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Description

'The Cheesecake' is the lower, first line of cliffs at the southern end of 'Mt Abrupt'. The name becomes obvious when you see the (somewhat chossy) cheesecake-like layers on the east facing walls. Moss and lichen is a problem on many routes, but apart from a few wide horrors, the climbing is quite good.

Since the approach brings you to the righthand end of the cliff, climbs are listed right to left.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a national park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks. See http://m.parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/safety-and-regulations#overview

Approach

Park at the start of the old tourist trail, at a small dirt pullout & gate about 3-3.5 km north along Grampians Rd and about 1 km before the road passes Mt Abrupt's main cliff. Walk up the old tourist trail and you'll come to the far righthand end of cliff (gets increasingly hard to follow but isn't too bad). 'Flay' is the obvious leaning crack to the right of the small caves as you arrive.

Routes

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Grade Route

The obvious leaning crack to the right of the small caves when you first reach 'The Cheesecake'. Easy but definitely a few grades harder than 8. An alternate finish involves heading right and up the slab at the third cave, thereby avoiding the bushes.

1 14
2

Starts as for NLAS, but takes the faint RH crack. Traverse R through bulges up to small ledge on nose. Excellent sustained climbing up faint crack (accepts good small wires) leads up to ledge. Dicey direct start might be possible. Pitch 2 as for NLAS.

FA: Goshen Watts & Chris Leidy, 9 Mar 2014

Looks amazing? Particularly for the grade - very thin crack (small wires & friends) up an inspiring wall. Starts just around the nose of the East facing wall, about 30m left of flay.

  1. 30m, Crux. Delicately up bulges in middle of wall, trending left until it is possible to traverse right on black pockets into the crack. Great climbing up this to ledge below ceiling.

  2. Up to short L facing corner to roof, then step around R and climb chossy wall above - either finish through two noses, or belay beneath them and walk off right.

FA: Russell Crow, Allan Hope & Terry Tremble, 1983

An obvious corner/crack-line that climbs quite well, although a little loose on the top half. Up bulges as for NLAS, trending left to crack and L facing corner, which is followed to ledge (which needs a rap anchor). Do the 2nd pitch of NLAS (about 17) to top out.

FA: Chris Leidy & Goshen Watts, 9 Mar 2014

Straight up centre of face, below RB, 2m left of 'Old English'. Take a few RPs. One RB at start, to rap off DRBs on the ledge. Doubled 50m rope reaches the ground.

FA: Ramon Francis & Dalen Court, 1998

Up 'Old English' for 2m, step right, climb centre of face to exit top right, on arête.

FA: Ramon Francis & Catherine Francis, 1998

FA: Jim Nelson Dick Curtis

On the wall R of Shadow Road there is a major crack line near the arete. The crack starts above a bulging lower wall. Start down and L of the crack.

  1. 18m [20] Up and R following awkward seams and ledges to the foot of the crack. Hanging belay.

  2. 32m [19] The crack to a good ledge on the R.

  3. 22m [17] Step out R and pick your way up the grooves to the final steep crack thru’ the top bulge.

FA: Richard Curtis 1, 2 & Jim Nelson 3, 1979

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Cheesecake.