ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq
Start from Red rock road (just a little north of Anderson’s road), and head up the sandy 4wd track, when you get to junction in road parallel with red rock road turn right. Approx 70m along this road you will see a rock cairn on the left indicating start of trail. Follow this path uphill (gets steep), finally you will come to a split in the pathway after a fallen tree, head left (turning right heads to Mt Fox). Plenty of cairns along the pathway, steep uphill slog, took roughly 60 minutes.
Walk off/scramble is possible, not the quickest descent to base of cliff. Approx 30 minutes.
Head immediately left at top of climbs and keep going, you will eventually see the descent ramp behind the last cluster of rocks at top of cliff, the vegetation builds up, work your way through this behind the rock cluster and access the top of ramp, staying left on the ramp. Once down, head round right at the boulders and easily through the bush and back to the base of the cliff.
Only other alternative is to rap off using the “bollard” that is described on other sites/guidebooks. It currently (January 2019) had 3 old slings attached to it and a carabiner. I would recommend taking your own if choosing the rappel option, as no idea how long these slings have been there.
Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.
The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
Climber’s Code
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites
Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Keep campsites clean.
Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.
Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.
Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.
Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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