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The Hindu Kush

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 5

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 4 months ago

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Description

This is the extensive line of cliffs running along the southern rim of the 'Alex Creek' valley.

There is an excellent overhang/shelter about 100 metres left of where the main cliff-line is reached, with a spring that flows during wet times.

Climbs are described from right to left. Needs a field trip to get some photos to make sense of the place.

© (kieranl)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

"Please do not add any routes (old or new) to this database for the time being."

Eight areas in the Victoria Range have been closed to climbing by Parks Victoria (announced Feb 2019). It is not clear whether the closures take effect immediately or as of the beginning of March 2019.

Closed areas are: The Gallery, Gondwanaland, Millennium, Billywing Buttress, Billimina Area, Little Hands Cave, Cave of Man Hands and Manja Area.

Approach

Park as for 'Swamp Wall' and walk in to that crag. Walk left under 'Swamp Wall' past its left end until you can walk up the steep open gully which is the usual 'Swamp Wall' descent route. Turn left at the head of the gully and continue uphill between two outcrops to a saddle on the ridge (Snake-Bite Pass). From here a faint pad leads up the ridge through light scrub and past several rock steps to the right-hand end of the cliff-line.

GR 080595

© (kieranl)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

At the right-hand end of the main cliff-line there is a very steep wall, Little Tjuringa Wall. The shelter is 100 metres further left. At the right end of Little Tjuringa Wall is a short, black, seamy-looking corner. Start up the right crack, step left and up with difficulty to the horizontal. Up easy headwall to belay.

FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2001

Two compact grey buttresses can be seen at the top of the ridge while walking up. They are best seen from Snake-Bite Pass. Take the left buttress, starting on the left and finishing up the crack on the right of the top face.

FA: Andy Long, 1992

No description

FA: S Pateman & S Holloway, 2004

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