The Ravine Mostly Sport climbing21 routes in crag
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UPDATE DECEMBER 2014 Ravine is now reopened after the Jan 2014 fires, according to the Parks Victoria map http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf
Please note the area has been heavily burnt and the old track is now non existant. See approach for more details.
This area is as fragile as ever so tread lightly.
One of the most popular easy sport crags in the 'Grampians'. A secret lush valley hidden away behind the olive plantation and only discovered with the help of Google Earth! This place is made for summer. There are two sides to the crag, the south facing shady vertical face and the north facing steep cave. The vertical face is in shade until 4pm in summer, the sport cave gets a little morning sun but is steep enough not to greatly affect the climbing. This is not a great place in winter as it doesn't get any sun at all.
The North Vertical Wall looks and climbs like a mix of Kentucky's Red River Gorge and the Blue Mountains. Because of the shady aspect there is quite a bit of lichen and moss on this wall, but the good routes climb the clean lines between these curtains of vegetation. Hopefully with a few more repeats these routes will become totally clean. The routes on the left side climb very nicely on polished orange rock with remarkable jugs, the right side routes are gritty and a little crumbly underfoot.
If it all gets too hot, there are several waist deep swimming holes 200m further up the ravine and some more minor ones downstream about 200m. They tend to be a bit stagnant in late summer. DO NOT SHIT ANYWHERE NEAR THE CREEK! (yes, some idiot had already done this.)
There has been some recent complaints from local bush walkers about the Ravine climbing area. Try and keep to these self-imposed rules when climbing here.
limit the numbers of climbers in your group (no more than 5?) No uni clubs, VCC trips etc.
no new routes
no toilet activities anywhere near the crag itself (and bury your paper!)
leave your cars parked at Stapylton camp if you have more than 1
be courteous to any non-climbers in the area
take out any rubbish you find (even if it isn't yours)
From Stapylton Campground drive west along Olive Plantation Road towards 'Grampians' Road. Park at the first left turn after about a kilometre at a sandy hump with a gate. These locked gates were recently installed at either end of the sandy access track (February 2009) so now you have to walk (not drive) south for approx 2.5 kms down the sandy fireroad that runs on the east side of the olive plantation (parallel to Winfields road, but further east). At the 2nd distinct sharp 90 degree bend walk 50m further to a 15m high cliffline (Truckstop Wall) and large boulders on the left side of the road.
CHANGE OF APPROACH DEC 2014 From the last sharp bend there is a cairn on the left of the road marking the "track". Follow this for 50 or so metres to the small cliff line and head left along it's face. Cairns mark the direction of the gully to scramble up. Once at the top of the small cliff line head approximately due east (cairns should mark the way, as all tape markers have been incinerated). While direction is relatively well marked by cairns some of the previous heavily wooded areas are not marked as well. Just keep heading east (gently heading uphill) until you reach the flat rocky ridge line which has cairns marking the final direction. Once looking down into the valley the Ravine is the large canyon approximately due east. Follow cairns down and try to stay to rocky ground to avoid erosion.
All vegetation that was previously in the area has been burnt to a crisp and all that remains is thin charred tree trunks.
END OF CHANGE
Total walking time - 40 minutes including the easy road - a mountain bike would reduce the walk time in half. Mosquitoes lurk in the water holes - bring repellent if your girly scent attracts them!© (aca_admin)
This Ravine has been developed as a safe sport climbing venue. It has a plethora of bolts and rap anchors. All new routes should follow this example of nicely spaced and well installed equipment. Expect retro-bolts if your route is too runout! If you want to establish scary death routes please go elsewhere.© (aca_admin)
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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