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Toolondo Waters

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 4

Climbing in this area is not permitted.

4
AU

Seasonality

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Description

A chossy collection of buttresses on the northern slopes of 'Mount Zero' that is easiest approached from the walking track. The only notable thing here is the potential bouldering cave beside 'Toolondo Waters'.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from Mount Zero

It is unknown why all the Mt Zero crags are not permitted.

©

Approach

After passing the 'Descartes' facet, follow the track for another couple of hundred metres into a col before the track goes up again toward the summit. Leave the track and pass through the col to the northern slopes and traverse east (right facing out) across the slope to some scrappy buttresses. Locate the bouldering cave to work out where the climbs are.

Alternatively, the outcrops can be approached from 'Pangaea Walls'. Looking from 'Pangaea Walls', two tiers of cliff are visible 300m to the west on the other side of a scrubby saddle. Most prominent, high on the lower tier, is a clean, hanging corner with obvious water streaks to its right. 'Toolondo Waters' starts below this corner.

© (willmonks)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

It was meant to climb the hanging corner but didn't.

Start: Start well below and R of the hanging corner at a distinctive V-corner, just L of the cave.

FA: Dave Burnett & David Peckham, 1991

A bit of a novelty.

FA: Peckham & Burnett, 1991

Up shallow L-facing corner and slab to dark scoop. Move 5m R to arete and pass upper roof on R.

Start: A small gully 30m R of 'Toolondo Waters' has a black roof to its R. Start 7m R of gully, around the arete.

FA: Burnett & Peckham, 1991

Up to ledge at 8m then through overhang at U-shaped block.

Start: Start 30m R of Wuggies in Love at blocky, hanging chimney.

FA: Peckham, 1991

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Tue 18 Apr
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