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Description

Climbs taken from VCC Mt Difficult 2007 online update.

https://vicclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Mt-Difficult-Update_2007_08.pdf

Access issues inherited from Halls Gap Area

A low profile always helps to avoid too much attention from tourists and park rangers

Approach

From Delleys Bridge, drive 3 km north along the Halls gap – Mt Zero Road to the first of two vehicle tracks heading up left from a right hand curve in the road. Drive about 600m up this (passable by 2wd with care) to a 4wd track which heads of left. Walk south along this for 300m then head up the hill to the cliff. (About 5 min drive and 8 min walk from Halls Gap).

Ethic inherited from Halls Gap Area

Bolting, is considered illicit, along with the rest of the park and other National Parks within Victoria. Only alter routes after considerable consultation with first ascensionests and local climbers.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Climbs the tallest buttress of the cliff, which is at the left end of the main face.

  1. 45m Up bulging crack just right of the foot of the buttress, then easily up the major line until you can move left on to the front of the buttress. Climb middle of buttress to top of pinnacle.

  2. 20m Step right across top of chimney, right on ledge to easy line, up this then up left.

FA: Chris Baxter & Ian Forrest, 2001

Start in gully right of 'Don’t Wet The Car' [this gully is the lefthand of the big chimney lines on the main face].

  1. 30m [crux] rightward out of gully onto front of buttress. Up middle of buttress via seams, steep orange wall and short central groove to large ledge below overhangs.

  2. 25m Line through overhangs and up.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody (alt), 2006

Revolting first pitch leads to nice exposed chimney through big roof.

  1. 30m Major chimney line right of the Codds Flat buttress to ledge below overhangs.

  2. 20m Chimney through roof.

  3. 10m Easy buttress right of gully.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox (alt), 2006

Chimney line 10m right of 'Carry On Up The Chimney'.

  1. 40m Start in the back of the chimney and chimney up and out to front. Up line to big ledge below steep walls.

  2. 15m [crux] Steep wide crack in back corner of bay.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox (alt), 2006

  1. 20m Crack up buttress right of The Khasi Of Kalabar to ledge.

  2. 20m Up on jugs to big ledge. Scramble off down right [possibly roped].

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jerry Maddox & Christopher Armstrong, 2006

Crack 10m right of 'Barbara Windsor Mammorial Buttress'.

FA: Jerry Maddox, Philip Armstrong & Christopher Armstrong, 2006

Very enjoyable and varied outing. 15m right of Don’t Wet Yourself. Between the 2 major chimneys, on the shorter righthand section of the cliff, there is a buttress with an overhang across its width at 8m. Start at the short crack in the middle of this buttress.

  1. 20m [crux] Thin moves up and right past FH to overhang. Up steep crack around right end of overhang exiting left onto right arête of buttress. Up shallow groove to ledge below roof.

  2. 20m Up to crack through roof, exciting haul over roof and up.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody (alt), 2006

Near the right end of the cliff are two deep chimney-clefts. Scramble up L past large conifer to sloping grassy terrace just left of left cleft. Follow right leading crack up slabby left wall of cleft to ceiling. An exposed pull up right gains the chimney. Up.

FA: David Gairns & Chris Baxter, 2001

Activity

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