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Description

A large Blue Mountains looking buttress overlooking the Western 'Highway'. Much of it is total choss.

This much-maligned cliff turned out to be a forgotten treasure. A good rediscovery by Mike. It’s a long walk in but well worth it. The new routes are all at the right end of the cliff. They are best approached by skirting around from the Beehive Falls track above Drama Wall. This takes about 1¼ hour from the road. Routes described from right to left. Start by finding Silk Road.

A topo can be found in the VCC Mt Difficult online update 2007. https://vicclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Mt-Difficult-Update_2007_08.pdf

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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Routes

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About 30m down right of Silk Road is a short corner with FH. Up past FH (crux) to ledge, then straight up middle of wall to DBB/rap station.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & David Brereton, 2001

From ledge above crux, follow curved corner on left.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & David Brereton, 2001

Reminiscent of Blimp at Bundaleer. To the right of the main Briggs Bluff face, the cliff curves around to face north west (overlooking Rose Gap), and diminishes in height. About 70m right of the bend is a major corner with a yellow wall on the right and a grey wall (undercut by cave) on the left. There is a 3m roof about 2/3 of the way up the corner. Step into the corner from the left, up and around roof, being careful of rope drag, then exit right on a ledge. Either scramble up right on jugs, or abseil 25m from tree (2m long sling needed).

FA: Mike Wust, Jeremy Boreham, James McIntosh & Norm Booth, 2001

Steep slab. Start as for Silk Road. Take a couple of cams around #1.5 - #2 for horizontal break between 3rd and 4th FH. Up Silk Road a few metres, then traverse left along break past 2FH. At 2nd FH, head straight up past another 3FH to DBB/rap station.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & David Brereton, 2001

Pleasant ramble.

  1. 35m Climb the narrow, smooth rib left of the first cave left of the northern spur (right of Redfern Estate).

  2. 25m Juggy buttress. Scramble to summit.

FA: Stu Dobbie & James McIntosh (alt), 2004

Reasonable climbing but the rock is only fair. Start 120m left of Silk Road and 10m right of a cave. (This is about 50m left of where the cliff direction turns from north west facing to north east facing). Look for a small grey corner that starts about 20m above the ground and a cairn.

  1. 35m Up wall for 18m then move left to below corner. Up corner to large ledge.

  2. 30m Up left to left end of large roof. Traverse left along horizontal chimney and ledge to a small vertical chimney. Up chimney.

  3. 30m Up crack system through bulge then easily to top.

FA: Glen Donohue & James McIntosh (alt), 2001

Excellent climbing with a thrilling roof on the third pitch. The poor rock on the start could be avoided by traversing in from the cave on the left. Start 60m left Redfern Estate and 15m right of a huge cave. Look for small twin recessed corners starting at 15 m and a cairn on the ground.

  1. 35m Up seam to break, move right then up the left hand corner.

  2. 20m The line above the tree. Belay under the big roof.

  3. 30m (crux) Through the roof then up easily.

FA: James McIntosh & Glen Donohue (alt), 2001

Left of Tripitaka is an enormous wind eroded cave. Start at the left edge of this cave.

  1. 18m Up seam/crack (crux) to right-leading roof flake. Follow this to an awkward exit on to small stance.

  2. 27m (12) Up easily above, tending slightly right, to be lay from gum tree on big ledge.

  3. 40m (14) Up short right leading ramp, then atmospherically back left along cramped ledge until possible to step on to slab above. Up this (spaced protection) to belay off large flat boulder on big scrubby ledge.

  4. 15m (18) Boulder problem start through overhang then step up left around roof and follow horizontal break in side wall of roof out right to prow (enjoyably exposed), and so to summit.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & David Brereton (alt), 2001

Very good face climbing but a bit run-out on the second pitch. Take lots of small and medium cams. Start roughly 10m left of The Way of All Flesh, just left of the next cave down. (Note that Marco Polo is about 30m further left).

  1. 45m Step left onto juggy rib then up the left hand line on the steep face above the cave. Belay at tree.

  2. 35m Straight up black wall then take the flake through the pale bulge. Wander up the wall above. (Run-out though there are some runners up left).

  3. 15m (Crux) Boulder through the roof then move right and finish about 2m left of the corner.

FA: Glen Donohue & James McIntosh (alt), 2001

A long long way away from the road. A thin crack on the left side of the massive Briggs Bluff cliff-line. First ascent team walked up from Centurion Walls.

FA: Gareth Llewillen, Neil Monteith & James McIntosh, 2002

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