Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Liomin Castle | |||||
14 | Jamb Session
| 48m | |||
15 | ★★ QED
150m left of the descent gully. | 71m | |||
11 | The Inquisition
| 75m | |||
14 | Blind Faith
| 75m | |||
20 | ★★★ Flights of Fancy
| 72m | |||
21 | ★ True Blue
| 50m | |||
10 | Donkey Vote
| 80m | |||
13 | Ipso Facto
| 48m | |||
13 | The Shrew
| 48m | |||
17 | The Shrew Direct
Where 'The Shrew' traverses right at 10m, climb directly up corner to ledge. Directly up wall. FA: Anton Bartlett, Simon Murray & Andrew Wilson, 1996 | 48m | |||
18 | The Dream
| 35m | |||
6 | The Crypt
| 33m | |||
12 | The Rat Pack
| 34m | |||
10 | Guinevere
| 34m | |||
17 | Gift of the Flab
Crack up right of Guinevere. Steep to ledge, then up slightly left FA: Wayne Maher & Glen Donohue, 1996 | 22m | |||
20 | Scrotal Misgivings
| 28m | |||
6 | Santa
| 40m | |||
19 | ★★ Who Pulled the Plug?
| 75m | |||
15 | ★★ Dogfight
106 metres R of the descent gully. | 89m | |||
15 | Dogfight Variant Start
| 36m | |||
14 | ★ The Dangler
| 86m | |||
18 | ★ Milord
| 88m | |||
15 | ★ Bumbly Way
| 81m | |||
19 | ★★★ Pusher Man
| 90m | |||
19 | Pusher Man Direct Start
| 10m | |||
20 | ★★★ Cruel Sister
| 81m | |||
18 | Cardinal Sin
| 46m | |||
15 | Chairman of the Bored
| 23m | |||
22 | Patent Lies
A long-hidden gem-one of the best on the cliff. Weakness in recessed face left of The Funeral Pyre.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Julian Devery & Paul Einoder, 1997 | 60m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ The Funeral Pyre
60m R of Dogfight. | 78m | |||
15 | Spasm
| 60m | |||
18 | ★ Vindicator
| 71m | |||
18 | ★★ Hacklespur
| 55m | |||
22 | ★ Sharks in the Bathtub
| 20m | |||
16 | ★ The Living Daylights
| 85m | |||
15 | ★ Jamb Utty
| 50m | |||
15 | The American Dream
| 25m | |||
16 | Jack in the Box
| 21m | |||
The Mt William Road Cliff | |||||
15 | ★ Rock Lobster
| 25m | |||
16 | ★★ Sisu
| 25m | |||
15 | Prichards Bimble
| 25m | |||
16 | Nothing Money Can't Fix
Face from small platform near grasstree 3m right of Prichards Bimble (Pritchard's Bimble?). Small, right-facing corner, then break in roof to face. Veer left to tree belay. FA: Geoff Butcher & Sam Azzopardi, 1996 | 25m | |||
15 | Painted Treasure
Face 2m right of Nothing Money Can’t Fix (1m right of right-facing corner) to blade of rock. Right through bulge to face, then right-facing corner. Left to tree belay. FA: Geoff Butcher & Sam Azzopardi, 1996 | 28m | |||
16 | Single-handed Veranda
From 5m right of Painted Treasure scramble up to small cherry tree at 10m (belay). Face to twin, square-cut overhangs. Traverse below both to lip, then face to large ledge. Abseil (double ropes) from tree 5m to right. FA: Geoff Butcher & Sam Azzopardi, 1996 | 38m | |||
20 | ★ Gothic Rock
| 70m | |||
17 | The Rattler
| 100m | |||
21 | ★★ Rainmaker
| 76m | |||
15 | Retreat in the heat / the story of 2 wise men
(and the story of one not so wise man and woman). Good climbing - just don't do it on a superhot day! Start: Starts about 30m right (facing the cliff) of "Rainmaker" at small ledge at base of cliff. There is a tree here which can provide some relief from the sun if really hot.
FA: Josef Goding (P1, 3) & Naomi Gibbs (P2), 2008 | 110m, 3 | |||
13 | Midnight Express
| 130m | |||
Lower Cliff | |||||
19 | ★★ Starlets and Harlots
The first 2 pitches are very good, the 3rd is just a way off. Start: 50m L of where the track reaches the cliff is a major L facing corner.
FA: Wayne Maher & Derek visser, 1984 | 47m, 3 | |||
15 | ★ Snuffy
Nice enough Start: 50m down and L of S&H. A L facing corner on front of pinnacle.
FA: Michael Stone & Keith Lockwood [alt], 1974 | 55m, 2 | |||
14 | Derek and the Derros
Up tiered corner L of pinnacle [which is 30m above ground] Traverse L below roof then up steep broken ground. Abseil from tree. Start: Yet to be located. Possibly 2m L of 'Snuffy'. FA: Derek Vissor & Wayne Maher, 1984 | 25m | |||
19 | Monteverdi
Supposedly pleasant but not sustained. If I could ever find it I would like to find out for myself. Start: Scramble up from L to ledge 20m L of JJ. Cairned. I think the cairn was placed by the editor of the SE 'Grampians' guide who thought that he had found the right line and decided to mark it. I have had a lot of trouble over the years trying to find this route. Three times over the past 30+ years I have been to the cliff and failed to locate it. The cairned line vaguely matches the first pitch description but it lands you on a ledge below a large very rotten buttress wide roof with no breaks in it. It was not possible to pass R of it [as the description says] either. I don't believe this is where the route goes.
FA: Michael Stone, Chris Dewhirst [alt] & Rein Kamar, 1972 | 58m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Just a Dream
A good sustained 1st P and a very steep crack on the top one. Start: About 120m L of 'Snuffy'. Look for a thin crack and shallow L facing corner up steep orange/red rock [see photo].
FA: Philip Armstrong & Dave Maclean, 1980 | 60m, 3 | |||
13 | Lactic Build-up
Nice Start: 5m L ofJaD FA: Peter Cunningham, Glenn Donohue, Kelvin Longhurst & Andrew Webb, 1984 | 23m | |||
13 | The Flying Circus
Bushy Start: As for LB
FA: Geoff Gledhill & Alan Gledhill [var], 1972 | 75m, 3 | |||
19 | Valkyrie
Good exciting climbing. Unfortunately the first bulge [originally aided] is grades harder than any thing else on the route. The grade drops to 16 if you chin on a nut. Start: 30m L of LB. On the L side of the distinctive overhanging red buttress is a crack with a chockstone at 10m. The line leads to a recessed, overhanging red wall.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Michael Stone [alt], 1972 | 58m, 4 | |||
7 | Acaconda
Originally desribed as an impressive corner chimney line. Sounds pretty awful. Start: The SE 'Grampians' Guide says 300m L of Lactic Buildup and 20m L of a boulder choke at the foot of the cliff. The original description said 250 yards [230m] L of the descent gully. Look for a massive corner/chimney up high. Supposedly initialled.
FA: Rob Taylor & Jerry Grandage [alt], 1966 | 63m, 3 | |||
16 | Indian Giver
Start: 40m L of 'Anaconda'
FA: Bob Connell, Michael Stone & Chris Baxter [alt] Rein Kamar, 1972 | 58m, 3 | |||
10 | Monty Python
Start: Massive L facing corner 90m L of IG
FA: Geoff Gledhill & Alan Gledhill [alt], 1972 | 70m, 2 | |||
17 | Another Pleasant Valley Sunday
Eye catching crack line. Start: About 1km L of the RH end of the cliff where there is a steep step between the cliff and a subsidiary buttress. Locate a pair of cracks up a steep wall [landmark lines], this climb takes the LH one. Start at the foot of the step which leads up to 'Monkey Business'.
FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong [alts], 2008 | 52m, 2 | |||
19 | Monkey Business
Another nice looking crack line. Start: 30m L of APVS at the top of the step. Thin crack up L side of attractive wall.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff [alt] Peter Jacob, 1978 | 45m, 2 | |||
18 | Last Train to Clarksville
Excellent short route. 30m L of 'Monkey Business' is a saddle between the main cliff and the back of a lower wall/pinnacle. On the main face is a lovely looking crack. Face to neat clean crack line, up this. Abseil descent down gully to right. FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 2008 | 18m | |||
Upper Cliff | |||||
16 | Your Worst Nightmare
Good luck finding this. Start: South of the summit is a lot of cliff. This route is in a large amphitheatre accessed from the first prominent saddle south of summit area. Start 5m L of prominent spur.
FA: Graham Gittins & Wayne Maher [alt], 1993 | 75m, 3 | |||
18 | Montague
A long way L of the other routes, look for a groove line starting high on the cliff [it has some bright green lichen on the left wall high up but this doesn't stand out as much as it did 40 years ago!]. It is a V groove leading to an overhang then a steep R facing groove up the headwall. It is not however easy to find. I recently repeated it thinking I was on a new route, and as I had done the first free ascent of it in 1978 I should have had some idea what it looked like.
FA: Michael Stone & Chris Dewhirst [alt] Rein Kamar, 1972 FFA: Philip Armstrong, 1978 | 61m, 2 | |||
10 | Queen Ann
Nothing royal about this Start: Below a buttress with a distinctive triangular roof.
FA: Rob Taylor & Daryl Carr [alt], 1966 | 44m, 3 | |||
18 | Brace and Bit
Originally escaped off R, the exciting finish as described gives a good route. Start: R of the QA buttress is a buttress distinguished by a 1m wide overhang just below its top. This overhang has a a couple of lines though it towards the RH side.
FA: Jerry Maddox, Philip Armstrong P1Philip Armstrong & Richard Curtis P2, 1978 | 45m, 2 | |||
18 | Brace and Bit Variant Finish
| 15m | |||
15 | Bloody Mary
Start: Next buttress R of B&B. I haven't been able to identify this route.
FA: Rein Kamar & Bob Connell [alt], 1972 | 88m, 2 | |||
8 | The Ego Trip
Pitiful Start: From end of terrace L of 'Stage Fright'
FA: Alan Gledhill & Geoff Gledhill [alt], 1972 | 45m, 2 | |||
17 | Stage Fright
Big line 13m R of ET, originally described as a 'proud corner' it actually looks like a steep grotty gully...and what do you know, when you climb it that is just what it is. FA: Chris Baxter, Geoff Gledhill & Julie Tulloch, 1973 | 45m | |||
15 | Tweedle Dee
Start: As for SF
FA: Geoff Gledhill, Michael Stone [alt] & Alan Gledhill, 1972 | 45m, 2 | |||
13 | Banksia
Not bad but a bit mossy. Start: 7m R of TD. Has a prominent square and letter B at its base, making it a good landmark in this area.
FA: Ann Richardson & Jerry Grandage [alt], 1966 | 39m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Free Bird
Excellent positions. Start: 3m R of 'Banksia'
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Rod Young, 1978 | 60m, 2 | |||
22 | ★★ Fedallah
A dramatic line and an atmospheric climb which is best completed by the P3 variant. The 2nd pitch was originally all aid. Start: Initalled corner 9m R of FB
FA: Peter Jackson & Ian Guild [alt], 1966 | 47m, 4 | |||
17 | Fedallah Direct Finish
| 15m | |||
19 | ★ Harpoon
The excellent crack [which the abseil route goes pretty much straight over] on the 2nd pitch links together sections of existing climbs to give an exciting route finishing at the abseil bolts. P1 (18m, 15) As for P1 Fedallah P2 (32m, 19) Up the corner to the bulge, step out R and up to the ledge above the bulge. Traverse boldly out R to the thin crack, up this exiting L at the top. Step back R and up to join the top corner of Marie. FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong [alt] Jerry Maddox, 2012 | 50m | |||
20 | ★★ Kiss of the Spider Woman
Very unlikely looking wall climbing which looks very poorly protected. Sustained. Start: 2m R of 'Fedallah'
FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 1990 | 50m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ Marie
Two clean, varied and enjoyable grade 17 pitches which deserve to be popular. Their are abseil chains at the top. 2x50m ropes required. Start: Crack 4m R of KotSW and 3m L of the prominent corner of 'Conqueror'.
FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter [alt] & Gary Schmidt, 1990 | 47m, 2 | |||
16 | Conqueror
A solid undertaking up a powerful line. Originally graded 11! Possibly the hardest route led by a woman in 'Australia' in 1966. Start: Initialled corner 3m R of 'Marie'
FA: Jerry Grandage & Ann Richardson [alt], 1966 | 47m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Rameses II
Start: As for 'Conqueror'
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong [alt] & Tony Dignan, 1978 | 45m, 2 | |||
19 R | Nails
Dirty, loose and poorly protected Start: 8m R of 'Conqueror'.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Michael Stone [alt], 1972 FFA: Stephen Hamilton & Nick Tapp, 1992 | 46m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ Swarm
Altho' it initially struggles to stay out of 'Snake' P1 gives good climbing on good rock, P2 isn't bad despite some loose stuff. Start: 7m R of 'Nails'
FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 1990 | 50m, 2 | |||
13 | Snake
There is a large gully/groove between Swarm and Excalibur. Snake, Pilgrim and part of Swarm go into this gully. Some time in the 80s there was a massive rock fall in this gully when a huge detached flake high on the cliff which was originally part of Pilgrim and Snake along with a large part of the gully/groove lines above and below it, fell down. Everything in the gully itself where Pilgrim originally started is very unstable and covered in loose shattered rock. Only the first pitch of Snake has survived, after which you will need to continue up one of the harder finishes. Start: Initialled crack 1m R of 'Swarm'
FA: Brian Oates & Barbara Gillespie, 1966 | 50m, 2 | |||
18 X | Pilgrim
Due to the rockfall the described route is an amalgam of 3 old routes giving a route on mostly solid, protectable rock. Originally started in the gully around the corner, but this is now best avoided. Wide crack 1m R of Swarm. P1 (15m, 13) Up wide crack to nose, swing R and up to ledge. Up to block, climb crack behind block to ledge below overhangs. This is the same belay as for Swarm. P2 (35m, 18) Traverse R to short corner, up this [crux] then traverse R on unstable ground to solid crack on R wall of groove. [Continuing up the thin crack above the crux is P2 of Swarm] P3 (20m, 14) Up the steep crack [top pitch of Despondency]. FA: Michael Stone & Chris Dewhirst [alt], 1972 | 47m, 2 | |||
14 | Despondency
Awful first pitch. At the R edge of the gully/groove line R of Swarm is a large detached pinnacle. P1 (34m, 14) Up the R side of the pinnacle then R ward into a series of short corners leading to a ledge below a steep exit crack. P2 (12m, 14) Crack and chimney FA: Alan Gledhill & Geoff Gledhill [alt] Michael Stone, 1972 | 49m, 2 | |||
16 | Exalibur
20m R of Swarm. Marked with a white square. The climb starts up a fairly obvious crack/seam above an overhang which was originally graded 11. Not a bad route with the variant finish.
FA: Daryl Carr & Rob Taylor [alt], 1966 | 49m, 2 | |||
16 | Excalibur variant
Start: A better way to do 'Excalibur', start as for that climb. Interesting climbing on both pitches.
FA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 2011 | 47m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ Yesukai
Originally erroneously described as starting up Tweedle Dum, it takes the attractive shallow corner 15m R of Excalibur which the First Ascent party must have assumed was the corner TD started up. Clean and steep, with some unexpectedly good holds and excellent gear. Up corner, move out L when it ends and up to overlap. Above this traverse R [crux] to crack near arete. Up this to ledge [possible belay] then R and up 2 short walls. FA: Rod Young & Kevin Lindorff | 42m | |||
14 | Tweedle Dum
Initialled TD. About 22m R of 'Excalibur', and 7m R of 'Yesukai' are a pair of short corners just R of some rooves. Up the RH corner to a ledge, rising traverse L ward for 3m then up short wall to ledge. Up wide crack, then short walls, cracks and gullies to top. FA: Alan Gledhill & Geoff Gledhill, 1972 | 45m | |||
19 | Dorothea Jordan
Start: As for Tweedledum.
FA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 2011 | 45m, 3 | |||
8 | Mitchell's Carpenter
I have no idea where this route is. It was described as starting 5m R of TD. But nothing with this grade or description goes up there.
FA: Tom Banfield & Keith Wooward, 1972 | 47m, 3 | |||
15 | Tolpuddle
Start at the bushy ledge beneath Upper Crust. 10m R of Tweedle Dum.
FA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox [alt], 2012 | 45m, 2 | |||
17 | Upper Crust
Steep and enjoyable face climbing Start: 10m R of TD, a seam/crack up an attractive wall. Initialled [altho' you can't see the initials from the track thanks to some bushes].
FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox [alt], 2006 | 40m, 2 | |||
17 | Order of the White Elephant
Start: 15m R of Upper Crust is a L facing corner, initialled. A worthwhile outing at the grade.
P2 added by Philip Armstrong, John Stone 20-11-2011 FA: Greg Aimer & Chrissy Freestone, 1994 | 35m, 2 | |||
15 | Silly Billy
About 30m R of Order of the White Elephant is a buttress with a band of steep orange rock across its base. Scramble up to the RH edge of this band. There are some massive detached blocks on P1 which you have to pull over, in retrospect I wouldn't recommend it. P1 (18m, 15) Up RH crack over two bulges to a seam. Up seam until it steepens, step L and up to ledge. Up and R to ledge next to chimney. P2 (17m, 15) Up chimney and crack FA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox [alt], 2012 | 35m | |||
19 | Lower Orders
Start: Approx 50m R of OWE locate a short steep buttress with an initialled thin crack leading to a bulge. [This is about 70m L of the major Mitchell Buttress]
FA: Jeremy Maddox & Philip Armstrong [alt], 2004 | 40m, 2 | |||
19 | Major Mitchell's Cup of Tea
Good Start: The buttress directly below where you reach the cliff. There is a distinctive boulder/pinnacle at the L edge of the face.
FA: Greg Aimer & Chrissy Freestone, 1994 | 33m, 2 | |||
16 | Major Mitchell's Fan Club
From top of pillar, 4m R of MMCT. 'Steep' wall, short flake then L hand seam. FA: Greg Aimer & Chrissy Freestone, 1994 | 28m | |||
19 | Royal Bastard
Excellent, sustained climbing. Start 4m R and 8m below MMFC. Easy square cut chimney to ledge on L [possibly better to start from here]. The surprisingly frantic groove and seam exiting Rward to finish up short cracks and steep head wall. FA: Jeremy Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2005 | 28m |