A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Kieran Loughran alex Campbell Gome benjamin james eichler Doug McConnell Brendan Heywood Wojjy Alex Trnovsky Steve Gretton benwiessner
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1.
Red Rock Area
277 in Crag
- 1.1. Band Of Gypsies 37 in Crag
-
1.2.
Red Rock Pinnacles 75 in Crag
- 1.2.1. Pellant Pinnacle 6 in Sector
- 1.2.2. Espanol Pinnacle 6 in Sector
- 1.2.3. Vertebrae Pinnacle 4 in Sector
- 1.2.4. Kentucky Block 5 in Sector
- 1.2.5. North Pinnacle 12 in Sector
- 1.2.6. South Pinnacle 18 in Sector
- 1.2.7. Back Wall 12 in Sector
- 1.2.8. Marianas Trench 12 in Sector
- 1.2.9. Skull Cave 0 in Boulder
- 1.3. Featherswords 2 in Cliff
- 1.4. Gallery No. 1 2 in Crag
- 1.5. Crag X 96 in Crag
-
1.6.
Picasso Block 4 in Crag
- 1.6.1. Dali Wall 1 in Cliff
-
1.7.
The Solarium 13 in Crag
- 1.7.1. Ballbag Amphitheatre 5 in Sector
- 1.8. Redneck Paradise 0 in Crag
- 1.9. Queensland Cliff 2 in Crag
- 1.10. Eagle Rock 3 in Crag
- 1.11. Scoop Rocks 23 in Crag
- 1.12. Sherpa Rocks 6 in Crag
- 1.13. Valley Crag 3 in Crag
- 1.14. Canyon Crag 7 in Crag
- 1.15. The Grandstand 4 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Red Rock Area 277 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: -37.228858, 142.267873
The land has recently changed hands and the farmer does not want people crossing the property.
There is a stupid amount of '3-cornered jacks' all over the paddock, which will cover your shoes, socks and pants and you will spend more time pulling them out than walking the long way (not to mention any further spreading of this weed is very bad).
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
access issues
All crags are within the Vic Range RNA (Remote and Natural Area). Crags within SPA's have been noted.
approach
Do NOT approach any of the crags in this area across the paddocks from Red Rock Road.
Follow the tracks just outside the southern or northern boundaries of the farmland until able to move around the farmland to the area you are going.
ethic
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
1.1. Band Of Gypsies 37 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.220399, 142.262075
description
A pleasant group of sunny walls, pinnacles and terraces lining the gully immediately north of Red Rock Pinnacles.
Great in cool, sunny weather, not so if it's warm.
access issues
Not actually within any SPA.
approach
To climb at the lower end of Band of Gypsies, wander across to the end of the vehicle track, cross the creek, turn L and walk up to the cliff line and follow it uphill to the first climbs. The Grand Oral Disseminator being the obvious line.
To reach the upper section, follow some cairns up to the Cave Boulder, which is directly in front of "Dutch Courage".
Descent: For the lower walls walk off the west or the east ends via the chasm gully. There are plenty of abseil options.
Beyond the chasm the best option is to abseil, either from the chains and slings indicated or from one of many bollards*. The best scramble descent is via narrow rib at the top (east) end of the main crags.
This rib is in a gully just in from the north-east toe of the buttress.
TIP: For abseil descents; please BYO rope slings; for some climbs the ones in place are still serviceable; but slings deteriorate very quickly and end up as useless tat.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
These are the first few climbs to be reached, the Grand Oral Disseminator being the obvious line. These first climbs are described as you come to them (R to L). | ||||||||
2 |
★ Over The Top
Bridge trench to steep finish. Start: Scramble into belay niche behind pinnacle. FA: . Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005 | 13 | 25m | |||||
3 |
Heavy Milk, Light Beer
Easy crack left of "Bulldozer In The Background". FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005 | 13 | 17m | |||||
4 |
★★ The Upside of Anger
Move onto bollard, arrange gear and up to FH. Straight up diagonal seams. Start: Start as for "Heavy Milk, Light Beer" FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005 | 17 | 18m, 1 | |||||
5 |
Bulldozer In The Background
Crack in left wall of chimney until crack ends. Chimney, or face climb arête, then exit onto left wall, finishing steeply under branch of gum tree. Start: Start at chimney left of buttress left of "Queen of Der". FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005 | 10 | 20m | |||||
6 |
★★★ Grand Oral Disseminator
Watch out for skating cams and feet on the slick rock. FA: Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert, 2005 | 27 | 25m, 1 | |||||
7 |
Private Parts
Major crack system around left of "Grand Oral Disseminator", behind boulder. FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005 | 21 | 26m | |||||
8 |
★ Squeezed Out
Off-width corner/crack 5m L of "Private Parts". Take several #5 cams FA: Pfrunder & Malcolm Matheson FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert, James Pfrunder & Malcolm Matheson, 2005 | 21 | 13m, 2 | |||||
UPPER SECTION: It is actually easier to describe these climbs L to R - since most parties will walk up the hill to check out the mostly bolted Mad Cow area, and work down from there; which makes finding the routes much easier!! | ||||||||
10 |
Gypsy, Sun And Rainbow
Stick clip first FH, and up it, as for "Bury Me Standing". Up and left to horizontal seam and wire placement. Up past FH to vertical crack and easy ground. Start: Start as for "Bury Me Standing" FA: Nick Kiraly & Steve Holloway, 2005 | 22 | 18m, 2 | |||||
11 |
Bury Me Standing
Stick clip first FH, bridge to first holds, stepping right into base of right-leading seam. Up over bulges (2 FHs) to stance at base of rotten crack. Arrange gear, step left and up jugs to top. Start: Start at far end of an orange wall / semi-detached pinnacle just uphill from Mad Cow. FA: Steve Holloway & Nick Kiraly, 2005 | 21 | 18m | |||||
12 |
★★ Mad Cow
Pretty exciting stuff. Traverse left past 3 FH on flake, then pull over onto slab. Rap off slings. A worthwhile extended finish has been done by continuing up and L into 2nd runnel, finishing about 5m higher. Start: Start as for "Crazy Like A Fox" FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005 | 20 | 22m, 3 | |||||
13 |
Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy (BSE)
Interesting alternate finish to "Mad Cow". At the 2nd FH, make a move R onto slab, then up this to slings. FA: Michael O'Reilly, Steve Chapman & Ross Timms, 2006 | 20 | 25m | |||||
14 |
★★ Crazy Like a Fox
Reachy moves up unlikely, pocketed face. Short people might want to add a grade or so. Start: Start at right-leading ramp. FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005 | 19 | 22m | |||||
15 |
★ Steve Holloway Route
FA: Steve Holloway, 2005 | 20 | 15m | |||||
16 |
★★ Nick Route
FA: 2005 | 22 | 15m | |||||
17 |
★ Slow Burn
FA: Mick Hampton & Geoff Butcher | 20 | 20m | |||||
18 |
★★ Arrested
Sustained laybacks on perfect finger locks and edges. Take medium wires and cams. Starts at hanging crack 20m downhill from Mad Cow. FA: Neil Monteith, 2005 | 24 | 15m | |||||
19 |
Flashing Eyes
Blocky Line up left of "Gypsy Swing" with a fiery second pitch.
FA: Micahel Hampton & Sharyn George (alt), 2005 | 19 | 36m, 2 | |||||
20 |
Steal My Fingers
Step up and left onto wall following diagonal (small wires) to easier finish. Rap Chain. Start: Start as for "Gypsy Swing". FA: Nic Kiraly & Steve Holloway, 2005 | 20 | 18m | |||||
21 |
★ Gypsy Swing
Unsercut arete left of "Band Of Thieves" swinging in from the left on a diagonal. Rap Chain. FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005 | 17 | 18m | |||||
22 |
Band Of Thieves
Obvious clean-cut corner-handcrack, easing up after the first several metres. Trend L at the top to rap chain above Gypsy Swing. Might have been done earlier as there was a little white square already in-situ. FA: FRA Tim Marsh, 2003 | 19 | 23m | |||||
23 |
★★ Over Committed
Grit-style arete first climbed ground-up and retro-bolted to make it sane. R and downhill from Band of Thieves. FA: Neil Monteith & Mick Hampton, 2005 | 20 | 20m, 2 | |||||
The following routes are probably out of order; but hopefully those in the know can put them in their right place. | ||||||||
25 |
Queen Of Der
A tasty excursion. Start: Start as for "Eloquence Of Speech". FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2006 | 21 | 26m, 2 | |||||
26 |
Eloquence Of Speech
Climb wall behind small pinnacle to horizontal break, then small edges past FH to easier ground, finishing steeply at juggy break. FA: Steve Holloway & Nic Kiraly, 2005 | 21 | 20m | |||||
27 |
Rag And Bone
Steep bucket-pulling with some brittle chicken-heads. Start: Start at toe of semi-detached pinnacle. FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005 | 11 | 40m | |||||
28 |
Reading Palms
Grassy corner on left end of semi-detached pinnacle. FA: Steve Holloway & Peter Mills, 2005 | 14 | 18m | |||||
29 |
Dutch Courage
Steep, right-facing corner left of "Blogger". FA: Mark Gould & Boudewijn Docter, 2005 | 20 | 18m | |||||
30 |
Blogger
Climb corners to the top, with a rest on the big flake forming first corner. Start: Start as for "Transylvanian Trad". FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005 | 15 | 20m | |||||
31 |
Transylvanian Trad
Go up and right to diagonal crack and follow this and cracks to easy wall. Don't rap from bollard or you'll end up in the trees: continue to top Start: Start at wall left of orange undercut. FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005 | 20 | 20m | |||||
32 |
Bohemian Ridge
Mixed climbing with a short crux. The gully L of "Nice Knobs" is blocked by a black slab. FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005 | 16 | 45m | |||||
33 |
Nice Knobs
Climb the right side of the recessed ramp and wall up left of the chasm. FA: Sharyn George & Michael Hampton, 2005 | 12 | 40m | |||||
34 |
Read Rover
Enjoyable face with good gear. FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005 | 18 | 25m | |||||
35 |
In A Dark Wood Wandering
Go diagonally right up the juggy grassland to slightly awkward exit up right-leading crack. FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005 | 12 | 18m | |||||
36 |
A Fortune Teller
Diagonally right up the grassland as for"In A Dark Wood Wandering" to the right-R leading crack. Step across to west-facing headwall of undercut pinnacle and horizontal breaks. Step left and up. Take slings for abseil. Start: Start as for "In A Dark Wood Wandering". FA: Sharyn George & Michael Hampton, 2005 | 13 | 25m | |||||
37 |
Dead Horses
From chock-stone climb directly up to FH. Pull onto ramp and climb juggy orange headwall to top. FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005 | 16 | 27m, 1 | |||||
38 |
Johnny Depp
Go up seams then traverse delicately right to below orange bulges (wires). Rock onto bulge and step right to second bulge and cams. Crank up and over right to left-leading exit crack. Start: Start on the left between some pines. FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005 | 20 | 23m | |||||
39 |
Errol Flynn
Diagonal cracks in black streak right of "Johnny Depp" to bolt. Step left and follow left-hand line through bulges. Go right a bit and straight up. FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005 | 18 | 20m, 1 | |||||
40 |
Steptoe And Scum
Take diagonal seams on nose to left side of bulge in orange headwall. Start: On the uphill side of semi-detached pinnacle is a corner. Start at nose left of this corner. FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005 | 20 | 18m |
1.2. Red Rock Pinnacles 75 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -37.221659, 142.260874
summary
Varied, shady sport climbing close to the road - what's not to like.
description
This complex area has emerged from obscurity and now contains a wealth of quality sport, semi-sport and trad routes on some of the best rock in 'Victoria'. With easy access and a good variety of grades this crag is destined for popularity. The three dimensional nature of the area means you can climb in the shade all day long or be protected from light rain. The big boulder caves also offer great exploration and have the habit of eating loose shoes or carabiners. Routes have a mixture of old school hangerless machine bolts and newer ringbolts and fixed hangers. A basic trad rack is required on some of these climbs.
access issues
To be assessed. It should be noted that when overlaying map information with the GGLMP maps - Half of Red Rocks is within "SPA CV35" (the South Pinnacle), while the North Pinnacle appears to be outside the SPA. This is not conclusive. RNA.
approach
20 min cruisy walk. Park on Red Rocks road at interception with a sandy track (locked gate). Follow the sandy track to the end, turn right and continue walking for another 500m to its end. A well marked track leads up to Red Rocks.
1.2.1. Pellant Pinnacle 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.221572, 142.259784
description
Large 'boulder' nearest the cleared farmland with a bunch of rusty bolts on the west face.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
A Kilogram Of Pellant Please
Flake crack at left end of wall. FA: Rick Jeukin & Ross Meffin, 1991 | 16 | 12m | |||
2 |
Big Red Horny Thing
Blunt orange arete with large horn right of Kilogram etc. Two useless FHs which are positioned in impossible to clip situations. Ignore them and place good trad instead. Rap off bollard or continue up another 20m of rubbish juggy rock. The start is much harder than grade 14. FA: Rick Jeukin & Ross Meffin, 1991 | 14 | 10m | |||
3 |
Bottom Juice
Not very appetising and hopelessly contrived. 'Flake' (2 FHs), at right end of west wall. FA: Rick Jeukin & Ross Meffin, 1991 | 16 | 7m | |||
4 |
Kauk Is My Hero
Ron would be ashamed of this effort. left orange streak on wall right of 'Bottom Juice', then wall above to rap station. FA: Ross Meffin, 1991 | 16 | 25m | |||
5 |
An Ewok Adventure
Orange streak on right, then to Kauk Is My Hero's rap station. FA: Ross Meffin & Rick Jeukin (solo), 1991 | 14 | 25m | |||
6 |
Sharon's Face (Project)
Needs bolts. Orange face and thin flake. FA: Top-roped Sharon George, 2004 | 23 | 8m |
1.2.2. Espanol Pinnacle 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -37.221014, 142.260276
description
Narrow spire downhill from the Northern Pinnacle.
descent notes
Rap rings on top of all routes.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ No Habla Espanol
On the South East face of the pinnacle is a bottomless wide crack. Up crack (crux) on good gear then head left up rampy corner. Finish up vertical crack on jugs. Rap from bolt anchors above Je Ne Parle Pas Francais. FA: Marcel Geelen & Jac Cutter, 2002 | 16 | 14m | |||
2 |
★★ Relationship ≠ Ownership
Start 3m right of No Habla Espanol. Takes the unlikely arête feature. Set: Kent Paterson | 26 | 15m, 5 | |||
3 |
★ Je Ne Parle Pas Français
Technical slabby crimpers. Starts 3m left of 'No Habla Espanol'. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 23 | 14m | |||
4 |
★ Non Parlo Italiano
Short intense fun on great quality rock. Starts 3m left of 'Ich Spreche Nicht Deutsches', just left of small tree. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 23 | 10m | |||
5 |
★ Ich Spreche Nicht Deutsches
Short steep crack. On the north side of the pillar are two right leading lines. This one climbs the right one. When the crack runs out reach up to horizontal, then step right and up juggy groove to top. Rap off anchors above Je Ne Parle Pas Francais. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 19 | 10m | |||
6 |
★★ Human Centipede
Not on Espanol Pinnacle itself, but nearby. Right facing flake crack in gully 100m below the North Pinnacle. FA: Neil Monteith & Vanessa Wills | 20 | 12m |
1.2.3. Vertebrae Pinnacle 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.221917, 142.260313
description
Narrow pinnacle below and to the south of the main Red Rock Pinnacles.
descent notes
Lower-off rings on the top
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Get What You Paid For
Starts 2m left of Vertebrae. Pumpy underclings and nigh all footholds keep the juices flowing in the forearms. An interesting assortment of bolting technology adorns this climb. Five FH's and a u-bolt loweroff. A large wire could be useful between bolts one and two. FA: Neil Monteith Adam Demmert, 2004 | 23 | 15m | |||
2 |
★ Vertabrae
A great novelty warm-up. The route climbs the 'backbone' scoopy arete of the uphill side of the pillar past four FH's. Getting past the ever growing tree could be the crux! Rap off double rings. FA: Neil Monteith | 19 | 15m | |||
3 |
★ The Backbone
Up Verterbrae to 4th bolt then step delicatly right onto arete and around onto face (FH). Desperate move up small edges to good finger lock finish. DRB lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith, 2006 | 24 | 12m | |||
4 |
★ Sweat of Effort
Prominent leftwards leaning line on west facing wall 30m south of the Vertebrae Pinnacle. Bulgy 'Arapiles' style rock. Awkward slabby closed corner to start then pumpy traversing to finish. Good gear but needs a bit of a clean. FA: Malcolm Matheson Neil Monteith, 2004 | 23 | 20m |
1.2.4. Kentucky Block 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -37.221982, 142.260581
description
Large 'boulder' with several bolted routes on the east face, just uphill from Vertebrae Pillar.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Kentucky Fried Clippin'
Overheating sport fun for summer. Thin climbing up short rounded arete opposite 'Vertabrae'. Three FHs to double ring belay. FA: Kent Paterson Neil Monteith, 2005 | 20 | 8m, 3 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★ Monkey Punch
Start 3m right of Spanish Sahara. Start from ground off large boulders, hard moves up and over bulge then up face using right arête and face holds to double ring bolt anchor. Set: Dick Lodge, 11 Nov 2016 FA: Dick Lodge, 11 Nov 2016 | 23 | 14m, 4 | |||||
3 |
★★ Darling Nikki
Start as for 1st bolt of Spanish Sahara. Up right passing bolt to vague arete, up arete passing another bolt to Spanish Sahara double ring anchor. Set: Dick Lodge, 23 Apr 2016 FA: Dick Lodge, 23 Apr 2016 | 24 | 10m, 3 | |||||
4 |
★★ Spanish Sahara
On the ledge directly behind Conflict of Interest. Stick clip first bolt, bridge tree for 1 metre until gaining good holds in seam. Move up via thin incuts to 2nd bolt, tricky traverse left to good holds and up to double ring lower offs. Set: Dick Lodge FA: Jimmy, 26 Mar 2016 | 22 | 10m, 3 | |||||
5 |
Spanish Sahara Direct
Start directly below the 2nd bolt of Spanish Sahara from the ground. Either boulder it out to 2nd bolt or stick clip. FA: Jimmy Stephens & Jeff Porter | 26 | 10m |
1.2.5. North Pinnacle 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.221512, 142.260729
description
The lesser of the two massive blocks that make up the twin Red Rock Pinnacles.
approach
When standing at the road, this is the left of the two pinnacles, and the first one reached on the walk in.
descent notes
There is no walk down descent, you need to rap from one of the numerous lower-offs on the sport routes (may require a sketchy downclimb to the lip of the cliff)
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Grey Matter
Long gentle wall left of 'Womble'. First move off the ground is the crux. John Taylor and Mark Sewell did an un-recorded climb in this vicinity during Easter 1978. Start in the gap between the North & South Pinnacles. Pull onto the wall then follow intermittent seams up the grey wall, trending gradually rightwards. If the first move is problematic, you can bridge between the two pinnacles. FA: Keith Lockwood, Pete Canning, Norm Booth & Ed Neve, 2003 | 13 | 25m | |||
2 |
Womble
Easy juggy face on wall opposite I Just Called etc. Start on the right side just left of the arete. Rock is fragile and protection is a little sparse. This is the easiest way to the summit. FA: Gay Welders Union, 2002 | 13 | 20m | |||
3 |
So, You Think You Can Dance?
Skanky. The arete with two RBs just right of 'Womble', via the undercut direct start. 'Missing' a third bolt. Stickclip first bolt, and step across from small block oposite to gain rock. Up very fragile mega jugs onto arete. Scamper up the left side (trying to avoid Womble). Place some marginal wires in fragile rock then go up and clip third FH of 'Dislocation' (with difficulty). Finish up the arete past another FH to lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2006 | 20 R | 15m, 2 | |||
4 |
Dislocation
A much better way onto the Think You Can Dance arete via the orange face around right. Start just left of large suspended block, 3m left of Strike The First Blow and 2m right of the left arete. FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2006 | 21 | 15m, 3 | |||
5 |
★★ Strike the First Blow
On the east face in the chasm proper. Starts from large suspended chock-stone bridge. Three FH's up rounded rib leads to jug. Traverse right along break past large wire placement and FH then head straight up (FH) to chain. Route was originally climbed direct from the last FH instead of traversing off to the right on 'cheat' jugs. FA: Neil Monteith | 25 | 17m | |||
6 |
★★ Static Ticking Rampage
Scoopy steep sport route. Starts below suspended chockstone belay of STFB on backside of northern pinnacle. Up into scoop and over rooflet then easily up jugs to tricky step right onto small ledge. Blast straight up orange overhung wall above to horizontal break and finish up left past the last FH of STFB to its rap chain. 6 RBs. FA: Neil Monteith Tim Lee, 2003 | 22 | 20m, 6 | |||
7 |
A Bolt Too Far
The rising line of bulges and ring bolts. Very shady! FFA: adam demmert, Heath Black & @cathdv, 2006 | 22 | 10m | |||
8 |
Dean Moriarty
Extension of A Bolt Too Far Set: adam demmert FA: Kent Paterson, 2017 | 28 | 15m | |||
9 |
★★ Struck Twice
Zig zagging seam on orange bulging north face about 10m right of 'Static Ticking Rampage'. The last great line of Red Rocks? Five years in the making after an aborted bolting attempt by Nick and Neil in 2001. Stickclip then batman up to first UB (or attempt the V10+ direct start!) Rightwards along very sloping rail then blast straight up bugling seam above. 6 UBs and double ring lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2006 | 24 | 17m | |||
10 |
Hamstrung
On the north west corner of the pinnacle is an easy angled left facing orange corner (about 10m right of Struck Twice). Up this to meet with top of pine tree. Peer around the corner to find horizontal rising crack with occasional tufts of grass. Traverse desperately along this with nigh all footholds to end up perched on sharp rest flake. Finish up easy jugs to top. FA: Neil Monteith | 18 | 30m | |||
11 |
★★ Insha'Allah
Long admired - now climbed! The u-bolted flared shiny orange crack on the west face of the Northern Pinnacle about 5m right of 'Hamstrung'. Brutal fingerlocks to start then up short reachy corner. Campus right along slick break to final crimpy face finish. Sustained. 6 bolts and lower-off. FFA: adam demmert, 2007 FA: Adam Demmert, 2007 | 28 | 15m, 6 | |||
12 |
Better Up Than Down
4m Left of Grey Matter. Straight up to the top. First move is the crux. The rest of the climb is grade 12 up fragile featured wall. Pull over the right side of the red overhang. FA: Lewis Clarey & Abdul Rahman, 5 Dec 2014 | 16 | 30m |
1.2.6. South Pinnacle 18 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -37.221757, 142.260599
description
The bright orange wave of the west face of this pinnacle is clearly visible from Red Rock Road. It's as good as it looks! There is climbing on all four sides, which means you can escape sun or the wind depending on the season.
descent notes
The only way off is by rapping from bolted anchors. The easiest way down from the summit is the chain on Fat Fingered Freak.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Red Rock Arete
A fairly good climb, taking the L arete of the main face. Start from a ledge gained by scrambling up the boulder choked gully. Climb a short crack from the R side of the ledge then move back left to the arete and up and slightly right to more cracks leading up to the arete again. Move around left of the arete and up to a ledge (belay possible) to finish up the final, steeply overhanging arete. Double ropes a must. Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd, Peter Riddy March 89 FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd & Peter Riddy, 1989 | 23 | 35m | |||||
2 |
★★ English Rose
A continuous pitch up the centre of the face, gradually steepening as it goes. Desperate friction moves (mossy) 5m left of 'Redback' lead past a FH to a slim groove. Up left past 2no of FH to gain a thin crack which leads to the prominent diagonal. Continue more easily up the left leading diagonal crack to a thin vertical crack. When the crack ends, lurch left to gain another overhanging crack, which leads to the top & lower off anchor. First pitch is clean as a whistle. FA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson, 1989 | 26 | 45m | |||||
3 |
★★ Redback
A fine face pitch leads to wild swings through the top overhang. 1) 25m (24) Climb tenuously past a FH 10m L of the R arete and continue R-ward past 2no of FH. Up and R to good slots and continue diagonally R to gain short groove and the ledge on SW arete. Possible to head point / top rope from dang's anchor. 2) 30m (25) Up to gain the prominent undercut 'jug' on the arete (2 RB's). Heave over the roof and up to a rest. Now straight up arete, it gets easier to the top. Lower off anchor in small cave. FA: Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson & Martin Scheel, 1989 | 25 | 55m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
4 | ★★ Redback pitch 1 | 24 | 25m | |||||
5 |
★★★ Parkour Kids
Outrageous climbing. Starts as Redbacks pitch 2. After second RB veer left to obvious rest ledge on arête. Follow line of RB's left up the stunning rock on hidden pockets and edges. Rest in corner then power up steep finale. Recommend backclimb to clean. Extending first 3 draws is recommended. We used the following (1st RB 60cm, 2nd RB = 90cm, 3rd FH = 120cm) FA: Kent Paterson | 26 | 30m, 9 | |||||
6 |
★★ Cloak of Darkness
Starts as Redbacks pitch 2. After second RB veer left to obvious rest ledge on arête. Follow line of FH's veering left up the spectacular orange face. Rope drag is an issue: a long draw (60cm) on the first and third bolts are recommended. Beware when lowering the climber as rope will most likely not reach the ground. FA: Kent Paterson | 25 | 30m, 7 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Redback pitch 2
FA: Steve Monks | 25 | 20m | |||||
8 |
★ Dang
An alternative first pitch to 'Redback'. Starts 10m down and left of 'Conflict of Interest' at prominent arête between west facing orange wall and south facing grey wall. Nice balancy climbing with three FH's. Belay on ledge at DBB. FA: Neil Monteith Malcolm Matheson, 2004 | 20 | 9m | |||||
9 |
★ Red Ragging
One for the peak baggers. The easiest route on the southern pinnacle. Scramble up the S face to a ledge on the SW arete. Traverse right above red overhang with poor pro then climb directly to the top on juggy grey rock. FA: Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks & Peter Riddy, 1989 | 17 | 30m | |||||
10 |
★ The Propaganda Machine
Starts 3m right of 'Red Ragging' on south face of southern pinnacle. Up and left on orange rock with no gear to left leading small crack through bulge at 5m. Stem through bulge and swing out left to meet up with 'Red Ragging'. Follow it for a few metres then head diagonally right aiming for the prominent left leaning orange corner. Up corner using jugs on big hollow sounding block to finish with bouldery left traverse to ledge. FA: Neil Monteith | 19 | 35m | |||||
11 |
★ Full Metal Vengeance
This one's for 'Justin Thyme'. A long juggy wall climb with a hard roof move down low. Start as for 'Conflict of Interest' on the south face of the southern pillar. At COI's first FH step left to UB and power through awkward roof and vague finger crack to stance. Up with a slight right trend past five further UB's to the same anchor as COI. Beware the runout just before the anchor. Some medium wires could be useful if you aren't feeling bold. FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schimdt, 2005 | 23 | 26m, 6 | |||||
12 |
★★ Conflicting Vengeance (Linkup)
Links the start of 'Conflict of Interest' into the excellent juggy finish of 'Full Metal Vengeance'. Cross over at COI's third bolt. FA: Neil Monteith, 2005 | 19/20 | 30m | |||||
13 |
★ Conflict of Interest
Popular. Sport climbing up a grey techincal face on nubbins. Starts about 5m right of 'Red Ragging' on far right side of the south face. Wander up ultra grey jugs for 6m until you reach the red scooped rock (FH), step right then up through small roof then onwards past seven ringbolts to DRB lower off. Grade depends on how direct you pull the roof move. The further right you go the easier it gets! FA: Neil Monteith | 20 | 25m, 7 | |||||
14 |
★★ Chrysalis
Rising techincal traverse and crimpy face out left from 'Fat Fingered Freak'. From FFFs 2nd bolt head hard left on shallow slots to big break. Shake, then crimp like a fiend to next big break. Finish up further thin stuff to lower-off. 4th bolt is hard to clip without extension. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 27 | 20m, 6 | |||||
15 |
★★ Fat Fingered Freak
Pumpy with some novelty moves. Located 10m right of Conflict Of Interest in shaded chasm. Bouldery steep short corner (stickclip RB) to ledge. Step right then up left facing flake system (three RBs) to rap chain. Last bolt was added after first ascent. FA: Nick McKinnon | 23 | 18m, 4 | |||||
16 |
★★ Variance
One of the best routes here but requires trad and bolt plates so not hugely popular. Varied climbing! Starts 5m right of 'Fat Fingered Freak'. Stick clip RB from block. Jump for jug and mantle onto ledge. Clip BR and step right then trend back left along sloping orange edge (BR) to under cracked bulge. Pull through this strenuously protected by wires to jug at base of small corner. Clip BR; stem into corner for a few moves then reach out left to escape hold that leads to jugs and top. Single u-bolt lower-off WARNING - single clip and go anchor could be unsafe - please thread direct through Ubolt rather than using the biner. Single set of wires and a finger size cam is the only trad gear required. FA: Neil Monteith | 23 | 18m, 4 | |||||
17 |
★ One Ring to Bind Them
The overhung knifeblade arete about 5m right of 'Variance'. Surprisingly pumpy and sustained. And - unless it has been rebolted - remember to take a bolt plate! Stickclip RB for bouldery start then hang on for the ride up fragile sharp pockets and flakes past a BR and three UBs. This used to be mostly trad but was subsequently retroed to make it actually enjoyable. It was even solo-aided on trad by Neil as a means to get to the summit! WARNING - single clip-and-go lower off biner should not be used. Please thread directly through u-bolt. These biners can snap at very low weights. FA: Neil Monteith | 23 | 15m, 4 | |||||
18 |
I Just Called To Say I Love You
Starts 7m right of One Ring To Bind Them. Right leading ramp leads to bulge, then left past protruding knob and up. Watch for the perched block of doom. Leader slung knob for aid. FA: Gay Welders Union, 2002 | 18 M1 R | 15m |
1.2.7. Back Wall 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.221693, 142.260843
description
The mostly slabby and juggy grey wall behind (west) of the two Red Rock Pinnacles. The pillars themselves help to shade the routes here.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Bellrock
The black slabs opposite 'Static Ticking Rampage' with prominent bolts. The left line. Up the slab past three FHs. A thin crux through the bulge (well protected by bolt) and finish up the arête as for 'Gandolf the Grey'. May be easier if you are tall. Double Bolt lower off. FA: Ben Hawthorne | 21 | 25m, 6 | |||||
2 |
Gandolf the Grey
Slab climbing in the Grampians? The right hand side line past one UB and four FHs. Pass 1st FH on the right to finish up the arête to a double bolt lower off. FA: Ben Hawthorne | 17 | 25m, 5 | |||||
3 |
Wimbleton
Directly opposite 'Strike the First Blow', is a juggy wall. Start a few metres right and climb the grey face which gets easier the higher you get. At the small red cave climb out the overhung right side and up easily to ledge. There is a mystery bolted rap anchor in the cave. FA: Gay Welders Union, 2002 | 14 | 40m | |||||
4 |
Moria
Another worthless addition. Starts about 3m right of 'Wimbleton' at smooth part of grey wall. Up a few moves then right 2m. Follow easing seam, trending slightly left, to break overhang just right of the small red cave on 'Wimbleton'. FA: Keith, Tim Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 2003 | 16 | 40m | |||||
5 |
★ Height of Darkness
Face with three BRs (then natural protection) opposite Fat Fingered Freak. There is a large chain fixed around chicken heads for belay/lower off FA: Neil Monteith & Jacqui Middleton, 2003 | 15 | 20m, 3 | |||||
6 |
★ The Constant Gardener
Start 15 metres right of The Height of Darkness and follow grassy middle crackline left until it runs out. Finish up 1 metre right of The Height Of Darkness. Belay off chicken heads. FA: Louis Godsell & Jimmy Stephens | 12 | 20m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★ Bikini Bootcamp
A good warm-up route or worthwhile in its own right. Starts just right of descent gully for the 'Back Wall' routes (about 10m right of Height of Darkness) at small pillar. FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007 | 20 | 10m, 4 | |||||
8 |
★ Beached Whale (Link-up)
Climb to the 2nd bolt of Two Weeks to a Beach Body, then had left onto the vague arête of Bikini Bootcamp and then up past the last two bolts of 'BB' to lower off. | 22 | 10m, 4 | |||||
9 |
★ Two Weeks to a Beach Body
Intense plaything with a bouldery start and much easier finish. Starts 1m right of 'Bikini Bootcamp'. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 22 | 10m, 3 | |||||
10 |
★ Anniversary Equation
Arete / face downhill from Bikini Bootcamp. Start up RH side of slabby grey rib (as for Gimli) to base of undercut arete, up arete / wall past 3 x FH to lower off FA: Steve Holloway & Amanda Holloway, 24 Apr 2014 | 19 | 12m, 4 | |||||
11 |
Gimli
Starts 3m right of 'Bikini Bootcamp'. Climb easy-angled grey rib for about 7m, step left then steeply to top of pinnacle. Descent can be accomplished over the next pinnacle or off the rap anchors on 'Bikini Bootcamp'. FA: Ray Lassman, Keith & Tim Lockwood, 2003 | 14 | 25m | |||||
12 |
★★ The Impossible Corner Project
Closed Project The imposing overhanging orange corner located on a ledge above Wimbelton. FA: 2012 |
1.2.8. Marianas Trench 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.221734, 142.261282
approach
Walk uphill from the northern pinnacle following cliffline until a slot canyon feature emerges on the right wall. Scramble up easy cliff and into slot to find bolted orange wall.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Wave of Mutilation
A tricky crux on sensational turtle shell rock. The route begins at the left hand end of the Trench. Follow three FH to a chain anchor. A #2 Rock will protect the start, or stick-clip the first bolt. FA: Tim Marsh | 24 | 12m | |||||
2 |
Bathysphere
Four FHs up thin orange face 3m right of 'Wave of Mutilation'. Finish is an awkward and tough mantle into the scoop with potential for hitting the back wall. FA: Tim Marsh, 2004 | 25 | 15m | |||||
3 |
★★ Spinal Tap
Would be a three star megaclassic if it wasn't tucked away in this gully. 4m right of 'Wave of Mutilation'. Chimney up the start to the first FH. Flakes, pockets and heucos lead up steep orange wall past eight FHs. Watch the lurking block behind you between the fourth and sixth bolts. FA: Neil Monteith | 23 | 20m | |||||
4 |
★★ Used Platypus Condom
Steep pumpy jug hauling on orange rock. Located on upper wall deep inside chasm. Two RB's to start then medium gear to DRB lower off. FA: Neil Monteith | 19 | 16m | |||||
5 |
★ Over And Out
Wide overhung trench 4m right of 'Used Platypus Condom'. No wide trad gear required. Surprisingly steep and interesting. Walk off descent. FA: Neil Monteith Hannah Lockie, 2005 | 18 | 13m | |||||
6 |
★★ Raver Girl
A pumpy rising traverse on gritty rock with a nails hard start. Starts 5m right of 'Over And Out' at right edge of undercut grey wall. Boulder past FH to gain horizontals. 'Monkey' leftwards across these (medium SLCD's) to a flake forming an arête. Up this arete (FH) to finish. Walk off descent. FA: Hannah Lockie Neil Monteith, 2005 | 20 | 15m | |||||
7 |
★ Raver Boy
A thin direct finish to 'Raver Girl'. Climb past first FH to horizontals. Arrange pro (medium SLCD's) and head rightwards on thin crimpers past FH to good holds. Up juggy wall past 3rd FH to top. Walk off descent. FA: Neil Monteith Hannah Lockie, 2005 | 21 | 11m | |||||
Outside the TrenchThe next few routes are on the wall to the left of the entrance of the Trench. | ||||||||
9 |
★ Aleutian Crack
The shrubbery isn't as bad as it looks! On the left side of the entrance to the Marianas Trench there is a wide crack. From the ground, scramble up on jumbled blocks for 5 meters to gain the base of the crack. A couple of layback moves take you to a grassy ledge. Climb the slab on the left of the crack to avoid some vegetation before stepping back into the line and on to the top. A big cam (4 Camalot or similar) is useful. FA: David Jupp & Tim Marsh, 2002 | 16 | 35m | |||||
10 |
★ Pike
Good, delicate and well protected slab climbing. The slab and shallow cracks 5 meters left of Aelutian Crack. Climb short grassy crack onto the slab then follow the cracks to the base of the compact red/orange corner. Move left and finish up 'Cindy'. FA: David Jupp, Tim Marsh & Michael Homfray, 2002 | 17 | 35m | |||||
11 |
Pike Direct
A direct finish up the compact red/orange corner and the arete above has been top roped in the low 20's (depending upon reach), however, both rock and protection are poor. FA: Tim Marsh & Michael Homfray, 2002 | 21 | 35m | |||||
12 |
Elver
Two meters left of 'Cindy' is a broken chimney which splits the slab in half. Start 1-2m left of this chimney (5m left of Cindy) and follow the cracks in the slab before weaving through the tufts of grass above. A tricky start with minimal gear quickly gives way to very easily protected if occasionally mossy climbing. FA: David Jupp, Michael Homfray & Tim Marsh, 2002 | 9 | 30m | |||||
13 |
Cindy
Well protected moderate slab climbing with an entertaining finish. The short chimney crack to a dog leg crack three meters left of Pike. Take the ramp up right to the base of the shallow orange corner at the apex of the wall which is passed on the right. FA: David Jupp & Tim Marsh, 2002 | 14 | 35m |
1.2.9. Skull Cave 0 routes in Boulder
description
A large hollowed out boulder with good bouldering on the inside and outside of the boulder. Even better the inside can be traversed across in various directness and is bone dry in wet weather.
approach
This boulder sits about 50m north of the slot where Wave of Mutilation on an open rock shelf.
history
Discovered by Tim Marsh in 2002 and several sub V5 problems were done by him and friends that year.
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1.3. Featherswords 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.221327, 142.263819
description
Within CV35 and in the RNA.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Errol Flynn
Diagonal cracks in black streak right of "Johnny Depp" to carrot bolt. Step left and follow left-hand line through bulges. Go right a bit and straight up. FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005 | 18 | 20m, 1 | |||
2 |
★ Johnny Depp
Go up seams then traverse delicately right to below orange bulges (wires). Rock onto bulge and step right to second bulge and cams. Crank up and over right to left-leading exit crack. Start: Start on the left between some pines. FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005 | 20 | 23m |
1.4. Gallery No. 1 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
This was the original cliff called "The Gallery" in this area but, despite much easier access than its namesake, this one has never caught on. The name has been adjusted to prevent confusion.
A few hundred metres up the north side of Red Rock Creek from Red Rock Road is a collection of chossy pinnacles. The highest and most easterly pinnacle has a long, overhanging north wall.
access issues
CV35 and RNA.
approach
Approach by walking up the north side of the creek, around the east side of the pinnacles and up the gully behind.
GR 117793
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Art For Art's Sake
Slippery finger-jamming in the striking diagonal line followed by easier but loose climbing to a dramatic finish. Start: Start from a cave passing right through the pinnacles. FA: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1989 | 21 | 35m | |||
2 | ★★ Niche Market | 22 | 20m |
1.5. Crag X 96 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: -37.228184, 142.267627
description
Crag X is a north-facing crag on the south side of Red Rock Creek with a distinctive orange wall streaked with black and white.
Scattered around this magnificent wall are a number of smaller outcrops, and these routes are also listed below (however it would probably make more sense if they were listed under a different area altogether, such as Red Rock Ck crags?). The valley is littered with boulders. It appears most have been climbed and named but which is which is anyone’s guess at this stage.
access issues
To be reviewed, although it should be noted that Crag X was listed as banned in the Draft GGLMP. It is within CV35, and the Crag-X Valley generally is known to contain Cultural Heritage sites.
ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq
approach
Park 200 metres south of the bridge over Red Rock Creek on Red Rock Road. You can spy Crag X from the road: it is the magnificent cliff on the south side of the Red Rock Creek Valley (don't get it confused with 'Queensland Cliff', which is located closer to the road but higher than Crag X and has two salient left-leaning diagonals).
A cairned track leads into the valley from the far side of the paddocks about 100m south of the creek. The track passes some small cliffs before a big blank wall is reached. The closer you get to the main wall of Crag X, the more the track becomes horrendously overgrown and impossible to follow.
Below are some historical notes about how access was once described, after the above mentioned "big blank wall". It's possible this might help you unearth the path. Good luck.
Just to the left is a short wall with some trad routes (19-22) upon it, and down by the creek is the Rivendell boulder. The next cliff is Sweet Dude block, with 3 sport routes. From here, the track veers down towards, and then along, the creek. It then passes through (!) a boulder and swings uphill past the Beard Boulder (some mega hard highball plus a few slabby sport routes) and up to the main cliff, arriving at its left hand end. The Empire of the Sun cave is just around the corner. From here the track branches off – heading down across the creek to the X Blox (2 minutes), or by continuing up the cliff line to the Solarium (10 minutes).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Scenes From Highways
Arapiles like face you see on the left when entering crag x. Located adjacent to Red Rocks, the key is to access from other side of creek via cairns. Climb up gully to reach base of route. Bridge initial blankness. Pumpy! FA: Kent Paterson, 2017 | 27 | 20m, 9 | |||||
X Blox2 great face climbs (with two easier aretes upon which to warm up) are the attraction here. From the far end of Crag X (Empire of the Sun cave) follow the cairned track down across the creek and a short distance up the other side of the valley, to arrive at the cliff after passing through a shady chasm. It faces west so stays shaded until about 2. | ||||||||
3 |
Econo-babble
Climb the left hand arête past 4 FH to anchors. FA: Bill Begg & Alex Trnovsky, Feb 2016 | 12 | 18m, 4 | |||||
4 |
★ Hard Love Cowboys
A shameless linkup. Climb past the first two bolts of Econo-babble, then step right onto the face and climb past three more bolts to the anchors. FA: Andrew 'my love is hard' Clements & Alex Trnovsky, Jul 2016 | 19 | 18m, 5 | |||||
5 |
★ *Unnamed*
Sustained climbing on small holds up the thin seam leads to better holds with big moves to the ‘best hold in the Grampians’, followed by a delicate face to gain the jugs to the top. It looks slightly contrived to stay away from the arête but the nature of the climbing dictates your ethical purity. FA: Alex Trnovsky & Ball Bagg, Feb 2016 | 22 | 18m, 6 | |||||
6 |
★★ sanitize review
According to a bunch of yobbos who directed this insightful social observation at poor old Bill whilst he was jogging through Flinders Uni one afternoon. Technical and sustained climbing up the middle of the face with a steep juggy finish. FA: Alex Trnovsky & Bill Begg, Feb 2016 | 22 | 18m, 6 | |||||
7 |
★ Tryroxine
Follow the line of bolts just right of the arête to anchors FA: Bilbo Beggins & Brett Dodemaide, Feb 2016 | 17 | 15m, 5 | |||||
Empire of the SunThe big cave at the far left end of Crag X originally contained one trad route but has been recently modernised with lots of stainless. | ||||||||
9 |
★ Solar Flare
Up and right after the 2nd bolt on the "ledge" traverse. FA: Doug McConnell & Kerrin Gale, 10 May 2015 | 23 | 18m, 6 | |||||
10 |
★★★ Interstellar
The next line right of Solar Flare. Tricky slab, amazing jugs and a spicy finish. FA: Doug McConnell & Kerrin Gale, 10 May 2015 | 22 | 25m, 10 | |||||
11 |
★ Off the Grid
Traverse the "ledge" to the final grey streak. Up this to rest in PNtT before a bouldery finale up and right on scoopy Taipan rock. FA: Doug McConnell, 6 Jul 2016 | 28 | 35m, 12 | |||||
12 |
★ Traversty
The full "ledge" traverse finishing at the ledge between pitches of PNtT. Trickier than it looks but interesting climbing on great rock. Either finish up that route or bring second across and rap off single (massive) U bolt. Take mid sized cams to belay 0.5 to 2 inch. Or finish up PNtT FA: Doug McConnell & Kerrin Gale, 10 May 2015 | 25 | 25m, 7 | |||||
13 |
★★ Promise Not to Tell
The improbable-looking left-leaning crack on the far left-hand side of Crag X, behind a huge free-standing pinnacle.
FA: Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd (alt), 1989 | 22 | 45m, 2 | |||||
14 |
★★★ Steeped in Sunshine
The awesome steep red wall above the ledge on PNtT. Start up that route (3 camalot and small cams and wires) to ledge. Build an anchor and extend to over lip of ledge for rope drag. (Double length sling). A small camalot (0.3/0.4) protects clipping the first bolt (placed high to not impact PNtT). Very pumpy, steep climbing on jugs leads to a powerful finale on immaculate rock. A 1 camalot can be placed between the last bolt and the double ring bolt lower off. A 60m rope can be used to climb in a pitch and lower to the ground. FA: Kerrin gale, 29 May 2018 | 27 | 28m, 6 | |||||
15 |
★★★ Orbital Drift
The line out the middle of the big red cave. Three sections with increasing difficulties separated by good rests. Rock quality is second to none at the top. Glory jugging up final corner to double U bolt belay. FA: Doug McConnell, 31 May 2018 | 32 | 30m, 10 | |||||
16 |
★ Romancing the Stone
Climbs the wall to the right of the huge cave. Great rock and pro. To access, traverse carefully across the slabby rock at the right hand end of the cave (easy but exposed) to the base of the wall and double bolt belay. Climb straight up to the ledge (where the Misty Wall routes start) then straight up wall above to double bolt anchors. FA: Bill Begg & Alex Trnovsky, 2016 | 15 | 20m | |||||
Misty WallFollow the natural ramp up the right side of the Empire of the Sun cave. The three routes lie on the wall above, requiring a committing scramble up the short corner. | ||||||||
18 |
★★★ Misty
An exciting spacey route with great climbing. Start on the steep arete. An exposed traverse past RB leads to a run out and delicate face with natural gear. Climb past a 2nd RB to join Misty Variant, arrange gear and top out. A yellow and green alien are useful to protect the top shallow break. FA: Benjamin Eichler, 2005 | 23 | 25m, 2 | |||||
19 |
★★ Misty [Variant]
Starting on the ledge, climb the right hand wall (on the detached block). Clip the RB on the main wall and make an exciting traverse left to gain the vertical seam. Arrange good wires and commit to a tough run out crux sequence. Place a green and yellow alien before reaching jugs as crack widens to the top. Rap from double bolts. FA: Ben Eichler & B Abernethy | 22 | 30m, 1 | |||||
20 |
★★ Alecto
A classic face climb. Start as for Misty Variant. From the first RB head straight up wall past a 2nd RB, some good natural gear (small to medium wires) and a 3rd RB which protects the crux. A powerful, run out crux sequence leads to jugs and good gear. FA: B Abernethy | 25 | 28m, 3 | |||||
Main WallA gobsmacking wall (with barely any routes on it). To the right of the main wall are some smaller offerings. | ||||||||
22 |
★★★ Labyrinths
Start: Start at the left end of the main wall
FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd (alt) & Parrish Robbins., 1989 | 25 | 50m, 2, 2 | |||||
23 |
Unknown 1
A line of rings. Might be Chris Coppard's project? | |||||||
24 |
Unknown 2
Line of fixed hangers that comes out of Unknown 1. | |||||||
25 | Unknown 3 | 2 | ||||||
26 |
A Visit From The Footbinder
The only slab for miles. Start on a detached flake 8 metres left of an arête on the large free standing block below the right end of the main cliff. FA: Louise Shepherd, Jane Wilkinson, Steve Monks & Simon Mentz, 1989 | 23 | 30m, 1 | |||||
27 |
★★★ Mysterious Journey
The left arete of the huge block leaning against the cliff about 50 metres left of "Don't Count Your X Before They Hatch"
FA: Steve Monks & Louise Shepherd, 1989 | 26 | 55m, 2, 1 | |||||
28 |
unknown
Line of old dodgy eye bolts up striking flake feature on detached block. Probably unclimbed, very hard at the top. Needs rebolting, new anchor bolts in place but no hangers. | 5 | ||||||
29 | Counting Your X Before They Hatch Direct Finish | 21 | ||||||
30 |
Counting Your X Variant Finish
Instead of exiting right at the top, launch out left along a superb hand traverse. There are two lines; one under the roof, and one two metres below, so who knows which one to take. They both look juggy albeit with a touch of loose rock and no pro, so make sure you're second isn't you... FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd & Keith Lockwood, 1989 | 21 | ||||||
31 |
★ Counting Your X Before They Hatch
The big corner at the far right-hand side of the cliff. An unheralded classic in the climb-a-line-to-the-top-of-the-cliff-adventure vein. To descend, first follow your nose up the fragile chicken heads to the top, walk back from the edge, and follow an easy gully to the right. Scramble up the easy ramp to the base of the corner to start.
FA: Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks (alt) & Keith Lockwood, 1989 | 18 | 60m, 2 | |||||
32 |
Ramble On
Enjoyable, easy ramble. To get off - back climb down and right to step onto huge rock (which forms the right hand side of the aforementioned tunnel/cave). *Tricky Bouldering to get off this on the south side, or very exposed nth side (not recommended). Start: Starts just right of "Counting Your X Before They Hatch", just left of small cave/tunnel at detached block leaning onto face. FA: Joe Goding, Lawrie Cowley & Paul Tailien, 2005 | 10 | 18m | |||||
Beard BoulderA large freestanding boulder in the valley just below the main cliff. | ||||||||
34 | ★★ Bees Knees (Sit Start (S)) | V5 | ||||||
35 |
Bite The Bullet [Open Project]
An impossible looking line up the middle of the face past 3 ring bolts. | |||||||
36 |
★ Russian Roulette
Vertical slabbing. Follow the thin line up a great closed seam past 3 RB to DBB. FA: Brendon Abernethy, 2004 | 24 | 10m, 3 | |||||
37 |
★ Culture Shock
Obvious natural crack on the east face. Tricky, pumpy start to slabby top out. FA: N Smith & Ben Eichler, 2005 | 17 | 10m | |||||
38 |
★ Chained to the Massess (s)
Sit start on left of roof. Traverse left to right to finish on jug. | V3 | ||||||
39 |
★★★ Jumping Jack Flash (s)
Under the roof of Pixie. Out and right via a sloper, then left via crimps on lip to slope, and match up to jug. | V8 | ||||||
40 |
★★ Pixie
Start right of the arête on the north-east corner, climb up to RB an then traverse left to arête. Follow arête past 3 RB to tricky top out. Rap off (either dodgy dead tree or the DBB above Russian Roulette). FA: 2004 | 20 | 10m, 4 | |||||
41 | ★ Mosquito (S) | V3 | ||||||
42 |
★ Dirty Sanchez (s)
Sit start for eye candy. | V5 | ||||||
43 |
★ Eye Candy (s)
On the north face. The black wall and seam up and right. | V3 | ||||||
Sweet Dude BlockWell before the main cliff, this orange scooped cliff appears immediately after the big smooth red wall. The routes are perfect for warming up, or even as a worthwhile destination for a quick easy-access session. | ||||||||
45 |
★ Dude
Climb the left arête to chains. Can be climbed sport, or with an optional medium cam to eliminate the runout to the last bolt. | 21 | 12m, 3 | |||||
46 |
★ I heard the word dude and I became unglued
A much better way to sample Dude's start. From the 2nd RB head up and right past 3FH to chains. FA: Alex Trnovsky & Bill Begg, 2016 | 21 | 15m, 5 | |||||
47 |
★★ Sweet
Climb the right arête past 4 RB to no anchor. It's possible to traverse left to chains, or to climb diagonally left from the last RB to chains. | 21 | 12m, 4 | |||||
Small trad wallA small trad wall with 4 short trad routes in the 19-22 range. When you reach the big blank red/orange wall, look left, and there it is. A little further towards the creek lies the Rivendell boulder with some amazing-looking hard problems upon it's overhangs. | ||||||||
49 | Mixed Lollies | 13 | 30m | |||||
50 | Mase | 16 | 20m | |||||
51 | ★ Dead Beat Traverse | V3 | ||||||
52 | ★★★ Point Blank | V4 | ||||||
53 | ★★★ Shifty (s) | V5 | ||||||
54 | ★★★ Scorched Fingers (s) | V7 | ||||||
55 | Kang (s) | V4 | ||||||
56 | Mini Mon | V5 | ||||||
57 | ★ Mezzagade | V4 | ||||||
58 | ★ Mary Poppins | V3 | ||||||
59 | ★★ Butterfly Effect ( s) | V5 | ||||||
60 |
★★★ Nogan (s)
FA: Benjamin Eichler | V6 | ||||||
61 | ★★ Black Jack | V1 | ||||||
62 | Sumba | V1 | ||||||
63 | ★★ Anti Freeze | V3 | ||||||
64 | ★★ Honey Smacks | V2 | ||||||
65 | ★★★ Sub Zero | V3 | ||||||
66 | ★★ Mr Grace | V1 | ||||||
67 | Society Overload | V0 | ||||||
68 | Ocean Linear | V5 | ||||||
69 | ★★ Cadence | V2 | ||||||
70 | ★ Grabbing at Stars | V1 | ||||||
71 | ★★★ Shaddowfax (s) | V6 | ||||||
72 | Besiden | V6 | ||||||
73 | Velour (s) | V11 | ||||||
74 | ★★ Time Lord (s) | V2 | ||||||
75 | Neighbours in Space (s) | V1 | ||||||
76 | ★★ The Tardis (S) | V3 | ||||||
77 | Light Speed (s) | V3 | ||||||
78 | Another Planet (s) | V1 | ||||||
79 | ★ 400-Light years (s) | V2 | ||||||
80 | ★ Night Sky (s0 | V2 | ||||||
81 | ★ G-Force (s) | V2 | ||||||
82 | Korendor | V2 | ||||||
83 |
★★★ Miggerra (s)
Located in Cave at right side of main wall. Sit start out R) to dyno from poor crimp to jug FA: 2005 | V8 | ||||||
84 |
★★ Medossa (s)
Traverse L) out of Miggerra | V7 | ||||||
85 | ★★ Snoop | V5 | ||||||
86 | ★ MightyMouse (s) | V3 | ||||||
87 | Spontaneous Combustion (s) | V4 | ||||||
88 | ★ Dryreach (s) | V0 | ||||||
89 | Steam Machine (s) | V6 | ||||||
90 | ★ Wound socket (s) | V2 | ||||||
91 | AC Joint (s) | V3 | ||||||
92 | Heavens Above | V1 | 6m | |||||
93 | ★ My Mumma says (s) | V0 | ||||||
94 | ★ Shopping Trolley | V1 | ||||||
95 | Isle Number 6 (s) | V2 | ||||||
96 | Check out chick (s) | V2 | ||||||
97 | Price Check (s) | V1 | ||||||
98 | Police Station (s) | V1 | ||||||
99 | ★ Jail Break (s) | V4 | ||||||
100 | ★ Caterpualt (s) | V2 | ||||||
101 | ★★ Bobet | V3 | ||||||
102 | ★★★ Ambers (s) | V5 | ||||||
103 | ★★★ Acid Jazz | V3 | ||||||
|
1.6. Picasso Block 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: -37.226630, 142.272078
description
A west-facing crag about 10 minutes walk due east of Crag X. It is distinguished by an overhanging south wall.
access issues
NV8 and RNA
approach
Once past the far end of Crag X, cross the creek then follow the gully for a bit before heading up and left. The direct route is a bush bashing nightmare.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Unknown project
The orange face has 2 bolts and a rusty pin. It looks desperate, but leads into a great looking hanging corner. | |||||
2 |
Cubism
The south-west arete of the block gives an unusual and unlikely climb. Lassoo spike at 7m and free climb from there! FA: Steve Monks, Parrish Robbins & Louise Shepherd, 1990 | 25 M1 | 40m | |||
3 |
Weeping Woman
Start: Starts at the west side of the pinnacle immediately right of the 'Picasso Block'. FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Monks (alt), 1990 | 22 | 40m |
1.6.1. Dali Wall 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.226221, 142.272540
description
A 40m high wall behind the Picasso Block.
approach
Skirt around the north side of the Picasso Block.
descent notes
Either abseil off a rock bollard (byo sling) or descend by scrambling down through the chasm on the north side of the cliff just behind where the climb finishes.
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ The Persistence of Memory
The cliff splitting crack provides great climbing and equally great gear. When it ends, continue straight up to a scenic belay. FA: Bill Begg & Alex Trnovsky, Nov 2015 | 16 | 40m |
1.7. The Solarium 13 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -37.228851, 142.270468
description
A gently overhanging wall of some of the nicest rock you'll ever fondle perched high above Crag X. A great cold weather destination, but not so good (i.e. completely dire) on a summer’s day, as it faces north, offers no shade, and has an uncanny ability to reflect the sun! The routes offer interesting and sustained climbing on great rock, and the location at the head of a broad valley, with expansive views and eagles soaring above, makes it a great place to soak up the ambience of the ranges. The climbs are sport except for one mixed route which requires a small trad rack. Some of the other routes will also accept a cam to minimise runout. There‘s oodles of unclimbed rock in the area to explore (including an amazing pocketed giant rock arch), and there are bound to be new routes waiting to be found by those willing to take the time to explore. There’s plenty of bouldering to be done, too, if you’re into that sort of thing. You might even find the obscure old hermits cave – if you do, please don’t disturb what was probably once someone’s idea of paradise!
access issues
In CV35 and RNA.
approach
From the far end of Crag X (Empire of the Sun cave - a cruisy 25 minutes on a decent track) steeply follow the broken cliff line for about 100m until confronted by another cliff. Turn right and follow the broad gully for about 50m until it is possible to veer back left along a narrow rock shelf. Follow a series of rocky ledges and ramps until you arrive at the Solarium, half way between the main cliff and Ballbag Amphitheater. Lots if cairns point the way. Total time 35 minutes.
The original approach is listed below for those who like their access to have a touch of epic. From the northern end of the gravel pit (which lies just south of Eagle Rock), head steeply north-east up the hill keeping just left of the creek, aiming for the saddle between Eagle Rock and a small outcrop on the right. This section is quite overgrown with vigorous regrowth, but following the fence-line points you in the right direction to pass just to the left of the small outcrop on the right. At the top, keep heading north-east and walk across a gentle valley before again passing between some small outcrops (with a distinctive ‘eye’ in the large boulder on your right) as you crest the next ridge. The path then descends slightly into a broad gully before swinging right and up the gully. There are lots of cairns and the odd bit of red tape to show the way. The track ends up crossing the top of the cliff and then descends an easy scramble down the gully on the eastern side of the cliff. 30 minutes.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Olaf the happy snowman
Left-hand bolted line. Up small scoop past 2 FH. When it ends, trend desperately up and left to 3rd FH, then slightly left before blasting straight up unlikely wall past 4th FH to anchors. FA: Alex Trnovsky & Bill Begg, 2015 | 24 | 4 | |||||
2 |
★★ The fucking fucker’s fucked
Aka. the cheap Chinese petrol drill route…Straight up into, and through, the main scoop past 4 FH to anchors. FA: Alex Trnovsky & Ben Weissner, 2014 | 21 | ||||||
3 |
★ The Rainbow Bracelet of Awesome Choices
Climb up just right of the scoop past 5 FH to anchors. It might look slightly contrived, but as long as you avoid stepping into the scoop you’re forced to climb slightly right of the bolts and it’s totally independent and really good climbing. FA: Alex Trnovsky & Kieran Loughran, 2013 | 22 | 5 | |||||
4 |
★★ O Glory of the Most Glorious
Straight from the hermits Baha’i Faith Prayer book. Up the middle orange streak past 4 FH to anchors. FA: Alex Trnovsky & Graeme Dick, 2014 | 21 | 4 | |||||
5 |
Repent Harlequin! Said The Ticktockman
Trad? WTF? Medium cams and wires and a couple of slings. Start below large flaky scoops. Up past 3 FH, trending left to stay on the good rock, then up black groove on trad to anchors. FA: Kieran Loughran & Alex Trnovsky, 2014 | 18 | 15m, 3 | |||||
6 |
★★ The devil on my shoulder
Start to the left of the black water streak and climb straight up past 4 FH to anchors. FA: Alex Trnovsky & Andrew Clements, 2015 | 20 | 4 | |||||
7 |
★★ The atheist who found god
Up deceptively overhung wall, starting just right of the black water streak. Easy but committing to the first bolt, so best to stick clip. FA: Alex Trnovsky & James Stephens, 2014 | 20 | 5 | |||||
8 |
★★ God hates us all
Start a few metres further right. Stick clip the first bolt. Climb from the left to giant dinner plate jug, then up wall above to ledge. After a breather, launch up the steep juggy headwall to anchors. FA: Alex Trnovsky & Andrew Clements, 2015 | 21 | 5 |
1.7.1. Ballbag Amphitheatre 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -37.228901, 142.269197
description
After the main cliff breaks down, it redeems itself further on, with four excellent routes on fantastic rock. The hermits cave is at it's far end.
approach
Scramble down and around for about 50m from the main cliff.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Window in the Sky
Start in the big cave below the window and climb the arete to the ledge. Step gently over the window then blast up the black groove to the anchors. Remarkably steep for the grade. FA: Bill Begg, Brett Dodemaide & Alex Trnovsky, Apr 2016 | 16 | 5 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★★ afflicted by the curse
Start underneath the right end of the ledge (to the right of the main sandy cave). Climb up past a bolt, potter carefully left along the ledge, and then blast straight up past 4 more bolts to the anchors, enjoying the jugs while they last… FA: Alex Trnovsky & Bill begg, 2015 | 21 | 5 | |||||
3 |
★★ The big honey hunt
Start in the same spot. Once on the ledge continue straight up the juggy groove before launching up the orange wall to shared anchors. FA: Alex Trnovsky & Bill Begg, 2015 | 23 | 5 | |||||
4 |
★★ Deer hunting for Jesus
Start up the same juggy groove, but after the second bolt bust out rightwards past a third to the anchors above the ledge. FA: Bill Begg & Alex Trnovsky, 2015 | 18 | 3 | |||||
5 |
★ Guys lesbo lickfest fantasy line
Tough start (especially for shorties) leads to sustained climbing past 3 bolts to ledge and shared anchors. FA: Guy Abell & Alex Trnovsky, 2015 | 20 | 3 |
1.8. Redneck Paradise 0 routes in Crag
summary
Sport climbing on great rock
description
A gently overhung 15m face of fantastic stone with majestic views. There are currently 3 sport routes on the west facing wall, which gets the sun around 1pm. Routes are described right to left, and all start at the same bolt.
access issues
In CV35 and RNA
approach
Clearly visible from the road, slightly uphill from Queensland Cliff. Easiest access is to approach as for Queensland cliff. Wander under the huge smooth overhangs (and two hard trad routes) and head up the gully for about 50 metres to approach Rednecks from its right hand end. 25 minutes. It’s possible to head straight up from pretty much any part of the Crag X track but be prepared for a spot of bush bashing, and you will also need to skirt around the large boulder field at its base to get to the existing sport routes.
1.9. Queensland Cliff 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.228628, 142.264135
access issues
In CV35 and RNA
approach
From the extreme south eastern corner of the grassy paddock (branch off from the crag x track at the X cairn) a path of cairns lead through the regrowth. Once above the worst of the regrowth it’s simply a matter of making your way up the hill aiming for the right hand end of the cliff which is easily visible. It’s easiest to keep to the right (west) of the gully for as long as possible. 20 minutes.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Gay Express To Queensland
FA: Louise Shepherd & Steve Monks (alt), 1989 | 25 | 40m, 2 | |||
2 |
Perestroika In Queensland
FA: Louise Shepherd & Steve Monks (alt), 1989 | 24 | 35m, 2 |
1.10. Eagle Rock 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.231646, 142.259141
description
Limited area with one excellent climb. Although appears to be outside all SPA's and NVA's
access issues
Outside of all SPA's and NVA's.
approach
The crag is on the south side of the hill immediately south of Red Rock Creek and overlooks the road. Take the first turn-off south of Red Rock Creek (0.9 km north of the junction with Billywing Rd) and park at a gravel quarry.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Daddy Cool
Start up a chimney-crack a few metres left of a large corner, passing on the outside of a big block. Exit right at the top of the chimney and veer up right on the surprising wall. FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1988 | 16 | 35m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★★★ The Day of the Fox
Striking Orange and Grey corner that can be seen from the road. Perfect rock and a short bush bash from the carpark. A 28m abseil off tat at the end of the 2nd pitch makes it all rather convenient.
FA: Chris Baxter, Geoff Gledhill & Ian Ravenscroft, 1988 | 21 | 30m, 2 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Hotel California
Left-leaning ramp 15 metres right of "Day Of The Fox". Above the bulge, finish just right of the arete. FA: Steve Hamilton & Tim Burke, 1989 | 17 | 20m |
1.11. Scoop Rocks 23 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: -37.237056, 142.266177
description
A complex area of caves and buttresses hidden from the road in behind 'Eagle Rock'. The best quality routes are the furthest away, up on the aptly named Prow. You can always find something shady and climbable in summer around here. In winter it can be a biting wind tunnel.
access issues
NV11 and RNA
approach
From the junction of 'Harrop Track' and Red Rock Rd, drive north along Red Rock Rd for 900m, and turn right (East) into a small track. After 100m, turn right at a fork in the track and drive to just before a creek crossing. Park as for The Tower.
Follow the track through the marshlands until you stumble up and over the first rocks, then turn left. The track ascends the left side of a gully, bringing you to the Poison Bait Cave.
To get up to the main Prow you will need to scramble/solo up the very juggy wall just right of 'Poison Bait' cave. Beginners might need a rope for this.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Ridgeline CragsThe first routes are located along the north facing rocky ridgeline you walk up when approaching The Prow. | ||||||||
2 |
★★ Stone Circus
A wee bit of jamming. A slabby start leads to the diagonal line. At the final overhangs, step R to the finishing crack. FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1988 | 18 | 40m | |||||
3 |
All Said And Done
A little bon-bon above 'Stone Circus'. Scramble 45m above 'Stone Circus' to a distinctive crack on the corner of the buttress above. A steep jam crack leads to pretty corner, which quickly eases. FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1988 | 17 | 12m | |||||
4 |
★★ Angry Arborist
Located on north facing wall about 100m west of 'Framed' (The Prow). Traverse up and left along easy wall (cam & RB) to below big heuco. Very reachy (impossible if short!) crux dyno to hecuo and into small cave. Out right and up steep wall to lower off. Six ringbolts. FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003 | 23 | 25m | |||||
5 |
Tree Hugger
Climb to second bolt of 'Angry Arborist'. Rather than dynoing upwards, traverse left delicately to exposed swing onto arete. Up jugs to top. FA: Neil Monteith & Rohan Archibald, 2003 | 16 | 20m | |||||
6 |
★ Tree Hugger Direct
Overhung corner 10m left of 'Angry Arborist'. Thin laybacking past BR to short wide juggy crack. As for original route. FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2003 | 21 | 16m, 1 | |||||
7 |
Event Horizon
10m left of 'Tree Hugger' is another steep orange wall. On the left edge is a steep seam crack with 2 x FH. Up. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2004 | 25 | 10m, 2 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Posion Bait CaveCompact and very steep cave with dark orange rock about 100m east of Angry Arborist, and right below the western end of The Prow. | ||||||||
9 |
★★ Random Forest
Starts left of Talon. Mini route on simply great stone. FA: toby pola & Kent Paterson | 25 | 8m, 4 | |||||
10 |
★★ Talon
The left line in the cave. Cruxy flake on the lower wall, then juggy roof to finish. 5 RBs. Grade is skeptical as Neil thought it was much harder than 'Poison Bait'. FA: HB | 25 | 13m | |||||
11 |
Poison Bait Talon Link-Up
Up to Poison Bait's third bolt, then traverse left on slopers to finish up 'Talon'. FA: Neil Monteith, 2003 | 26 | 12m | |||||
12 |
★★★ Poison Bait
Bouldery start with five metre cieling. A sport classic! FA: Neil Monteith, 2003 | 26 | 12m, 5 | |||||
13 |
★ Media Control
Starts a few meters right of Poison Bait. Great athletic roof climbing. | 27 | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
The ProwThis very windy and exposed crag is situated directly above the Poison Bait Cave and is accessed by a scramble up the right side juggy cliff just right of Poison Bait. Not really suitable for non-climbers/kids. | ||||||||
15 |
Notre Dame
The very L side of the wall has distinctly easier ground. This route takes the line of least resistance across L and above the void to a steep finish on good holds. FA: Glenn Tempest (solo), 1994 | 12 | 25m | |||||
16 |
Ringing in My Ears
Quite nice. As for 'Notre Dame' but straight up and through the steepness at the major break. FA: Glenn Tempest, 1994 | 10 | 20m | |||||
17 |
★ Hunchback
Very enjoyable. At the left side of the wall is a line of jugs. Steeply up these to a tiny stance in corner then keep going straight up the juggy rib to easier ground. FA: Glen Tempest, 1994 | 17 | 20m | |||||
18 |
★★ Quasimodo's Dream
Steep fun on big holds all the way. Start up 'Hunchback' to tiny stance. Traverse up right on good jugs, then, against your better judgement, straight up overhanging grey wall past FH to sling lower-off point. FA: Glen Tempest, 1994 | 23 | 20m | |||||
19 |
★★ Three Legged Dog
Steep pumpy gym style climbing. Adds a hard direct start to Quasimodo's Dream on the Prow. Starts 3m right of 'Hunchback' at protruding wide tufa fin. Up this with difficulty (FH) to large jug. A thin move leads to killer jugs up outstanding orange wall. All bolts and new lower off. FA: Neil Monteith Malcolm Matheson, 2005 | 23 | 20m | |||||
20 |
★★★ Rival Dealer
Direct finish to malcolms project. Look for the anchor! | 27 | ||||||
21 |
★★★ Convicts
Mega line right through the guts of the wall with a bold right leading finish. The reachy start still stumps Malcolm. He can do the rest at 26... | 27 | 17m | |||||
22 |
★★ The Honeymoon is Over
Splitter steep finger crack on the right side of 'The Prow'. FA: Malcolm Matheson | 27 | 17m | |||||
23 |
★ Framed
Start up 'The Honeymoon is Over' then clip a bolt way out R. Swing R to the nose and up the wall past a PR. FA: Dave Jones & Richard Heap | 27 | 17m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Northern Mega CaveHuge cave on the northern side and underneath The Prow. | ||||||||
25 |
★★★ Secrets of the Past
In cave underneath main prow. Walk 100m left from poison bait cave on scree. Outrageous line through guts of cave with a crazy crux. FA: Kent Paterson | 30 | 20m, 10 | |||||
Random Far South East RoutesScattered in the forest to the south and east of The Prow main block are a few pillars and smaller walls. | ||||||||
27 |
Double Short Black
Steep climbing on good holds. Twin ropes recommended. Start: Located on buttress (Latte Land) about 60m south of 'Chemical Addiction'. Located at west end of buttress and right of chasm. FA: Joe Goding & Amanda Cole, 2003 | 22 | 10m, 3 | |||||
28 |
Chemical Addiction
Located on southern side of small boulder [The 'Small' Block] which is at eastern end of 'The Prow'. Stickclip FH at 4m. Jump for good holds in middle of the small block (or delicately up just R). Up and R of FH, past R side of rooflet. Tending L past this with good wires to top. Natural belay. Walk off. | 19 | 8m, 1 |
1.12. Sherpa Rocks 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.237918, 142.264005
description
A pleasant Arapilsian gully spot for some shady cranking on a hot day. 'Sherpa Rocks' are found just to the south of the main 'Scoop Rocks' outcrops.
Descent
A bolted abseil point is located above 'Invalid Stout'. To get off routes E of 'Woodys' either downclimb juggy wall L of 'Woodys' or rap from suitable rock bollard.
access issues
NV11 and RNA.
approach
Where the vague track to 'Scoop Rocks' hits the first rock outcrops just over the creek go up the R (S) side of the 'Scoop' Rock ridgeline, passing the odd cairn, to the first major outcrop that stands apart from the ridgeline, about opposite the Crater. It has two narrow gullies (it may be easier to simply walk straight up the hill, from the clearing after crossing the creek).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
The Corner
Orange Arapilesian corner about 5m R of 'Invalid Stout'. Ledge at 8m then overhung jug hauling up small roof crack. Has not been led yet - needs bolt. FA: FTRA Neil Monteith, 2004 | 20 R | 12m | |||
2 |
Invalid Stout
Subtle arête on R side of entrance to first gully. Easy crack for 5m to high BR. Step R and layback tenuous crack to break (crux). Through difficult bulge and up. U bolt lower off. FA: Neil Monteith Kent Paterson, 2003 | 20 | 15m, 1 | |||
3 |
★★ Revenue Road
Some reachy moves on lovely compact rock. As for 'Invalid Stout' to first BR, then step L and up rounded slopers past another three BRs. There’s also medium to large cam placements. Belay from large rock bollards on summit. FA: Neil Monteith Kent Paterson, 2003 | 21 | 17m, 4 | |||
4 |
★ Heaven is a Truck
More reachy climbing on good rock in next small gully 10m E of 'Invalid Stout'. Climb steep fingery wall (3 RBs) to face and corner (small/med cams and wires). FA: Kent Paterson Neil Monteith, 2003 | 22 | 20m, 3 | |||
5 |
★ Woodys
Orange corner on opposite side of gully to 'Revenue Road'. | 17 | 13m | |||
6 |
★★ Best of Hillwood
Superb rock. Start 5m right of 'Woodys'. 'Flake' crack leads to horizontal break. Seemingly blank and baffling wall (BR) to rounded juggy finish (BR). | 23 | 13m, 2 |
1.13. Valley Crag 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
access issues
On the edge of CV35.
approach
GR 124796
Park at the bend in the road about 200 metres south of Red Rock Creek and walk east across the paddocks. Head up the north branch of the creek which is reached about a kilometre from the road. The cliff is due north of 'Canyon Crag'.
It may be quicker to walk over the saddle from Pellant Pinnacles and then up the creek.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Oxtail Soup
Up flake to corner, hand traverse left, then up prow. Start: About 100 metres from the right-hand end of the cliff is an attractive grey wall with a wide corner high above a flake. FA: James McIntosh & Tony Wilson, 1991 | 17 | 22m | |||
2 |
★ Tapestry
Up right side of blunt arete (not using flake crack) to ledge then straight up. Start: Start 2 metres right of "Oxtail Soup" FA: James McIntosh & Tony Wilson, 1991 | 16 | 18m | |||
3 |
Disgraceful Propensities
The orange line right of "Tapestry" FA: James McIntosh & Tony Wilson, 1991 | 14 | 15m |
1.14. Canyon Crag 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
A great little cliff for the grade 17 climber. A very compact orange and grey wall on the south bank of the north-east branch of Red Rock Creek.
access issues
On the edge of CV35.
approach
GR 127791
Park at the bend in the road about 200 metres south of Red Rock Creek and walk east across the paddocks. Head up the north-east branch of the creek which goes off just before the large orange cliff on the right is reached (Crag X).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ No Holds Barred
Lovely climbing. The left-hand line on the grey part of the cliff. FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Monks, 1989 | 17 | 20m | |||
2 |
Rolls Royce
The line between "No Holds Barred" and "Take Your Pick", traversing in from "Take Your Pick". FA: James & Melanie McIntosh, 1991 | 17 | 20m | |||
3 |
★ Take Your Pick
Take crack 2 metres right of "No Holds Barred". Where the crack fades, step right and up steeply. FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Monks, 1989 | 17 | 18m | |||
4 |
★ Sardine Seam
Squeezed in. FA: James & Melanie McIntosh, 1991 | 17 | 18m | |||
5 |
Into The Fire
The obvious crack-line at the left (east) end of the canyon. 'Steep' to finish. FA: Robert Marshall, Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 1989 | 17 | 15m | |||
6 |
Superdyke
Superb but tiring face climb. FA: Phillip McMillan & James McIntosh, 1997 | 20 | 25m | |||
7 |
I'd Rather Be Skiiing
Only a few good moves, but these are very good. Start: Start about 30 metres left of "No Holds Barred" FA: James & Melanie McIntosh, 1997 | 16 | 30m |
1.15. The Grandstand 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
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Trad climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: -37.224439, 142.273451
description
A yellow west-facing cliff at the head of Red Rock Creek with some impressive natural lines.
access issues
NV8 and RNA.
approach
GR 128793
Park at the bend in the road about 200 metres south of Red Rock Creek and walk east across the paddocks. [Walk up cairned track as for Crag X], then just before you reach the Crag X, cross the creek and continue up rock slabs to the crag. Treacherous in the wet and tedious at any time. About 1 hour.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★ Second Place
Variant start to the first pitch of FPTP. Starts up L arete, then R into thin crack. Where crack ends, balance R into FPTP and up. Great climbing. FA: Goshen Watts & Chris Leidy, 29 Nov 2015 | 19 | 40m | |||||
2 |
★ First Past The Post
The first main line on the left.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Monks, 1989 | 19 | 45m, 2 | |||||
3 |
★★ Sporting Chance
The best line on the cliff, starting just right of "First Past The Post"
FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1989 | 23 M1 | 45m, 2 | |||||
4 |
★★ Even Money
Up the slab, moving left into right-facing corner. Up corner, exiting left onto another slab which leads to a diagonal flake. Right along the flake to the base of two parallel cracks which are followed to a large ledge. Up the headwall, slightly rightwards, on pockets. Start: Start 10 metres right of "Sporting Chance" FA: Parrish Robbins & Mike Fox, 1990 | 24 | 40m |