A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Kieran Loughran Campbell Gome Phil Neville Andreas Aachen Almar Postma Tim Hamish Donohoe Philip Armstrong Tim Haasnoot Antonio De Grazia
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Epsilon Wall 23 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Epsilon Wall 23 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.893857, 142.380783
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
description
This shady wall is on the left as you reach the top of Flat Rock. It has a few good examples of both trad, sport and mixed climbing as well as some very serious climbs at a spread of grades. The shockingly wide corner crack is 'Epsilon Plus'. The wall left of 'Epsilon Plus' offers good thin face climbs and some cracks of less distinction. Right of 'Epsilon Plus' is the frightening arete of 'New Imperative' and several attractive corners.
Up right from these climbs is the 'Skippy' Terrace, which has a few more good routes and is a good place on a warm day.
access issues
Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd
approach
The cliff faces SSE and is in complete shade for much of the year. It gets early morning sun in summer and often catches breezes from the top of Flat Rock. This can be a pleasant spot on a warm day but it is a miserable place in winter.
For the first 9 routes, please do NOT walk directly up from the walking track to the base of 'Epsilon Plus'. The hillside here is steep and sandy and erodes easily. Instead please approach these climbs from well to the left, traversing in across slabby ledges from Flat Rock, as shown by the red lines in some of the topos below.
For the first 7 routes, descend via rap chain (18m) directly above Iron In The Soul. The 'Benn Gunn' area is served by a double ring bolt rap anchor above 'Crossfire' (22m). There's also a shitty descent down an awkward scramble past old graffiti at the left end (50m left of Mistaken Identity).
ethic
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Buried Standing Up
Obvious line but doesn't appeal. Pro is a bit awkward to place but good. Start 5m L of 'Mistaken Identity'. Up to and through the break in the overhang and continue. FA: Brendan Abernathy & Andy Reynolds, 1998 | 21 | 12m | |||||
2 |
Mistaken Identity
A good wall leads to a corner with a rounded finish and fiddly pro. The second hanging corner left of 'Epsilon Plus'. Wall into corner. Corner with dodgy protection (2 each of #3 & #4 RPs for final moves, twist the RPs if you can). FA: Kieran Loughran & Bill Andrews, 1985 | 20 R | 15m | |||||
3 |
The Visiting Bloke
Dirty, with soft rock and sparse protection. The first hanging corner left of 'Epsilon Plus', 10m right of 'Mistaken Identity'. Easily up to corner then carefully up this to finish. FA: Peter Martin, Simon Priest & Andrew Brookes, 1989 | 20 R | 20m | |||||
4 |
★★ Iron In the Soul
Beautiful thin face two metres right of 'The Visiting Bloke'. 4 FHs - the addition of a recent retrobolt has tamed the once dubiously protected start. Rap chain for descent. FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman & Malcolm Matheson, 1991 | 21 | 15m, 4 | |||||
5 |
Decadant Bolting
Death on a stick! It's a shame this route is ruined by macho bullshit runouts; if the 2 bolts were replaced, and another was added between them, it would actually be worthwhile. If you really want to prove you're a hero, don't whip out the drill in the first place! Start: Start two metres left of 'Identity Crisis', four metres right of Iron In The Soul. FA: Richard Smith & Kieran Loughran, 1991 | 22 X | 15m, 2 | |||||
6 |
Identity Crisis
Who am I? What's my purpose in life? What am I doing here? Serious climbing with poor protection and dirt. The distinctive twin seams up the centre of the face, 10m left of 'Epsilon Plus'. FA: Peter Martin & Chris Cope, 1989 | 21 R | 15m | |||||
7 |
★ Full Face Value
Good thin face with reachy crux at first bolt. Climb 'Identity Crisis' to first ledge. Right past FH, up and right, two BRs, and finish up right around bulge and up onto slab. Belay off trad in horizontal. FA: Rob Nabben & Andrew Stevens, 1991 | 22 | 15m, 3 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
Epsilon Plus
A complete body workout. Enjoy! This is one of the first recorded redpoints in 'Victoria'. Guild had previously practised the climb on top-rope. Heaven knows why he returned to lead it. Start: The obvious, extremely wide left-facing corner-crack that splits the centre of the crag. FA: Ian Guild & Chris Dewhirst, 1966 | 15 R | 21m | |||||
9 |
New Imperative
It's imperative that you don't fall (E5, 6a?)! Still, the ethic of this route is vastly superior to the partly bolted contrived boldness of Death on a Stick or 'Diazepam' (until it got retroed). Start: Start 5m R of 'Epsilon Plus'. FA: Jarod McCulloch, Peter Martin & Richard Bugg, 1989 | 23 X | 20m | |||||
10 |
★★ Benn Gunn
The initial corner is excellent but the second half of the climb is not so good. Beware of loose blocks at the top of the main corner. Even the obvious flake-roof should be treated with respect. Start: The attractive corner 15m R of 'Epsilon Plus'. FA: FA Andrew Thomson & David Mudie, 1970 FFA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 20 | 40m | |||||
11 |
Ordinary Bolted Arete
Big shiny ringbolts up short arete left of 'Crossfire'. Only has about 4m of truly indepedent climbing. FA: Christoph & Simon Wheeler, 2003 | 23 | 18m | |||||
12 |
★★ Crossfire
A lovely orange corner leads to an exciting traverse. Slightly marred by a scrappy approach and finish. Start: Start below orange corner R of 'Benn Gunn'. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Glen Tempest, 1977 | 18 | 25m | |||||
13 |
★ Schooner
A nice crack line which needs a bit more traffic to stay clean. While not as technically hard as 'Crossfire' the rock and protection is not as good and it makes for a hard lead. Start: Start up 'Crossfire' to first ledge. FA: Keith Egerton & Dave McLean, 1977 | 16 | 30m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 |
Skip Transit Gloria
Steeper than it looks. Add some slings to a rack of small-medium wires and medium cams. Start: Start a few metres L of Let X=X. FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2007 | 17 | 13m, 2 | |||||
15 |
★★ Let X=X
Pretty good. Sharp corner leading to roof on L side of terrace. Undercut start to corner, bridge past bracken to roof. Traverse L to large ledge. Rap. FA: Kieran Loughran, 1989 | 21 | 20m | |||||
16 |
★ Speaking French
The right wall and arete of Let X=X is not too hard but has it moments, particularly the finish which is sensational. The start of Let X=X provides the crux and requires trad gear. So a large rack doesn't have to be carried here is the trad gear used in order of use: #0.75 (green) Camalot, #0.4 (grey) Camalot, #0.5 (purple) Camalot, #3 (blue) Camalot, #0.75 (green) Camalot (extend with sling). Start: Start as for Let X=X FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2008 | 20 | 15m, 4 | |||||
17 |
★ Walking and Falling
Lots of interest in this climb. A long bouldering traverse just off the ground leads to a cruxy move guarding great climbing up an orange streak. It is possible to place small cams on the traversing start but they're more trouble than they're worth as you're so close to the ground - just stick clip the first bolt if you're concerned. Start: Start about 8 metres right of the Let X=X corner and just left of the boulder on the right side of the wall. FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2007 | 23 | 20m, 6 | |||||
18 |
★★ Riding and Climbing
Good thin face. The first bolt is quite high... in fact it's out of reach even with some brands of stick clip! If soloing up to the first bolt on brittle rock doesn't sound appealing, things can be kept much more sane with a small cam (eg 0.4 camalot). FA: Steve Chapman, Kevin Lindorff & Rob Booth, 2010 | 24 | 20m, 6 | |||||
19 |
Hop Skip and Thump
Trad route with a sting in the tail. Take slings, wires and cams to #3 Friend (gold Camalot). Jugs up the right side of the wall then traverses to the central weakness. Start just right of 'Walking and Falling' being careful not to disturb the bones behind you. Climb up onto the boulder sitting at the base of the wall. Climb steep but easy rock until able to traverse left along the break to below the central seam on the wall. Climb the seam past a FH just below the top to rap anchor. Gear Beta: Crucial gear for the hard move below the final bolt is gkijv tqem (two letter shift alphabetic code- don't decode if you want the full onsight experience). When rapping be careful to keep the rope out of a thin crack where it will jam badly. FA: Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 2007 | 22 | 20m, 1 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
20 |
Skippy Takes a Shortcut
Interesting climbing on steep rock that appears fragile but holds up quite well. This supersedes a weak previous route "An Imaginary Life". Take wires, slings and cams to 2.5 Friend (Red Camalot). The current descent is to scramble around to the rap anchor for "Hop Skip and Thump" but it really needs its own rap anchor. Start about 15m R of Let X=X on the R side of a boulder at the foot of the chimney-gully, being careful not to step on Skippy's bones. Bridge between boulder and face and pull onto face (FH) and up shallow crack in face to overhang. Directly through overhang and up face (2FH) and on to top. Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman climbed the original route in March 1992. Loughran and Norm Booth did the direct version November 2007. FA: Keiran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1992 | 15 | 15m, 3 | |||||
21 |
Spare Ribs
Takes rib/arete about 4 metres right of 'Skippy' Takes A 'Short Cut'. FA: Keith Lockwood & Peter Canning, 2009 | 15 | 30m | |||||
22 |
Skippity Do Dah
Sherpa Tim leads the geriartrics to glory up this short but intense number. FA: Tim Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 2009 | 23 | 10m | |||||
23 |
Open Project
The steep seam and face at the far right hand end of the crag. Warning one of the bolts may be loose on this. Take a spanner with you | 15m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
15 | Skippy Takes a Shortcut | 15m, 3 | |||
Spare Ribs | 30m | ||||
15 R | Epsilon Plus | 21m | |||
16 | ★ | Schooner | 30m | ||
17 | Skip Transit Gloria | 13m, 2 | |||
18 | ★★ | Crossfire | 25m | ||
20 | ★★ | Benn Gunn | 40m | ||
★ | Speaking French | 15m, 4 | |||
20 R | Mistaken Identity | 15m | |||
The Visiting Bloke | 20m | ||||
21 | Buried Standing Up | 12m | |||
★★ | Iron In the Soul | 15m, 4 | |||
★★ | Let X=X | 20m | |||
21 R | Identity Crisis | 15m | |||
22 | ★ | Full Face Value | 15m, 3 | ||
Hop Skip and Thump | 20m, 1 | ||||
22 X | Decadant Bolting | 15m, 2 | |||
23 | Ordinary Bolted Arete | 18m | |||
Skippity Do Dah | 10m | ||||
★ | Walking and Falling | 20m, 6 | |||
23 X | New Imperative | 20m | |||
24 | ★★ | Riding and Climbing | 20m, 6 | ||
? | Open Project | 15m |