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Description

a bunch of small crags which have a bunch of good routes not far from the car (10-15mins). They are generally well protected from the rain.

Please note that camping is currently banned by Parks 'Victoria'.

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

2.2km East of the Telecom tower and 2.7km West of Golton Gorge you will find two dirt tracks on the south side of the 'Henry Bolte' 'Highway'. Park here (S36 53.949 E142 24.980) and walk uphill towards the attractive orange wall. Bop through the cave or around the left hand side and you'll be standing under the main wall.

© (jgoding)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

I bet every climber looks at this line, then keeps walking to the rings waiting beyond! The massive roof out the left side of the main access cave. RP's to #4 cam required. Could possibly go free. To descend (2nd pitch), escape up chimney, or climb crack on the left wall.

FA: Goshen Watts & Richard Lodge, 27 Dec 2013

Funky hugging.

Start: 'Arete' at far left end of main wall, and 2m left of 'Two Face'.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

Bolted line left of Batman & Robin. 5 bolts.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2007

Good climbing up a flake line with a touch of boldness - especially getting to the first bolt.

Start: Starts around 5m from the left side of the main wall below two RBs. First ascent was done by the guy sadly lost his life on the first solo kayak journey across the Tasman.

FA: Andrew MacAuley, Peter Cunningham & Phil Robinson, 1989

Link-up sport route. Avoids the potentially dangerous start on Batman and Robin. Start up 'Boy Wonder' to third FH. Traverse left 2m to join Batman and Robin. Up the corners past 2 RB. From jug, traverse left past FH to lower off at 'Two Face'.

A worthwhile linkup if you are too weak to wear your undies on the outside. Start up 'Boy Wonder' to clip its fifth FH. Traverse left into Batman and Robin. Up past RB then left past FH to 'Two Face' lower off.

Excellent climbing on immaculate rock.

Start: 1m left of Gotham City. The subtle weakness on the steep orange wall between Batman and Robin and Gotham City.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2007

Slinky face climbing also dealing with the best moves on Gotham City. A great linkup.

Start: Start as for 'Boy Wonder'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2007

Sustained, steep and classy. Deservedly popular.

Start: Starts as for 'Cromagnon Man' which is initialed (around 5m right of Batman

and Robyn which is also initialed).

FA: Josef Goding, 2007

Porly protected.

Start: Initialed with white paint. Up short corner, traverse about 5m right on ledge (at 2m). Up corner/ flake and wall above. Walk off.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Glen Donohue, Andrew Webb, Phil Robinson & Tony Wilson, 1989

no idea about this one as no-one I know has repeated it. Looks old school

Start: Starts 15m right of CROMAGNON MAN at the base of the layback crack to the left of the overhanging off-width.

FA: Phil Robinson, Peter Cunningham & Andrew Macauly, 1989

"Because it's close to camp". 'Steep' trad. Good gear but some debatable rock quality at the start.

Start: About 3-5m right of 'Meanderthal Man'.

FA: 2007

Activity

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