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Description

The large orange cliffs running east from Tilwinda Falls. Much of the rock is broken looking and quite steep. There is some potential for sport routes on clean blocky faces, slabs and big roofs. Natural lines are few and far between, and usually consist of rubbish rock.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

From the Troopers Creek campground follow the tourist track to Tilwinda Falls (this is not the same track as the regular Mt Difficult track). When the tourist track suddenly steepens and arrives at cliffs, cross the creek on the left and scramble up to the orange cliff-line. Walk along and up to the left (steeply) keeping as close as possible to the cliff base. Five minutes from the creek crossing you will reach the original Wayne Maher route. 15 minutes walk all up.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

A bit loose or as Bangla would say "This is the worst route I have ever seconded." Midway betwen 'Spectre' and the right hand end of the cliff is a small descent gully. This route is 10m right of this.

FA: Wayne Maher, Peter Watling & Rob Parker, 1990

One of the major lines of the cliff. Sustained climbing on excellent rock. Starts 400m left of the creek at good looking clean corner.

  1. 18m (21) The corner to the small roof, left around this and onto the ledge.

  2. 30m (21) Move the belay 3m right to below the continuation of the corner. Through the roof (bolt) and up the corner to the top.

FA: Wayne Maher & Peter Cunningham (alt leads), 1990

Approximately 40m left of Spectre is a left-ward rising ramp.

  1. 35m Head up the ramp and over the bulge, then climb the left-leaning corner to belay under the short chimney.

  2. 30m Climb the chimney a short distance, then go up the right arete of the gully.

FA: Mike Wust & Kevin Lindorff (alternate leads), 1999

From the creek follow the cliff along past a cave (20 minutes) and the first major descent gully (10 minutes) to a prominent left curving corner and roof line. This can (apparently) be seen from the camp site.

  1. 30m (18) Surmount the initial overhang and move along the ledge to below the line. Follow the left curving corner line to a stance below the second (upper) roofs.

  2. 20m (18) Traverse left 3m, then move up to a break in the ceiling above. Right around through this to the top. (Exit gully on the left.)

FA: Derek Vissor, Wayne Maher (alt leads), Ann Scholes, Peter Cunningham, Andrew Webb & Glen Donohue, 1989

The MAJOR line 8m left of 'Spectre'. Incomplete aid scarefest (of choss) and not recommended. Full aid rack required including hooks, pitons - anything goes.

  1. 15m (14 M1) Scramble up first few metres to reach overhung thin crack. Up and over this to wide crack which turns into a protectionless chossy easy corner. Arrive at sloping ledge and single bolt belay. If you are sane rap off here with skull intact.

  2. 17m (10 M6) OK - you asked for it. Incomplete. Out left and up overhung wall on poor quality rock, trying to make anything hold your weight. After 8m of sketchy rubbish a thin crack appears which quickly disintegrates as quickly as it appeared. A real crack arrives courtesy of a large loose block, which moves alarmingly when gear is put behind it. Neil ripped four pieces in a row here, placed a bolt and rapped off vowing never to return. The loose block should be treated with extreme caution. It effectively blocks further progress unless another aid bolt is placed on the blank wall to the side.

FA: Neil Monteith (aid solo), 11 Aug 2008

Activity

Check out what is happening in Troopers Creek Cliff.