2 crimps.

FA: Adenjn, 28 Jan 2013

Starts the same as 'Gobby and the CrayJ'. Traverse right through some smallish holds then topping out using some decent holds in the seam.

FA: Adenjn, 28 Jan 2013

Start the same as 'Lukewarm Hank' but instead of topping out continue climbing right through some big moves and top out in the seam left of 'Hot Henry's' Finish.

FA: 28 Jan 2013

Climbs the low barrel roof 20m before the line of Old Henry's. Sit-start and using painful pockets, head leftwards diagonally up the wall with ever-stretched out feet. Aim for the slopey gaston and topout shortly thereafter. Rumored to be soft at the grade.

Sit-start at the base of the black streak matching on a big sloper. A dynamic move leads to the good horizontal, then a long RH lock move and onwards up the crimpy face. Highball and a tad committing above a very bad landing, but absolutely classic. Originally given V6 by coming in from the right using a LH gaston (crux) but most people ignore this due to the proximity of the ground (it's hard to stay off it!)

Sit start at back of the cave and climb left around the to finish as for two sleeps

Classic central problem through the cave.

Sit start for Two Sleeps and climb the right side of the cave to an easier exit out right of the roof.

Start as james but from flat edge dyno directly out to slopey lip and mantle.

The arete leading to a mantle on the leftside of the cave. Start matching on the block, then head up via a 'rib' feature, finishing via a mantle topout. An easier (V0) version is to head left at the sloper (thereby missing out the rib feature).

Crawl into the dark cave left of 'Passion' and sit-start on the right matching a big sloper. Traverse left via a massive iron-cross move (hence the name) and finish on the left.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

The left most line on the main face. Sit start on good slanting holds and climb the right trending diagonal weakness to mantle over the huge lip.

Start as for 'Passion' and then from the crimps of that problem head right via two more crimps (or pocket) to gain the start of 'Fashion'. Finish up this.

RH right-trending crack weakness. Starts on the low jugs and climbs up the weakness to a crux move reaching up for a gaston pocket. Was massively overgraded at V5 for a long time.

Low sit-start on jugs to a big move for a bad sloper. Crux is gaining the sharp 3-finger pocket, one way or another.

A bum-dragging traverse that looks great but is obviously spoilt by the proximity of the ground (at least you won't hurt yourself!) Traverse from the start of 'Bitch Slap' rightwards all the way to the arete, and topout via a sloper and better lip holds.

Start as for 'Passion' then traverse all the way across the crux of Klapusterperle, through the start of 'Bitch Slap' and finish as for 'Winterkirsch'. Has also been done by finishing up 'Bitch Slap' (Sharik Walker) at no change in grade.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Sit-start around the corner from the main wall at the large jug. Straight up to a RH sidepull, then traverse left across the slopey lip to a very tricky Fontainebleau-like mantle. Can also be done by going left into the finish of 'Winterkirsch' prior to gaining the lip, followed by the mantle. V7 if you do it this way.

Sit start on obvious edge behind old tree. Make a huge move rightt then traverse sloped ledge and head up obvious weakness.

As for the Grampians Boulder Guide 2016 Edition.

Start at bottom of first black streak on jugs, climb up through crimps to finish on good holds

FA: Riccardo Toto Monetta

Follow the orange streak to the left of the crack to a juggy arete. Fun low grade highball.

FFA: Neil Jenman, 22 Sep 2018

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