The dyno identifies many dinosaurs. A superb climb up the intermittent flake system.
Start 10m R of Sordid Orchids on the elevated ledge, which at this end is about 10m above ground level. Follow the thin flake past a sea of fixed rubbish to a pin. Hard moves lead straight through the dyno, then traverse R to the continuation of the flake. At the roof move R and up a shallow groove to the top.
12 Sep 1984 | First ascent: Kim Carrigan |
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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
26 | Assigned grade |
26 | ★ Grampians Selected Climbs |
26 | ★ Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre |
26 | ★★ The North Grampians Update |
26 | ★★ A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians |
28 | Andrew Connolly |
In 2020 Aboriginal cultural heritage was re-discovered at Taipan Wall (Gunigalg area). The climbing area was subsequently closed to allow Traditional Owners and Parks Victoria to determine a long-term solution for protecting the cultural values of the area through the Greater Gariwerd Landscape Management Plan.
The Climbing Victoria Advisory Council (CVAC) and its member organisations support Traditional Owners to rediscover and protect their cultural heritage. We ask all climbers to support this approach. The Gunigalg visitor area, including Taipan Wall, covers much of the northernmost part of Grampians (Gariwerd) National Park and includes some of the park’s most significant Aboriginal cultural places within this area, as well as popular climbing locations.
Recognising the importance of Taipan Wall to the rock-climbing community, the Gariwerd Traditional Owners, represented by the Barengi Gadjin Land Council Aboriginal Corporation, Gunditj Mirring Traditional Owners Aboriginal Corporation, and Eastern Maar Aboriginal Corporation, worked with Parks Victoria and the Gariwerd Wimmera Reconciliation Network to find alternate access routes that allowed climbing but protected the cultural heritage values.
This reopening is the result of years of effort and consideration to identify how climbing can co-exist with the protection of cultural values. CVAC acknowledges the generosity of the Gariwerd Traditional Owners in working through this process. As a result, the northern section of Taipan Wall (left hand side) was designated as a rock climbing area in the Landscape Management Plan pending completion of site protection works.
There are changes to access points and climbing routes that climbers must familiarise themselves with. An information sheet has been prepared with CVAC’s input; you can access it here from the link below. There is also signage onsite to help climbers understand the changes and new exclusion areas. It is the responsibility of rock climbers to know where they can and cannot climb. Entering and climbing in these locations should be done with respect for the Traditional Owners of these lands along with taking appropriate care to look after these places and avoiding places where climbing is not permitted.
For further queries please contact the organisation that you’re connected to that sits on the Climbing Victoria Advisory Council.
This link below will take you to the details of what’s open, what’s changed etc. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-in-the-grampians-national-park/taipan-wall-rock-climbing-information.pdf
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
Author(s): Steve Toal
Date: 2019
The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.
Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.
Author(s): Steve Toal
Date: 2019
The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.
Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.
Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780646955544
"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"
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