Cut Lunch Walls

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 3 months ago




Some popular sport routes on a small Taipanesque wall, and some not so popular trad lines. This is a cliff of wide variety and offers several days worth of action for the mid grade 20’s climber. A stick-clip is useful for the routes on the upper wall.

Access issues inherited from Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice:


960m from carpark. 36.53663s, 142.23.178e.

Keep following the base of the cliff line south west from White Wall past acres of blank rock for 300m until the cliff starts to breaks down. At the first opportunity scramble up the small wall on the right. There should be a small rock cairn halfway up this 6m wall which shows the way. If you miss this step-up you will end up stumbling around at the base of a short poxy cliff cursing the guidebook authors. At the time of this guidebook research there is a small man-made rock wall and sticks blocking the wrong path. Once above this short wall you will see a high orange wall, this is Upper Cut Lunch Wall where most of the sport routes are. Below and to the right of this wall are several of the trad routes.

Routes from 1-9 are on Lower Cut Lunch Wall. Routes from 10-18 are on Upper Cut Lunch Wall. Routes described from right to left. This wall gets full sun until about 1pm. It is cool and breezy and shady in the afternoon.

Descent notes

Rap anchors located above 'Raindancer' and 'Twisted Horizons'.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing


View historical timeline

In the late 1980’s intrepid explorer Dave Vass started things rolling with the fine corner of 'The Snatch' (23). A year later Jon Bassindale dragged a few fellow Poms up the impressive and bold 'Romeo is Bleeding' (23) - which is unfortunately the only feasible line up the full height of the superb blank orange wall dominating the left side of the crag. The cliff remained un-loved for more than ten years until sport climbers began to notice the lovely orange rock high up on the ledge above the grey jugs. Kent Paterson and Julian Saunders both inspected the wall but abandoned first ascent attempts because of the seemingly bad access. This didn’t stop Neil Monteith and Nick McKinnon from appearing in 2001 and cleaning up a swag of quality sport routes and establishing an easy way up to the ledge. The addition of a few gnarly trad routes in the last few years has filled in the gaps.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Start: Start about 50m right of 'The Snatch' below a buttress with an 'obvious' undercling flake.

  1. 40m (18) Up to flake then up right onto top of buttress, then easy slab.

  2. 20m (18) Shift belay to base of the corner up right, then climb corner.

FA: James McIntosh & Mick Jennings (alt), 1998

A good route up a major water streak on far right end of crag 7m right of 'The Snatch' below a broken easy corner.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2001

Left facing corner in behind the trees and 2m left of 'Three Course Meal'. It's mostly fused and hard! Stay off until complete.

Set by adam demmert, 2012

More like a Lindorff grade 20! Starting as for The Snatch, but climb straight up to the roof crack. Grab the perfect thread hold and thrash leftwards using every traditional trick in the book to gain the lip. Up the juggy offwidth to ledge and finish up left wall.

FA: Nick McKinnon & Neil Monteith, 2001

Nails hard reach crux which is way out of keeping with the rest of this route. Superb orange left facing corner on the right side of Lower 'Cut Lunch Walls'. Another good find by Dave Vass.

Start: The start is marked.

FA: Dave Vass & John Gallstone, 1988

Awkward and not very inspiring. Start 8m left of 'The Snatch' below steep rounded arête.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Wust, 1988

The easy way to the Upper Cut Lunch Wall's fabulous sport routes. In reality its a four move boulder problem off the deck then grade 5 climbing from then on. Starts on small rock about 10m left of the Salad Abuse arête.

FA: Gay Welders Union (solo), 2001

In memory of the controversial letter writer from the mid 00s. Needs a couple of bolts as it was climbed on pre-placed wires. Start 8m right of 'Raindancer' below short steep corner.

FA: Robin Holmes & Steve Chapman, 2004

Ring bolted sport route climbing the face just right of arete. This is the best way to get to the Upper 'Cut Lunch Walls' ledge. Tricky start up left facing flake, then easier grey wall to top.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 18 Apr 2011

"I really felt like a proper climber that day" Jon Bassindale. Amazingly both pitches of this route were claimed as new routes years later.

Start: Starts as for 'Raindancer' at the arete with the big trench below.

  1. 20m (18) Lean across the zawn, clip first bolt on Randancer and climb the overhanging arête to the terrace on trad. In 1992 Peter Stebbins placed the now bent and rusted BR and claimed the pitch as Salad Abuse (20).

  2. 40m (22) Bring RP's and expect runouts. Walk to the left end of the terrace and drop down to belay on the right of the big red wall. Traverse left to a big mushroom on a ledge. Up and slightly right, then head for the big hanging corner crack and thence the top. In 1997 Goshen Watts repeated the route thinking he was doing a new climb, calling it Lucky Jesus 'Houdini' Rex (23).

FA: Jon Bassindale, Roland Foster & Martin Scheel, 1989

FHs up wall left of arete. Swing left on flake (ring bolt) then up very juggy wall which thins to a big crux move. At the top of the pillar head right to double ring anchor (used as descent anchor for Upper Cut Lunch Wall).

FA: Marcel Geelen, Jacquie Lee, Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2001

Watch for the angry bat that lives in a pocket near the top! Up Raindancer to the RB. Step left and easily up the corner keeping an eye out for the biting pockets. Belay below Malcolm's Crack on trad. Rap off tree to descend.

FA: Neil Monteith Kent Paterson, 2004

Starts down in the pit below Bat in A Hole. Hard pocket pulling through roof.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2011

Roof pockets through a roof starting down in in the pit. Traverse left along flake to bouldery finish.

A good route for a belay slave. Soloed on first ascent due to impatience for a belay! Hard to locate for first timers. Thin face with three rings on east facing side of chasm 10m down and to the right of The Big Payback. Bridging against the back wall up high is to be avoided. Best way to approach is to climb the first half of Access Route. Lower off last RB or belay on ledge above on trad.

FA: Neil Monteith (solo), 2001

A funky set of moves on incredible quality rock. Starts at the little alcove on the far right side of the orange Upper Cut Lunch Wall ledge.

FA: Nick McKinnon & Neil Monteith, 2001

Line of ringbolts starting 2m left of 'The Big Payback'. Finishes up 'On My Own'.

Set by @nmonteith, 2004

FFA: Byam Keil, 4 Jun 2017

Links start of Tender Hooks into finish of Smörgåsbord. Offers sustained pumpy pleasure on immaculate orange rock.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

Good training for 'Taipan'. One of the bolts pulled out after Neil had dogged his way up this! It has since been replaced. Central rib feature with small rooflet down low about 5m left of 'The Big Payback'.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2001

Superb climbing on perfect rock which is slightly spoilt by the ledge midway up. Good training for 'Taipan'. The scene of a few tantrums as the moves are not obvious. Start slightly left of 'Tender Hooks'.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2001

Good easy climbing on upper wall, unfortunately broken up by a ledge.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2016

Big features and good exposure. Starts just left of small gumtree on ledge about 5m left of 'Wired'.

FA: Neil Monteith & Marcel Geelen, 2001

2001 was a glorious time to work in the postal service. FHs up wall 3m left of 'Twisted Horizons'. Just an average filler route. Be careful of loose rock.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2001

Bouldery climbing on orange scoops. Please read the Bible to continuous improvement.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2016

He's good at climbing them, but hopeless at naming them! The finger crack with a bulge down low on the far left end of Upper Cut Lunch Walls to anchor.

FA: Malcolm Matheson Neil Monteith, 2004


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