Mount Zero Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Mount Zero 39 routes in Area

2 5 6 7

2 Pangaea Walls 5 Mt Zero Summit Cliff 6 Mount Zero West Walls 7 Mt Zero roadside Crag

Summary:

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Seasonality

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.886042, 142.370977

description

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

'Mount Zero' is the northernmost outcrop in The 'Grampians'. Its many outcrops look promising from the road but, in general, that's the best place to stay. 'Sport Crack' and 'Ephemeral Lakes' are of interest to sport climbers and 4 'Cornered' Crag offers reasonable easy climbs. That's about it.

Actually, I lied about staying in the car. The tourist track to the summit of 'Mount Zero' is most enjoyable. At the top, it's heartening to see that some environmentally-conscious people have pinned the summit together so that it doesn't fall apart on us.

Incidentally, 'Mount Zero' was named by Thomas Mitchell in 1836 because the temperature was 32 fahrenheit at dawn on the morning of the ascent. I thought that this was a bit weird but Mitchell was scientifically-minded so his thermometer was marked in Celsius but he had to report to his English masters in Fahrenheit (good German name). Maybe he had a sense of humour, despite his reputation for being pompous.

© (willmonks)

access issues

It is unknown why all the Mt Zero crags are not permitted.

© (willmonks)

approach

Start your journey at the 'Mount Zero' Picnic Area. If you can't find 'Mount Zero', go home.

© (willmonks)

ethic

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

• Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

• Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

• Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

• Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

• Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

• Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

• Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

• Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

• Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

• Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

• Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

inherited from Grampians

1.1. Descartes Edge 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

© (willmonks)

approach

Follow the walking track toward the summit from the Flat Rock carpark. The track passes a steep wall then divides. One arm goes up and passes through a chimney and the other stays low and rejoins the route after the chimney. The two routes rejoin about 10m beyond the chimney where there is a small edge with a nice line.

© (willmonks)

1.2. Pangaea Walls 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -36.884860, 142.373624

description

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

A collection of buttresses on the north-east slopes of 'Mount Zero' with a couple of good hard routes, another couple of reasonable easy climbs and a lot of choss.

Most of the routes here have their starts initialled in case they get lost (no great loss for the most part). This area was burnt-out in early 1996 so is probably heavy with regrowth by now.

© (willmonks)

approach

Either park near the sweeping bend as you proceed from the 'Mount Zero' Picnic Area to the 'Hollow Mountain' quarry and walk towards the lowest of the blocks or follow the summit walking track to just before 'Descartes' and drop down and around.

© (willmonks)

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Rhythmic Pumper Roof left of "Sport Crack". FA: Phil Neville, 2011	29	Sport 10m, 5
2		★ Sport Crack It's unfortunate that this crack was bolted, but it's a bit late to do anything about it now. It almost deserves two stars to con sport-climbers into jamming. Start: On the lowest and east-most crag, there is an overhang with a bolted crack through the ceiling. FA: Andy Pollitt, 1991	26	Sport 10m, 5
3		★★ First Love Kachoong on roids! 50m uphill from Sport Crack is a wall capped by large roofs. This route climbs right edge of wall then swings left across massive roof flake and straight through the guts of the overhang above. 7 RBs. FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2012	23	Sport 15m, 7
4		★ Ephemeral Lakes Good, strenuous route...unless it's an April Fool's joke. FA: Andy Pollitt, 1991	25	Trad 15m
5		Brontosauruses Over Bagdad Leave it for Saddam Hussein. This description is as accurate as a Scud missile. Start: Start L of 'Ephemeral Lakes'. FA: David Burnett & André Geelen, 1991	22	Trad 20m
6		Pied Oystercatcher Head Stabilization The name is much more interesting than the climb. FA: Megan Rush, David Burnett & André Geelen, 1991	11	Trad 12m
7		Snatchasaurus A very short pump. Desperate and worthless. FA: André Geelen, 1991	19	Trad 12m
8		Hop Hop For Cheese You would have to be extremely desperate. FA: André Geelen, 1991	8	Trad 10m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
9		Wusses In The Light Weights Room R-leading diagonal for 2m. Delicately up and follow L line. Start: On the steep, yellow buttress most prominent from the road, just behind (south of) Pangaea Wall. Start 4m L of undercut arete. FA: Michael Gidding, David Burnett, Rohan Schaap & Paul Watson, 1991	17	Trad 15m
10		Do Dinosaurs Dance? Balance R from vegetated chimney for 2m, then up through bulge and up groove. Start: On a compact, bulging buttress below and R of the highest bluff of 'Pangaea Walls'. Start at distinctive pink-stained rock on L, below tiny roof. FA: David Burnett & André Geelen, 1991	17	Trad 18m

1.3. Toolondo Waters 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

A chossy collection of buttresses on the northern slopes of 'Mount Zero' that is easiest approached from the walking track. The only notable thing here is the potential bouldering cave beside 'Toolondo Waters'.

© (willmonks)

approach

After passing the 'Descartes' facet, follow the track for another couple of hundred metres into a col before the track goes up again toward the summit. Leave the track and pass through the col to the northern slopes and traverse east (right facing out) across the slope to some scrappy buttresses. Locate the bouldering cave to work out where the climbs are.

Alternatively, the outcrops can be approached from 'Pangaea Walls'. Looking from 'Pangaea Walls', two tiers of cliff are visible 300m to the west on the other side of a scrubby saddle. Most prominent, high on the lower tier, is a clean, hanging corner with obvious water streaks to its right. 'Toolondo Waters' starts below this corner.

© (willmonks)

1.4. 4 Cornered Crag 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

A supposedly obvious crag situated a little north-east of the summit distinguished by (surprise, surprise!) four corners. This is the most coherent of the crags at 'Mount Zero' and is probably worth a visit.

The cliff faces north and gets full sun. Climbs are described from left to right.

© (willmonks)

approach

After passing the 'Descartes' facet, follow the track for another couple of hundred metres into a col before the track goes up again toward the summit. Leave the track and pass through the col to the northern slopes and contour around west (left facing out from the slope) passing through some patches of unavoidable thick scrub. About 10 minutes from the col to the cliff.

© (willmonks)

1.5. Mt Zero Summit Cliff 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.885250, 142.368710

description

This area is mostly garbage though the small cliff just below the lookout has some merit.

© (willmonks)

approach

Follow the walking track. The cliff faces west and the choss is described from left to right.

© (willmonks)

1.6. Mount Zero West Walls 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.886849, 142.368719

description

Here is another area of choss. Some of the rock here looks good but it doesn't seem that anyone has found it yet. Apparently there have been many worthless climbs done here that have not been recorded. Let's hope that they stay that way.

© (willmonks)

approach

The west face has a band of cliffs with large orange overhangs sloping diagonally across the hillside with the highest outcrop directly below the summit. The overhangs look really good from the road but are disappointing on closer acquaintance. Even so, they should yield better climbs than the existing ones.

The first climb is the chimney that divides this outcrop right of the prominent overhangs. We move right from this point.

© (willmonks)

1.7. Mt Zero roadside Crag 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.889123, 142.369064

summary

This very accessible cliff [100m walk in] boasts a handful of good middle grade routes.

description

A major well travelled track leads from the parking area to the landmark chimney corner. The cliff has obviously been used by abseil groups and some of the climbs appear to be well travelled. However, other climbs had loose blocks at key points which needed clearing, indicating that they were unlikely to have been climbed previously. The cliff is effectively the far right hand end of the West Face of Mt Zero, although it is separated from the rest of the West face by about 200m.

approach

Approaching the Flat Rock carpark from Summerday Valley turn right and follow the Mt Zero road for 300m to a short sandy track on the right and an obvious cliff less than 100m from the road. Park along the road edge or drive in to a large clearing [often occupied by campers]. One minute walk. Descend easily at either end, although the right hand end is more pleasant.

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop	Area
6			The Age Chimney	Trad 30m		1.6. Mount Zero West Walls
7			Easy Face	Trad 20m		1.7. Mt Zero roadside Crag
8			Hop Hop For Cheese	Trad 10m		1.2. Pangaea Walls
			Future Legend	Trad 14m		1.4. 4 Cornered Crag
			Spaceball Ricochet	Trad 12m		1.4. 4 Cornered Crag
			Baa	Trad 20m		1.6. Mount Zero West Walls
9			Big Chimney Corner	Trad 20m		1.7. Mt Zero roadside Crag
10			Little Women	Trad 14m		1.5. Mt Zero Summit Cliff
			Twenty Below	Trad 40m, 2		1.5. Mt Zero Summit Cliff
			A Lamb's Tail	Trad 20m		1.6. Mount Zero West Walls
11			Pied Oystercatcher Head Stabilization	Trad 12m		1.2. Pangaea Walls
		★	Lost Daze	Trad 14m		1.4. 4 Cornered Crag
12			Descartes	Trad 12m		1.1. Descartes Edge
			Huff Puppy	Trad 14m		1.4. 4 Cornered Crag
		★	Think Zinc	Trad 14m		1.4. 4 Cornered Crag
13			Toolondo Waters	Trad 18m		1.3. Toolondo Waters
			Waiting...	Trad 14m		1.4. 4 Cornered Crag
			The One Day Of The Year	Trad 15m		1.5. Mt Zero Summit Cliff
		★	Volksgrenadier	Trad 22m		1.7. Mt Zero roadside Crag
14			Only Nineteen	Trad 15m		1.5. Mt Zero Summit Cliff
		★★	On The Beach	Trad 20m		1.7. Mt Zero roadside Crag
15			Mr. Plod	Trad 20m		1.3. Toolondo Waters
			Jo's Boys	Trad 15m		1.5. Mt Zero Summit Cliff
			Something Old, Something New	Trad 30m		1.6. Mount Zero West Walls
			Ambulance Blues	Trad 20m		1.7. Mt Zero roadside Crag
			Greater Tuberosity	Trad 24m		1.7. Mt Zero roadside Crag
16			Wuggies In Love	Trad 18m		1.3. Toolondo Waters
17			Do Dinosaurs Dance?	Trad 18m		1.2. Pangaea Walls
			Wusses In The Light Weights Room	Trad 15m		1.2. Pangaea Walls
		★	Lateral Slinking	Trad 25m		1.3. Toolondo Waters
			Huff Puppy Direct	Trad 14m		1.4. 4 Cornered Crag
			Wet Ones	Trad 14m		1.4. 4 Cornered Crag
18			The Missing Corner	Trad 14m		1.4. 4 Cornered Crag
19			Snatchasaurus	Trad 12m		1.2. Pangaea Walls
22			Brontosauruses Over Bagdad	Trad 20m		1.2. Pangaea Walls
23		★★	First Love	Sport 15m, 7		1.2. Pangaea Walls
25		★	Ephemeral Lakes	Trad 15m		1.2. Pangaea Walls
26		★	Sport Crack	Sport 10m, 5		1.2. Pangaea Walls
29		★★	Rhythmic Pumper	Sport 10m, 5		1.2. Pangaea Walls