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Description

An extensive but fairly none descript cliff with few continuous lines. The best sections are found at both the R hand and L hand ends of the cliff. The RH is close to the track and car park. Unfortunately the walk to the LH end is a bit of a nightmare. Even though it is flat and probably no more than a kilometer the rough ground and thick low bushes make it very unpleasant country to traverse taking a good hour or more to get to the 'Monkey Business' area. This is a pity because there are more good routes still to be done down this end.

© (armstp)

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a national park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks. See http://m.parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/safety-and-regulations#overview

Approach

From the 'Mt William' turntable follow the Bomjinna Track. This climbs slightly but then descends through the lower cliff line arriving at the RH end of the cliff in about 5 minutes. The climbs are described from R to L as you reach them from the track. Descent is something of a problem for any route from 'Just a Dream' Lward. It is preferable to find some sturdy trees and abseil. Otherwise you have to find your way R ward along the top of the cliff to find the track. This is more difficult and unpleasant than you might expect.

© (armstp)

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Routes

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Grade Route

The first 2 pitches are very good, the 3rd is just a way off.

Start: 50m L of where the track reaches the cliff is a major L facing corner.

  1. 20m (17) Up the corner to belay below roofs

  2. 12m (19) L around stepped roofs. A couple of final wild moves get you around an arete from where you can move up to a ledge below the final roof.

  3. 15m (15) L under roof and up mossy rock in the corner.

FA: Wayne Maher & Derek visser, 1984

Nice enough

Start: 50m down and L of S&H. A L facing corner on front of pinnacle.

  1. 30m (16) Up corner over a few bulges then R to large ledge.

  2. 25m (12) Up gully and into chimney on L. Up this.

FA: Michael Stone & Keith Lockwood [alt], 1974

Up tiered corner L of pinnacle [which is 30m above ground] Traverse L below roof then up steep broken ground. Abseil from tree.

Start: Yet to be located. Possibly 2m L of 'Snuffy'.

FA: Derek Vissor & Wayne Maher, 1984

1 17
2

Start: 60m L of 'Snuffy'.

  1. 10m (18) Scramble up on L of buttress L of pinnacle to ledge below orange roof. Up corner then R to stance.

  2. 15m (-) Up broken corner, traverse L 4m then up thin corner to stance below closed crack. Traverse R and climb first gully. Abseil from tree.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Kelvin Longhurst, 1984

FFA: Stephen Hamilton & Nick Tapp, 1992

Supposedly pleasant but not sustained. If I could ever find it I would like to find out for myself.

Start: Scramble up from L to ledge 20m L of JJ. Cairned. I think the cairn was placed by the editor of the SE 'Grampians' guide who thought that he had found the right line and decided to mark it. I have had a lot of trouble over the years trying to find this route. Three times over the past 30+ years I have been to the cliff and failed to locate it. The cairned line vaguely matches the first pitch description but it lands you on a ledge below a large very rotten buttress wide roof with no breaks in it. It was not possible to pass R of it [as the description says] either. I don't believe this is where the route goes.

  1. 39m (-) Climb L facing corner, pass R of the bulge. Belay on second ledge above capping overhang.

  2. 19m (19) Line and corner.

FA: Michael Stone, Chris Dewhirst [alt] & Rein Kamar, 1972

A good sustained 1st P and a very steep crack on the top one.

Start: About 120m L of 'Snuffy'. Look for a thin crack and shallow L facing corner up steep orange/red rock [see photo].

  1. 25m (19) Up sustained line to steep exit.

  2. 15m (10) Up easily to large terrace.

  3. 20m (20) Very steep crack to a trying exit.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Dave Maclean, 1980

Nice

Start: 5m L ofJaD

FA: Peter Cunningham, Glenn Donohue, Kelvin Longhurst & Andrew Webb, 1984

Bushy

Start: As for LB

  1. 42m (12) Up LB for 10m to overhang. L to main bushy line and follow it up R to terrace.

  2. 18m (13) 5m R to corner. Up

  3. 15m (-) Up bottomless chimney.

FA: Geoff Gledhill & Alan Gledhill [var], 1972

Good exciting climbing. Unfortunately the first bulge [originally aided] is grades harder than any thing else on the route. The grade drops to 16 if you chin on a nut.

Start: 30m L of LB. On the L side of the distinctive overhanging red buttress is a crack with a chockstone at 10m. The line leads to a recessed, overhanging red wall.

  1. 27m (19) Over overhang and into groove. Up to ledge on L. Up a few moves then traverse R to foot of corner. Up.

  2. 12m (15) L on ledge to corner, up

  3. 12m (14) R and up sloping line to bulge. R across slab [descending slightly] and up break above.

  4. 9m (12) R and up wall 3m, back L to ledge, up.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Michael Stone [alt], 1972

Originally desribed as an impressive corner chimney line. Sounds pretty awful.

Start: The SE 'Grampians' Guide says 300m L of Lactic Buildup and 20m L of a boulder choke at the foot of the cliff. The original description said 250 yards [230m] L of the descent gully. Look for a massive corner/chimney up high. Supposedly initialled.

  1. 35m (7) Up very scrubby broken rock to the foot of the chimney

  2. 17m (7) Chimney passing inside of chockston.

  3. 15m (7) Up

FA: Rob Taylor & Jerry Grandage [alt], 1966

Start: 40m L of 'Anaconda'

  1. 24m (-) Scramble up to below big, dirty, L facing corner. Up vegetated corner crack.

  2. 24m (-) Dirty crack to alcove.

  3. 10m (16) Struggle up narrow chimney on R. This route sounds better and better each pitch!

FA: Bob Connell, Michael Stone & Chris Baxter [alt] Rein Kamar, 1972

Start: Massive L facing corner 90m L of IG

  1. 38m (10) Grassy, lichenous corner passing broken area on L then up chimney.

  2. 32m (10) Up chimney exiting R to corner. Finish up tight chimney above.

FA: Geoff Gledhill & Alan Gledhill [alt], 1972

Another nice looking crack line.

Start: 30m L of APVS at the top of the step. Thin crack up L side of attractive wall.

  1. 25m (19) Up thin crack exiting L

  2. 20m (-) Up and R to follow line. Descend as for APVS.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff [alt] Peter Jacob, 1978

Excellent short route. 30m L of 'Monkey Business' is a saddle between the main cliff and the back of a lower wall/pinnacle. On the main face is a lovely looking crack. Face to neat clean crack line, up this. Abseil descent down gully to right.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 12 Oct 2008

Eye catching crack line.

Start: About 1km L of the RH end of the cliff where there is a steep step between the cliff and a subsidiary buttress. Locate a pair of cracks up a steep wall [landmark lines], this climb takes the LH one. Start at the foot of the step which leads up to 'Monkey Business'.

  1. 12m (10) Up to left end of ledge below cracks.

  2. 40m (17) Up and R into impressive crack line, up this to ledge, then short steep chimney to top. Descent from this end of the cliff is difficult since the fire has killed all of the large trees. We went L about 80m and scrambled down to a small tree from where a 50m abseil reached the ground.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong [alts], 12 Sep 2008

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