Upper Cliff All Trad climbing46 routes in cliff
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The highest peak in the 'Grampians' is not a winter destination. A long cliff line in a striking location but few strong lines. There are however a number of good buttresses with unxepectedly good holds and gear turning up on many of the faces. A number of good climbs are available [if you can locate them!]. The climbs around 'Conqueror' and the Major Mitchell buttress are easy to find and are the best starting points for visiting the cliff. A lot of the original routes were very undergraded. This probably happened in the late 60s when the grades were translated from the old [badly applied] English system to the Ewbank system of grading without any one actually repeating the routes to see what grades they really were. 'Mt William' is very much a summer cliff and is often much cooler than other cliffs even though it faces North.© (armstp)
Access issues inherited from Grampians
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a national park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks. See http://m.parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/safety-and-regulations#overview
From the Halls Gap/Dunkeld road take the Mt William road to the carpark at the locked summit road gate. The RH end of the upper cliff is visible above the carpark. Walk up the summit road to the 4th and last zig zag corner. Depending where you want to go there are now two options. *OPTION ONE - this is best for the climbs around Conqueror and from there Rward to Order of the White Elephant. From the 4th zig zag continue along the road for 15m. On your L is a scree slope get up onto this and find a cairned route. This route initially keeps about 50m away from the cliff edge, after the first 100m it moves into quite clear and easy terrain and hits the cliff edge in little more than 5 minutes about 20m short of the abseil chains above Marie. These abseil chains are over the cliff edge and it is advisable to connect in with a sling before setting up the abseil. 2x50m ropes required [45m abseil]. Gear up at the top and abb down to climb. *OPTION 2 - this covers the area from the Major Mitchell Buttress Rwards and back L as far as Lower Orders. For these climbs head out on a faint track from the last zig zag to the cliff edge 40m away. If you walk R [facing out] along the cliff edge for 30m you will arrive at a descent gully. There are 2 abseil bolts a few meters down in the gully. A single 50m rope will get you down from here [25m abseil - If preferred this gully can be scrambled down and back up with some difficulty]. From the foot of this gully the Major Mitchell buttress is about 20m R. Or you can pick your way L from here on a rapidly improving pad to get to the area around Conqueror.© (armstp)
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