Northern Cliff All Trad climbing4 routes in area
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This is the huge towering orange wall directly above the Mt Abrupt walking track carpark. On the far left hand side is a wide cave / overhang (unclimbable choss), and on the R of the wall is a steep v-gully. The wall itself is very mossy, but much of the rock is quite solid, with lots of horizontals.
Long, difficult, access has been made slightly easier since the landslides, and a 'track' has been cut through the scrub at the top, so although long and steep, the access isn't too bad... at least until it grows back. Whether the climbing is worth the approach, is another matter; but there is still plenty of unclimbed rock for the adventurous.
Descent from this wall: Rap from a large tree on the RHS of the top of the gully (looking out), down for 35m to another stubbier tree below. Then it's 55m to the base of the wall (will land you at the start of Luftwaffle). Once at the base, it's still an awkward scramble through scrub; but you could do another short rap (to the south side) to get back down to the 'track' or ledge where you can walk along the base of the Northern Wall. Alternatively, if you can carry all your stuff to the top of the cliff, you could walk down the tourist trail, but that won't get you back to the base of the cliff.
Access issues inherited from Grampians
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a national park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks. See http://m.parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/safety-and-regulations#overview
Start up the summit walking track for several hundred metres, looking out for 2 large boulders on the walking track. 30m past the 2nd boulder, head 15m uphill to another boulder that marks the end of an avalanche gully. Walk straight up this (and into another gully) for about 300m until it ends. A roughly cut track then heads left for a long way, and contains some tricky scrambling sections. Should be mostly marked, with green tape and cairned. When you're more or less under the RHS of the main wall, drop down from the top of a boulder, then walk the rest of the way to the middle of the wall, where the track meets the cliff proper (and the start of 'Civilization').
First visited in around 1990... see the SE Gramps guide.
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