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Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Routes

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Grade Route

Near the centre of the crag, at it’s highest point, is a small pale slab approximately 7m above the ground. Climb up to below the hanging corner/overlap. (Crux) Climb up to, and up, the corner and over the bulge at the top of the slab. Continue up, heading slightly right, then up the right-facing corner at the top of the wall until an overhang is reached. Move left and then climb the arete to the top.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1993

Up wall 4 metres right of The B. Desh Memorial Buttress and immediately right of a substantial conifer. Pull through overhang two metres right of the pale slab at 7 metres, on BDMB, and up to distinctive left facing flake. Up right to climb right wall of BDMB’s final corner. Move right up ramp near the top to avoid a loose block.

FA: Chris Baxter & Geoff Gledhill, 2000

Approximately 100m right of the B. Desh Memorial Buttress is a large boulder. It has a thin diagonal crack and one end is shaped like an egg. “Iron cross” into the diagonal line then head up the diagonal crack for 6m to a horizontal break. Hand traverse left to a stance and then follow the thin seams up the slab (RPs).

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1993

5-10mins right of the B. Desh Memorial Buttress is an outcrop with some overhangs. Start at the main corner at the right end. Climb onto the undercut arete on the left and head up and right into the line. Keep left to avoid vegetation until it’s possible to climb the final corner.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 1993

Head right from Haddock’s Revenge to the left end of a large crag. Continue along some broken buttresses until the crag steepens into a wall with two prominent crack-lines that are undercut. The left one splits into two thin cracks at about 20m, and the right one turns into a corner. This is the left crack.

  1. 25m Climb up into the undercut, overhanging chimney and then bridge up until it’s possible to climb up steeply on large holds (crux). Continue up to where the crack splits and follow the cracks to a small stance.

  2. 15m Climb the slabs to an abseil tree.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1993

Climb the crack to the right of Gariwerd Dreaming.

FA: Norm Booth & Robert Marshall, 1993

Start 50m to the right of Gariwerd Dreaming. Climb up 2m to an undercut wall then step onto the natural cairn feature and breach the bulge. Climb the wall on pockets until they become slopes then move right and up to a rest. Head up the overhanging crack-line left of the corner and then up a groove in the wall above. Continue up until the groove peters out and move right to a left-trending crack system that leads to the top.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 1993

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