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Summary

One of the most popular easy sport crags in the Grampians.

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Description

UPDATE DECEMBER 2014 Ravine is now reopened after the Jan 2014 fires, according to the Parks Victoria map http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

Please note the area has been heavily burnt and the old track is now non existant. See approach for more details.

This area is as fragile as ever so tread lightly.

One of the most popular easy sport crags in the 'Grampians'. A secret lush valley hidden away behind the olive plantation and only discovered with the help of Google Earth! This place is made for summer. There are two sides to the crag, the south facing shady vertical face and the north facing steep cave. The vertical face is in shade until 4pm in summer, the sport cave gets a little morning sun but is steep enough not to greatly affect the climbing. This is not a great place in winter as it doesn't get any sun at all.

The North Vertical Wall looks and climbs like a mix of Kentucky's Red River Gorge and the Blue Mountains. Because of the shady aspect there is quite a bit of lichen and moss on this wall, but the good routes climb the clean lines between these curtains of vegetation. Hopefully with a few more repeats these routes will become totally clean. The routes on the left side climb very nicely on polished orange rock with remarkable jugs, the right side routes are gritty and a little crumbly underfoot.

If it all gets too hot, there are several waist deep swimming holes 200m further up the ravine and some more minor ones downstream about 200m. They tend to be a bit stagnant in late summer. DO NOT SHIT ANYWHERE NEAR THE CREEK! (yes, some idiot had already done this.)

There has been some recent complaints from local bush walkers about the Ravine climbing area. Try and keep to these self-imposed rules when climbing here.

  1. limit the numbers of climbers in your group (no more than 5?) No uni clubs, VCC trips etc.

  2. no new routes

  3. no toilet activities anywhere near the crag itself (and bury your paper!)

  4. leave your cars parked at Stapylton camp if you have more than 1

  5. be courteous to any non-climbers in the area

  6. take out any rubbish you find (even if it isn't yours)

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Access issues

Damage to the road has almost resulted in climbing at The Ravine being BANNED. Please do not drive past the gates, even if they are unlocked or open.

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Approach

From Stapylton Campground drive west along Olive Plantation Road towards 'Grampians' Road. Park at the first left turn after about a kilometre at a sandy hump with a gate. These locked gates were recently installed at either end of the sandy access track (February 2009) so now you have to walk (not drive) south for approx 2.5 kms down the sandy fireroad that runs on the east side of the olive plantation (parallel to Winfields road, but further east). At the 2nd distinct sharp 90 degree bend walk 50m further to a 15m high cliffline (Truckstop Wall) and large boulders on the left side of the road.

CHANGE OF APPROACH DEC 2014 From the last sharp bend there is a cairn on the left of the road marking the "track". Follow this for 50 or so metres to the small cliff line and head left along it's face. Cairns mark the direction of the gully to scramble up. Once at the top of the small cliff line head approximately due east (cairns should mark the way, as all tape markers have been incinerated). While direction is relatively well marked by cairns some of the previous heavily wooded areas are not marked as well. Just keep heading east (gently heading uphill) until you reach the flat rocky ridge line which has cairns marking the final direction. Once looking down into the valley the Ravine is the large canyon approximately due east. Follow cairns down and try to stay to rocky ground to avoid erosion.

All vegetation that was previously in the area has been burnt to a crisp and all that remains is thin charred tree trunks.

END OF CHANGE

Total walking time - 40 minutes including the easy road - a mountain bike would reduce the walk time in half. Mosquitoes lurk in the water holes - bring repellent if your girly scent attracts them!

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Ethic

This Ravine has been developed as a safe sport climbing venue. It has a plethora of bolts and rap anchors. All new routes should follow this example of nicely spaced and well installed equipment. Expect retro-bolts if your route is too runout! If you want to establish scary death routes please go elsewhere.

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History

View historical timeline

Discovered by Neil Monteith with the help of Google Earth and a machete. All routes were bolted and climbed shortly after.

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Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

The overhung bolted arete just right of a deep chimney where the track first meets the cliff. UPDATE: Second last bolt is loose.

FA: Muki Woods, 8 Aug 2008

Starts just left of Glue Mountains. Up easily to first bolt, over steepening and then follow left orange streak

FFA: adam demmert & Neil Monteith, 15 Dec 2015

Blue mountains like climbing on small edges. Lone route on clean wall between 'Violent Crumble' and Brush with Authority. Starts in the trees up on to ledge to face which gets steeper near the top.

FFA: adam demmert & cathdv, 11 Oct 2008

FA: Adam Demmert & Catherine de Vaus, 11 Oct 2008

Start up Glue Mountains till you reach the major overlap, then follow bolts right trying to manage the pump, up to and over hanging prow, with a bit of a sting in the tail

Set by adam demmert, 12 Mar 2015

FFA: adam demmert, Ben Wiessner & Douglas Hockly, 12 Mar 2015

The far left route on the grid bolted section of cliff, and just right of the roof section. Boulder up just right of short arete on pockets to horizontal. Head up and left onto brushed streak. Weave your way up this crimpy face to top past a few bulges. Finish is a tad runout. 6 FHs and clip-and-go lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2008

2nd route from the left with FHs and about 3m left of 'Try Land'. Thin moves to a rest in the scoop then battle the bulge and continue up the headwall. Awesome rock quality! Traverse right to anchors on 'Try Land'.

FA: Steve Chapman, Will Monks & Ross Timms, 2008

The left most route with ringbolts. Great polished jugs with a tricky opener. Slight left trend to start then up juggy face to small ledge. Out and right to finish. Seeps after heavy rain.

FA: Neil Monteith, Cath De Vaus & Adam Demmert, 2008

The first and best route at the crag, borderline 3 stars? Unique for the 'Grampians' - climbs and looks more like limestone. Great sustained climbing on water polished jugs. Surprisingly overhung. Located in the middle of the south face, directly in front of small pine tree. When it gets tough around the 5th bolt dog-leg left to find the better holds. Seeps for several days after heavy rain.

FA: Neil Monteith & Will Monks, 2008

Makes Portland Criminal doable for the average man - and gives good sustained climbing. Up 'Pains Ford' to third ring bolt, then traverse right (FH) across horizontal break and large pocket into Portland Criminal and up this to top.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 3 Aug 2008

Line of most resistance which involves some tiny crimpers. Starts 1m right of 'Pains Ford' at right leading shelf. Very bouldery start past two RBs to break. Easier but still tricky climbing through the bulge then up the face above.

FFA: adam demmert & Neil Monteith

FA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 3 Aug 2008

Warm up your fingers before tackling this feisty route. A soft tick if you can crimp. Begin at slab below very shallow left leaning corner about 4m right of 'Pains Ford'. Crimpy past three ring bolts to juggy shelf. Easier wall above past another four rings to lower-off. On the second ascent Rich managed to snap off three key crux holds, upping the route from 23 to 24.

FA: Neil Monteith & Rich Ham, 2008

Mantle up to small pocket then crux crimps. Finish up juggy face to anchor. Ringbolts.

FA: Portland Lads, 26 Oct 2008

Long wall with a delightful flake start. 6 unbolts and one FH to chain lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 3 Aug 2008

Sustained wall climbing on gritty crimpers and sloping horizontals. Feels almost Blue Mtns like. 7 bolts - 5 U bolts & 2 FHs and a double ring lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2008

Far right bolted route. Gray slab then orange wall with pockets and finish left up flake crack.

FA: Neil Monteith, 10 Dec 2015

A trad route! Left facing corner about 50m right of the bolted routes on the main face. Will be retro bolted soon!

FA: Sean & ?, 3 Aug 2008

Another mossy trad route. Start approx 4m R of 'Maximum Impact' on top of boulder. The direct start would be on the other side of boulder at the base of the tree but it is very mossy and was not climbed. Move up 3m, traverse right approx 2m then continue straight up to top out. Trad anchors behind block.

FA: James Orlebar & Damien Callahan, 5 Oct 2008

Short, powerful and pumpy! Start at a series of pockets towards the left side of the cave. Head up and out on gritty slopers and funky footwork. Use long draws to stop bad rope drag.

23/3/18 The left hand fixed hanger on the anchor can be tightened by hand

FA: Ingvar Lidman, May 2008

Climb the devious arching line 8m right of 'Ravinous'. 5 FH's to rings. A green, red & yellow Camalot are very helpful to supplement the bolts.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, May 2008

Starts off block next to 'Dark and Stormy'. Stick clip 1st bolt. Crimpy start to pocket and jug. Up to undercling then bouldery crimpy crux to great position on arete. Pull onto juggy face and join 'Dark and Stormy' at last bolt.

(02/05/15) Nice sidepull broke off at the crux move. Crux is now slightly harder!

FA: Portland Lads, 28 Oct 2008

First ascent at night in the pouring rain. May need a little brushing on the upper holds. Climbs the right edge of the Ravine Cave, with a slight left trend across an exposed face. Hard start then difficulty eases considerably once the left facing flake is reached at the half way point.

FA: Neil Monteith, 9 Aug 2008

Activity

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