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Access issues inherited from Red Rock Area

Do NOT approach any of the crags in this area across the paddocks from Red Rock Road. The land has recently changed hands and the farmer does not want people crossing the property. Follow the tracks just outside the southern or northern boundaries of the farmland until able to move around the farmland to the area you are going. Please adhere to this to keep open the possibility of negotiated access.

Approach

Walk uphill from the northern pinnacle following cliffline until a slot canyon feature emerges on the right wall. Scramble up easy cliff and into slot to find bolted orange wall.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

A tricky crux on sensational turtle shell rock. The route begins at the left hand end of the Trench. Follow three FH to a chain anchor. A #2 Rock will protect the start, or stick-clip the first bolt.

FA: Tim Marsh

Four FHs up thin orange face 3m right of 'Wave of Mutilation'. Finish is an awkward and tough mantle into the scoop with potential for hitting the back wall.

FA: Tim Marsh, 2004

Would be a three star megaclassic if it wasn't tucked away in this gully. 4m right of 'Wave of Mutilation'. Chimney up the start to the first FH. Flakes, pockets and heucos lead up steep orange wall past eight FHs. Watch the lurking block behind you between the fourth and sixth bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith

Steep pumpy jug hauling on orange rock. Located on upper wall deep inside chasm. Two RB's to start then medium gear to DRB lower off.

FA: Neil Monteith

Wide overhung trench 4m right of 'Used Platypus Condom'. No wide trad gear required. Surprisingly steep and interesting. Walk off descent.

FA: Neil Monteith Hannah Lockie, 2005

A pumpy rising traverse on gritty rock with a nails hard start. Starts 5m right of 'Over And Out' at right edge of undercut grey wall. Boulder past FH to gain horizontals. 'Monkey' leftwards across these (medium SLCD's) to a flake forming an arête. Up this arete (FH) to finish. Walk off descent.

FA: Hannah Lockie Neil Monteith, 2005

A thin direct finish to 'Raver Girl'. Climb past first FH to horizontals. Arrange pro (medium SLCD's) and head rightwards on thin crimpers past FH to good holds. Up juggy wall past 3rd FH to top. Walk off descent.

FA: Neil Monteith Hannah Lockie, 2005

The next few routes are on the wall to the left of the entrance of the Trench.

The shrubbery isn't as bad as it looks! On the left side of the entrance to the Marianas Trench there is a wide crack. From the ground, scramble up on jumbled blocks for 5 meters to gain the base of the crack. A couple of layback moves take you to a grassy ledge. Climb the slab on the left of the crack to avoid some vegetation before stepping back into the line and on to the top. A big cam (4 Camalot or similar) is useful.

FA: David Jupp & Tim Marsh, 2002

Good, delicate and well protected slab climbing. The slab and shallow cracks 5 meters left of Aelutian Crack. Climb short grassy crack onto the slab then follow the cracks to the base of the compact red/orange corner. Move left and finish up 'Cindy'.

FA: David Jupp, Tim Marsh & Michael Homfray, 2002

A direct finish up the compact red/orange corner and the arete above has been top roped in the low 20's (depending upon reach), however, both rock and protection are poor.

FA: Tim Marsh & Michael Homfray, 2002

Two meters left of 'Cindy' is a broken chimney which splits the slab in half. Start 1-2m left of this chimney (5m left of Cindy) and follow the cracks in the slab before weaving through the tufts of grass above. A tricky start with minimal gear quickly gives way to very easily protected if occasionally mossy climbing.

FA: David Jupp, Michael Homfray & Tim Marsh, 2002

Well protected moderate slab climbing with an entertaining finish. The short chimney crack to a dog leg crack three meters left of Pike. Take the ramp up right to the base of the shallow orange corner at the apex of the wall which is passed on the right.

FA: David Jupp & Tim Marsh, 2002

Activity

Check out what is happening in Marianas Trench.