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Description

"... climbing of a quality surpassed by only a few cliffs in the Grampians, with soaring lines, bristling overhangs and generally Arapilesian rock" with "solitude and a dramatic setting". Chris Baxter SE Grampians guidebook. Routes are described from LEFT to RIGHT, which is the opposite order you will probably approach from.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a national park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks. See http://m.parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/safety-and-regulations#overview

Approach

Actually accessed from the Halls Gap - Dunkeld Rd from a few kms south of the 'Mt William' Rd...but grouped in with the Mt William Rd crags for now. Park on the Halls Gap - Dunkeld Rd 3 km south of the Mt William Rd turn-off. Walk east along the "Mt William Track" (aka "Major Mitchell Plateau Track"), for 3km. Once the crag is visible up to your right, and you think the scrub looks penetrable, up you go. It's almost a kilometre of uphill scrub bashing to the crag. You'll probably arrive at the right (NW) end of the crag, and may need to head left (SE) along the base to find most of the routes.

© (willmonks)

Descent notes

There is a main central descent gully, with most routes being not too far either side of it.

© (willmonks)

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Routes

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1 13
2

150m left of the descent gully.

Where 'The Shrew' traverses right at 10m, climb directly up corner to ledge. Directly up wall.

FA: Anton Bartlett, Simon Murray & Andrew Wilson, 1996

Crack up right of Guinevere. Steep to ledge, then up slightly left

FA: Wayne Maher & Glen Donohue, 1996

106 metres R of the descent gully.

A long-hidden gem-one of the best on the cliff. Weakness in recessed face left of The Funeral Pyre.

  1. 25m (crux) Step up right to belay on small ledge on The Funeral Pyre (after final, short finger-crack).

  2. 35m (21) Up and left 3m, then traverse left to slight bulge and crack. Up with increasing ease.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Julian Devery & Paul Einoder, 1997

60m R of Dogfight.

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