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Summary

This very accessible cliff [100m walk in] boasts a handful of good middle grade routes.

Description

A major well travelled track leads from the parking area to the landmark chimney corner. The cliff has obviously been used by abseil groups and some of the climbs appear to be well travelled. However, other climbs had loose blocks at key points which needed clearing, indicating that they were unlikely to have been climbed previously. The cliff is effectively the far right hand end of the West Face of Mt Zero, although it is separated from the rest of the West face by about 200m.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

Approaching the Flat Rock carpark from Summerday Valley turn right and follow the Mt Zero road for 300m to a short sandy track on the right and an obvious cliff less than 100m from the road. Park along the road edge or drive in to a large clearing [often occupied by campers]. One minute walk. Descend easily at either end, although the right hand end is more pleasant.

Routes

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Grade Route

30m left of Big Chimney Corner. The vertical face with obvious horizontal breaks left of the wind blown overhangs and before the cliff becomes overhanging again to the left. Start up the slightly easier angled rock in the middle of the face then up past the horizontals to a narrow ledge below a smooth wall. Step left and up a short crack to a large ledge. Finish up the flake corner.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Kathy Matic & Peter Cody, 19 Mar

10m right of Ambulance Blues and 20m left of Big Chimney Corner. Just right of a section of wind blown overhangs. Leftward up easy rock to a ledge below overhangs. Pull through the overhangs [suspect rock] at the break to get onto a ledge. Up steeply past a short shallow crack and up the headwall.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Kathy Matic & Peter Cody, 19 Mar

10m right of Greater Tuberosity and 10m left of Big Chimney Corner. There is a small left facing flake corner 10m up. Climb up to the base of this corner. Straight up from here, moving left into the shallow water groove at the top.

FA: Peter Cody, Kathy Matic & Philip Armstrong, 19 Mar

Between Big Chimney Corner and Volksgrenadier is a well trodden expanse of easy rock. Up anywhere. FA Unknown

The obvious big line where the track meets the cliff. Up the juggy left wall, near the top step across the chimney to a ledge and finish up a short steep corner. FA Unknown

Varied, steep and enjoyable. Appears to be well travelled. Just around the right arete of Big Chimney Corner an undercut start leads to a steep wall, up this to finish up the short corner above. FA Unknown

Activity

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