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Description

Nice beginner friendly area. A 15m static rope might be handy to setup belays at the top. See the 1999 Rock guide "Wonderland Range" for full route descriptions until someone can be bothered to write them up here...

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Approach

An easy walk that is no more than 600 metres from the carpark.

Take the track that points to "Lake View Lookout" from The 'Sundial' Car park. After around 300 metres there is a fork in the track. The right hand path takes you to the official "Lakeview Lookout", ignore that. Take the left fork for another 150 metres up timber and stone steps to where you will arrive at the clifftop which has views over Lake Bellfield. The track to the right (south) takes you to the descent gully.

© (jgoding)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Technical thin face climbing. A bit reachy and perhaps add a grade or two if shorter than say 5'9" (175cm)

Start: About 50m to the right of the main wall area (turn R just as you get to the bottom of the descent gully) is a small wall. This route shoots up the middle of this past 4 fixed hangers just left of a crack (climbed by Steve Hamilton & Zoe Foulser at about grade 11).

FA: Joe Goding & Steve Hamilton, 2002

At the L end of the main cliff, just R of cleft/gully. The L arete of the wall with fiddley small pro.

Wall just R of large block and 2m R of Grace. A sort of direct start to The Mentz File with poor protection.

L leaning seam starting 3m R of The Stand.

Steep and strenuous. Juggy crack/weakness 1m R of MF and 2m L of large Eucalypt finishing up and L.

FA: Allan Hope & Bill Andrews, 1987

Juggy face behind eucalypt then corner exiting R to ledge below overhang [possible belay]. R and up steeply. Good clean middle grade corner.

FA: Allan Hope & Bill Andrews, 1987

Up to then up R facing flake crack on wall just R of WHYSL.

An easier fun variant. Up IO17 to the start of the flake corner, hand traverse R to stance on arete. Up arete on amazing holds.

FA: Peter Cody, 2008

Up the middle of the wall.

Consistent at the grade. Easier than it looks. Well protected.

Start: Attractive left facing yellow and grey corner-crack on the right hand side of the main alcove. (about 50m past where the descent gully brings you down if you keep the cliff line on your LHS).

FA: Allan Hope (unseconded), 1987

A pleasant warm up route but the gear is a bit thin in the rounded groove.

Start: Start in the corner a few metres right of Don't Get Me Wrong.

FA: Allan Hope & Bill Andrews, 1987

The crack 7m R of CHH in front of a small gum. L at bulge and up flake to ledge. Finish on R. A fairly artificial grade 19 direct start is possible 2.5m L

Arete 3m R of Octopus. At about 12m go R and up centre of face to ledge. Step R and up. Some suspect rock.

L crack on wall 2m R of SF. 6m corner above tree, traverse L along horizontal, finish up arete. A filthy waste of time.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2009

ISBN: 958733147

With North Gramps, The Black Range, Central Gramps, Halls Gap, Sth East Gramps and the Victoria Range areas covered, you'll have no shortage of inspiration at your disposal. With 800 routes, full colour maps and topos as well as heaps of additional info, this guide will have you sorted.

Author(s): Neil Monteith and Simon Carter

Date: 2015

ISBN: 9780994278401

Neil Monteith and Simon Carter took no time to rest after the release of their 2013 Sport Crags edition and have now release a more comprehensive guide also covering several popular trad and multipitch areas. The guide contains 61 crags and 1200 routes and also includes the likes of Grey Green Walls, Central Buttress, Asses Ears and the popular beginners trad area of Summerday Valley which weren't covered in the Sport only edition. With all the motivating and awe-inspiring photos we've come to expect from Australia's premier climbing photographer Simon Carter, and easy to use layout including access maps and detailed topo's, you won't be left hanging.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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