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Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Popular but awkward climbing.

Start: Start 5m L of 'The Flying Emu'.

FA: Rob Booth & Jill Gara, 2008

This is one of the easiest sport routes in the 'Grampians' to be partially protected from rain.

Start: Starts below the overhang three metres left of the large chimney chasm to the left of Float Like A 'Butterfly'.

FA: Rob Booth, Michael O'Reilly & Steve Chapman, 2007

Links 'The Flying Emu' into 'Float Like a Butterfly'.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Rob Booth & Steve Chapman, 2007

Sustained steep climbing on big incuts for most of the way. One of the driest routes in the Hollow Mtn area, until the last few metres. One grade harder than 'Sting Like a Bee' and one grade easier than 'Amnesty International'. Start: Furthest left route on the main pocketed wall, with RB's. Watch out for the ledge fall potential up high due to the block on the left.

FA: Steve Chapman, Michael O'Reilly & Rob Booth, 2007

Climb the overhanging sharp crack system, then a great juggy headwall. Stick clip 1st bolt.

superceded by direct. Original wandering line best forgotten

FA: Matt Brooks

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Steve Chapman & Rob Booth, 2007

traverse left from 3 bolt on tyrants past 5 U's to anchor.

FA: kp & hawkman, 2006

One of the best grade 22 sport routes in 'Victoria', even though the start is very close to being a retrobolt of CWT. Seeps heavily in the dead of winter, although the key holds can be dryer than they look. Rebolted and extended 2017

Start: Starts 3m right of 'Sting' Like A Bee on small ledge.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

During or after rain a waterfall tumbles over the cliff directly below the Crankstart Amphitheatre. If it isn't flowing, start climbing! The newer sport routes on either side have effectively retrobolted a fair portion of this route.

Start: Starts a metre to the right of 'The Tyrants Grasp' but on the ground level.

FA: Steve Monks & Chris Peisker, 1988

Just right of waterfall

FA: steve chapman & yerba crew

Starts as league of Nations, Goes into UN, then finishes as good fight direct. Some linkups are pretty lame, but imho this is f#cking ace.

Very bouldery crux section involving a long series of painful pockets.

Start: Ringbolted route 3m right of 'Chinese Water Torture'. Establish in 2001, an ascent by German hardman Andy Hofman grade 8a - 8c as not sure on Aussie grades! Recent ascentionists suggest 32 after repeated attemps by some very strong climbers.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2001

Fantastic boulder sequence to finish off a great route.

FFA: Kent Paterson, 2012

Another fantastic sport route that was once fully trad.

Start 3m left of Amnesty International to a prominent horizontal break, then steeply up a pocketed crack to the final horizontal break. Step right to finish as for Amnesty International.

FA: Steve Monks & Louise Shepherd, 1988

The good fight.

Start: Start 10m right of 'Chinese Water Torture' at the incipient corner.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Steve Monks, 1988

Eat your spinach for the top!

Bloody hard finish which can be done two ways.

Start: Line of FH's up black seam just to the right of 'Amnesty International'.

FA: Matt Brooks

Easy sport arete. The first half was originally climbed on trad (and called No Fixed Gear) and was later accidentally retrobolted and renamed 'Amnesia'.

Start: You can't miss this overbolted slabby arete just right of 'Freedom Fighter'.

FA: All trad ascent of first half by Ray Lassman, Keith Lockwood, Dianne Fermi retrobolted the first pitch (2001) & extension Kent Paterson 2011, 2000

One move wonder up the middle of the pillar.

FA: Matt Brooks

FA: Matt Brooks, 2001

Best of the three finishes, extending the route up the far right arete.

Start: From the half way rap chain on 'Amnesia' head up right through overhang and up right side of pillar past many more FHs.

FA: Dianne Fermio

FA: Dianne Fermio, 2001

Easy choss crack climbing.

Start: Start beneath the right side of the 'Amnesia' Pillar.

  1. 20m (13) Up mossy slab for 5m to roof. Skirt right under this for 3m. Up wide right facing chossy mossy flake to belay on ledge behind pillar.

  2. 25m (13) Up the orange wall to traverse right until able to move up the guano covered pillar. Continue right to jugs and up.

FA: M. Wust & C. Stewart (alt), 1983

Wandery arete and ledge climbing on suss rock.

Start: The arete just right of 'Amnesia'.

  1. 15m (15) Up the right side of the arete, side runner at 5m, to the cave.

  2. 10m (15) Up the flake on the left side of the arete to the top of the pinnacle. Cross over to the main cliff and finish up 'Private Investigations' (a tyrolean traverse should not be required).

FA: James McIntosh & Kevin Lindorff (alts), 1993

Activity

Check out what is happening in Amnesty Wall.