Help

The Sun Gate

Climbing in this area is not permitted.

5
AU

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

So named for the Incan sun worship practice this lovely spot sees sun till about midday and has lovely views across the wimmera. You can just see Stapylton from the top. Climbing is steep, well protected sport in the 20-25 department. Worth the walk even though the routes are short.

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Golton Rocks

On the urgent "to be reviewed asap" list.

Approach

About 10mins further on from the Sun Deck is a mini-gallery like wall. The track is easily found by walking up to the top (left) of 'The Sun Deck', onto the ridge. Stay on the ridge and go down (cairns guide you) for about 300m. Cross the valley/gully low down and up to the cliff. Alternatively, follow the track at the far right hand end of the Sun Deck (at the base of Holy Human Fly) away from the cliff to a clearing, cut back in to the base of the cliff after about 150m on a track marked by a cairn. An easy scramble up about 20m (be careful some of the rock may be slightly loose and mossy in places) leads to the base of the saddle, then follow cairns across valley. About 25mins from the car, about 10mins further on from 'The Sun Deck'.

© (jgoding)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

More steep sport! Reachy, powerful. According to the Inca mythology, Inti was the sun god, as well a patron deity of Tahuantinsuyu. His exact origin is not known. The most common story says he is the son of Viracocha, the god of civilization.

Start: Starts as for "Tumi" and head straight up after Tumi's 1st bolt past 4 more to separate rap station. Tricky clip on 3rd bolt.

FA: Frank Hahnenberger, 2007

Good steep sports fun. Sharp flake at the top. (Tumi is an Incan name for a sharp ceremonial golden knife)

Start: Just left of the middle of the wall is a thin rib/flake starting about half height.

FA: Josef Goding, 2007

Sustained and excellent.

Start: Starts just right of Tumi

FA: Josef Goding, 2007

Juggy start leads to some long, powerful moves. 5 FH to double bolt lower-off.

Start: Start on juggy flake between 'Conquistador' and 'Atahualpa'.

FA: Andy Ellemor, 2007

With the arrival from Spain in 1532 of Francisco Pizarro and his entourage of mercenaries or conquistadors, the Inca empire was seriously threatened for the first time. Duped into meeting with the conquistadors in a peaceful gathering, an Inca emperor, 'Atahualpa', was kidnapped and held for ransom. After paying over $50 million in gold by today's standards, 'Atahualpa', who was promised to be set free, was strangled to death by the Spaniards who then marched straight for Cuzco and its riches.

Start: The right most line on the wall, up past 5FH (glue in M10x90mm G304 - HILTI HIT-150) to rap station on small ledge.

FA: Achim Gross, 2007

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Tue 18 Apr
Check out what is happening in The Sun Gate.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文