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Eastern Walls

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 15
  • Aka: Spark Walls
19

Seasonality

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Description

The Eastern walls is the line cliffs higher up on the Eastern side of Iskra. It contains climbs from the original guide, and also newer bolted climbs and projects. Routes vary considerably, but there is some great rock to be found, even if the best bits aren't all that long.

Access issues inherited from Iskra Crag

None

Approach

As for Interpretation Walls - follow a flat / easy marked trail from a short 4WD trail a few hundred metres west of the telephone tower. About 15 mins.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Described L to R, the following few climbs face East (at the top of the Eastern Walls), and include the steep, compact wall of Goelro Plan, projects and few trad lines in the recess.

Looks totally worthless, but has an intense section of climbing that's much better than it looks. Up easy ramp just L of chimney, awkward moves around roof into thin slanting crack, which is followed to easier ground. Quite independent of KOFTSW until the last 10m or so.

FA: Goshen Watts & Riley Nicholson, 29 Jul 2017

Crack-line in the recess left of Matt's Corner, start easily up into deep chimney. Then short crack "steeping requires a bit of effort, but it is worth it".

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1986

Subtle corner / seam L of GP Extension. FH's finishes at loweroff (which is ok, but bolts do need replacing). Scamble up start, then all FH's up the line.

FA: matt brooks, 1997

This is the left most bolted route on the main prominent orange buttress and follows an undercut orange corner. Stick clip the first bolt. Undercut start then follow hanging corner with as many tricks as you can muster to hang on to the slopey lay-aways. Finish on ledge at U bolt.

FFA: adam demmert, 2009

CLOSED PROJECT, Adam Demmert - Steep wall above Goelro Plan with 3 bolts to anchor.

Start: Closed project

Closed Project

Start: Awesome position. Starts on the North face of 'Eastern Walls' and traverses left to arête and up awesome position

Start as for FASAFWF and then straight up on very small holds very far apart

Set: Josh Gross

Climb the line 5m L of WR (8m L of major chimney / corner line) and about 15m R of the projects on the blank wall. Finish up R.

FA: 1985

This is the L curving crack in the orange wall 3m L of the corner / chimney line. Follow the line to the ridge.

FA: 1985

FFA: 1986

Finger / corner crack immediately on the R side of the chimney corner.

FA: 1985

Starts across from WR. 3 Rings are a retrobolt.

FA: 1986

This climb is to the R of the previous climb and around the arete. Ascend via the diagonal seam. Rings are almost certainly retrobolts, and unfortunately ruin the character and line of the climb. Subtract a grade. No anchor (walk off R).

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1986

Line about 3-4 R of DO. Awkward moves past the two main ledges to a bolt runner higher up.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1986

The following climbs are to the R of, and above the East face propper, but are a continuation of this cliff. From the smooth wall of Rainbow Warrior, scramble up R to the obvious line of SC (the bolts could possibly be a retrobolt of this route at a lower grade, 23/24). Continue a little up and R to get to the Black Stump climbs.

Great climbing up the obvious bolted layback line on N facing prow at the far RH end, and above the Eastern Walls. DBB on the wall at the top is NOT the top of the climb (23 to this point). Clip anchor, then make committing moves R to hanging rib, and another bolt to the top. Backclimb to anchor. NB: Bolts are likely a retrobolt of the original, which was grade 25 on trad gear, finishing up flake at the top.

FA: Dave Fearnley & Louise Shepherd, 1986

Starts on the RH end of the block that forms the top half of Septic Crank. Up arete, past a bolt runner to the top.

10m L of BTBB on the same wall. Desperate climbing with spaced pro.

FA: Dave Fearnley, 1986

On the East facing block just above and R of SC. Can also be approached from the top of the gully of the 3 Tiers. The slanting crack up the middle of the wall.

FA: Louise Shephard, 1986

Back down on a thin buttress just below the Eastern Walls

Good, but slightly contrived climbing on an independent grey buttress below and N of the Eastern Walls. Up short diagonal crack, then up the nice grey wall, keeping to the L for the best climbing. At the top is a nice surprise mini 2nd pitch (and topping out is a better way to descend).

FA: Goshen Watts & Riley Nicholson, 29 Jul 2017

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