A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1. Main Cliff 14 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Main Cliff 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.165869, 142.540667
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
description
A small cliff with easy access and some good lines packed in on good quality rock. Originally noted for a couple of good quality crack climbs it now has several good face/slab climbs at a harder grade.
access issues
On the prioritised assessment list
approach
The cliff is directly in line with the exercise equipment on the corner of Grampians Rd and Tymna Drive, approx 4km south of Halls Gap.. Walking directly to the cliff will take you through more gullies and thistles than is necessary. Instead walk 100m south to the edge of the large open area, cross the creek and walk back 100m on the other side. The cliff is 50m uphill obscured by trees.
descent notes
Short walk/scramble down RHS (facing out)
ethic
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
The Lucky Country
At the far left end of main face, now largely covered by a tree. Boulder to diagonal. Left through bulge; #4 RP. Mantel, up. FA: Bo, Jeremy Boreham, James McIntosh & Phillip McMillan, 1997 | 21 | 15m | |||||
| 2 |
Cross Dressing
Start as for 'New Wave? Microwave!' below the small broken roof. Up, passing vegetation and some suspect rock. FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton & Rhyl Shaw, 1993 | 16 | 15m | |||||
| 3 |
★ New Wave? Microwave!
The prominent diagonal heading L to R starting behind the pinnacle at LH end of cliff. Up groove with detached flake then follow diagonal up right. FA: Chris Baxter, David Gairns & Maureen Gallagher, 1987 | 16 | 25m | |||||
| 4 |
★ Old Crumpet
Thin cracks 2m right of 'New Wave? Microwave!' FA: Wayne Maher & Glen Donohue, 1993 | 21 | 15m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 5 |
★ On The Lam
Good fun with two bouldery cruxes. Effectively a sport climb with a little trad to get you to the top once the difficulties are over (A medium cam for the obvious horizontal and a small wire after that). Start as for Gambolling Lambs, then move left to shallow corner. At the third bolt step left onto the face and up on thin holds to the major break, then more easily to the top. FA: Martin Jackson, 1 May 2021 | 23 | 20m, 3 | |||||
| 6 |
★ Gambolling Lambs
Super balancy, delicate climbing up the middle of the dimpled wall to the left of Spare Rib. Start just to the left of big tree, 3m left of Spare Rib. Stick clip the first bolt to protect the starting move. Strenuous and balancy pull onto the wall, then up to the shallow pocket. Step right to find some shallow edges, then back left and up. At the fifth bolt, step left onto the face to finish. FA: Martin Jackson, 1 May 2021 | 23 | 20m, 5 | |||||
| 7 |
★ Spare Rib
Left-most of four prominent lines, crack climb towards the left end of the main face, near a large Eucalypt. Hard start off ground, follow line to top. Hollow sounding flakes high on left of climb. Some very large blocks at top. shallow left-facing corner About 15m right of 'New Wave? Microwave!'. FA: Maureen Gallagher, Chris Baxter & David Shirra, 1987 | 18 | 20m | |||||
| 8 |
★ Spare Frock
A good face climb at a moderate grade linking the start of Spare Rib with the finish of Frock From Hell. Start as for Spare Rib and move up to around 5m before swinging right onto the face to gain a small ledge below a FH. Up and right and slightly run-out to the second FH. Up to the crack and finish up that on small cams/wires. FA: Martin Jackson, 1 Sep 2021 | 18 | 20m, 2 | |||||
| 9 |
★★ Frock From Hell
Straight up the sustained main wall between Spare Rib and Udder Shudder. Established with "minimal pro" and with no known repeats, the FA agreed to a retrobolt to make this sane. Probably a grade easier without the threat of death. Start 3m left of Udder Shudder. Up the face with RPs to start (or very high stick clip) to meet up with crack in the final headwall. FA: Glenn Tempest, Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 1993 | 24 | 20m, 3 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 10 |
★ Udder Shudder
Left crack on right end of main face. Leads to an excellent finger-crack. FA: Chris Baxter, Maureen Gallagher & David Shirra, 1987 | 19 | 20m | |||||
| 11 |
★★ Skirt Alert
Right hand crack on right end of main face, 3m right of Udder Shudder. FA: Chris Baxter, Maureen Gallagher & David Shirra, 1987 | 18 | 20m | |||||
| 12 |
★ Bucolica
Pastoral Poetry. Elegant climbing up the rounded arete to the right of Skirt Alert finishing up the crack in the headwall. Start 3m right of Skirt Alert. Pull onto the first bulge and step left to gain the small pea-pod. At the top of this step right onto the face, reaching over the bulge to gain the bolt. A hard move gets you to the good horizontal, then continue up the thin seam/crack directly above with some good edges and finger locks. FA: Martin Jackson, 17 Oct 2021 | 23 | 20m, 1 | |||||
| 13 |
★ Cocky Calamity
Excellent seam / crack at R end of main face. Reachy start (could be 21 if you're tall) leads to sustained climbing up the line. FA: Geoff Little, Chris Baxter & Maureen Gallagher, 1987 | 22 | 20m | |||||
| 14 |
The Crox
Needs a clean but will be quite good. Corner 15m up right of Cocky Calamity. Turn overhang on right and finish up groove above. FA: Chris Baxter & David Gairns, 1988 | 17 | 18m | |||||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 16 | Cross Dressing | 15m | |||
| ★ | New Wave? Microwave! | 25m | |||
| 17 | The Crox | 18m | |||
| 18 | ★★ | Skirt Alert | 20m | ||
| ★ | Spare Frock | 20m, 2 | |||
| ★ | Spare Rib | 20m | |||
| 19 | ★ | Udder Shudder | 20m | ||
| 21 | ★ | Old Crumpet | 15m | ||
| The Lucky Country | 15m | ||||
| 22 | ★ | Cocky Calamity | 20m | ||
| 23 | ★ | Bucolica | 20m, 1 | ||
| ★ | Gambolling Lambs | 20m, 5 | |||
| ★ | On The Lam | 20m, 3 | |||
| 24 | ★★ | Frock From Hell | 20m, 3 |