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Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Routes

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Grade Route

50m up the gully from Catch The Wind, below two left-leaning cracks, and just right of an undercut section.

  1. 20m Head up right to a flake and then climb this until it’s possible to move left and up to a cramped belay under an off-width in the roof.

  2. 20m Traverse right to a big ledge.

  3. 15m Climb the weakness above the left end of the ledge.

  4. 20m Head up the crack.

FA: James McIntosh & Mick Jennings, 1998

If you skip the top pitch and scramble off left this turns into a really good grade 14. There is a large corner system on the left side of the main slab. This climb is to the left of this on an arete and starts on a terrace a little way up the descent gully.

  1. 35m Head up the right edge of the wall and step around the arete to belay under the roof.

  2. 35m Climb up awkwardly through the weakness in the roof and then move right to belay at a corner.

  3. 15m Climb the crack to a ramp.

  4. 15m (Crux) Take the steep crack and then move right to the arete and continue up.

FA: James McIntosh & Mike Wust (varied leads), 1994

10m right of a large flake leaning against the slabby face.

  1. 45m Climb up an easy slab until it’s possible to belay under the first overlap.

  2. 20m Climb up the break above and then go left through the second overlap. Head left and up to below a small overhang for the belay.

  3. 25m Go back down a little then left to the end of a long ledge to belay.

  4. 30m Head leftward to reach the other end of the ledge.

  5. 35m Go left to the bottom of a large chimney and climb it to finish below a very large chockstone.

FA: ross taylor & Rob Taylor, 1994

The original description was written up six years after the climb was done, so is a tad vague. Head up diagonally left along a narrow ramp at the lip of the retaining wall of a sickle feature. Roughly follow the sickle feature up the walls (which are hard to protect) until it’s possible to move up right on a large vegetated ramp.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1982

150m right of the descent gully is a major line splitting a prow.

  1. 32m Follow a crack up to below an overhang.

  2. 35m Climb the steep crack and the short difficult corner to a ledge.

  3. 46m Head around right, go to the large corner, and then climb this to the top.

FA: ross taylor & Rob Taylor, 1994

Approximately 50m right of First Blood, left of a prominent arete, is a major corner high up on the cliff.

  1. 25m Start below the arete and head up the slab. Climb through the overlap at the flake and then move left to belay under the corner.

  2. 25m Go up and along the major flake.

  3. 25m Head up the cracks immediately left of the arete.

  4. 25m Continue up the cracks.

FA: James McIntosh & Melanie McIntosh, 1998

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