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Description

An amazing pillar that has sheared off 'Clicke Wall' leaving a giant chasm. There are newer routes on the orange wall to the left of the 'Guernica Block' and routes up the block itself. The only way to the summit is via one of these routes. The rock quality ranges from very poor (Guernica) to bullet hard (Slippety Slope). There is a good cave to shelter in just right of 'Genetic Sandbag'.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

Walk around right from 'Orange Blossom Wall' for 20m, squeezing amongst the many chalked up boulders (The excellent 'Andersens' Bouldering Field is located right at the base of this cliff - look out for the sound of falling punks). The crag gets morning sun but should be shady after midday.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Nice shady crack climbing. A very obvious trad corner that just needed a bolt to get started.

Start: Starts up on high ledge (scramble up easy stuff 10m left of Guernica).

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Nigh jugs exist and surprisingly sustained.

Start: Starts 6m left of 'Guernica', and 2m left of offwidth.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Sandy wide crack connects into hard sport route.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Slippety Slope'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Sandy and runout. A real adventure!

Start: Takes the south eastern arete of the block with a very exciting finish. Protection is pretty crap most of the way up.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Philip Armstrong, 1978

You either love it or hate it.

Start: Climbs the blank face right of 'Guernica' with several BR's.

FFA: Unknown, 2000

Totally desperate.

Start: Instead of bailing off to the left, continue up the very thin face past a few more BR's. Unrepeated?

FA: Bruce Dowrick, 1987

A simply stunning arete with a real hard grit feel. Recently retrobolted, which removed the once vital RP above the 2nd bolt.

Start: This is the square cut prow 10m right of 'Guernica'.

FA: Dave Vass, 1986

A good line which unfortunately doesn't live up to expectations due to soft rock.

Start: Takes the obvious broken crack that splits the north face of the 'Guernica Block' about 5m right of 'That Fearful Vortex'. Triples of hand and fist crack sized cams are useful. Rap off manky sling below mega choss.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Kevin Lindorff, 1978

Curving s-crack which is hidden behind a tree. Not really climbable wihout tying the tree back out of the way!

Start: Follow the crack 5m right of Where The Woozle Wasn't to the break, then bop up and left to the belay in the cave on WTWW. Rap off manky sling.

FA: Brian Alder, Dave Vass & Bruce Dowick, 1986

Activity

Check out what is happening in Guernica Block.