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The Unnamed Cliff

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created 9 months ago - Edited 9 weeks ago

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Description

This cliff has a number of worthwhile climbs and isn't quite as remote as its neighbours. It is a fairly long crag and as access is at the left-hand end and the descent is at the right-hand end it can seem a long walk in climbing booties. Take Tevas!

There has been some recent development of a small face at the left end, including abseil stations, and some routes in the 22 department. Rock quality of this wall (Energise your soul wall) is generally excellent orange/grey sandstone. The rest of the cliff varies greatly, with large sections of choss, some very appealing lines. The descent off some routes looks epic, beware. Route finding to date has been hard due to lack of any decent topo maps. Please treat this upate with caution as many of the existing routes have not been added to the topos as the editor was not sure where they went. I hope the routes that I have indicated (which I am sure of) are useful to find your way around this crag. Possibility for new routes is great.

Original text by Bill Andrews. Edited by Joe Goding 12th July 2004.

Map Details

See Northern 'Grampians' (VICMAP). 1:50,000. The new track (as described in text) hits the cliff at approx 075 230

Also see "Mount Stapylton" 1:25,000 (VICMAP)

Suggested Campsites

1)Troopers Creek (Further) or

2)Mt Stapylton (Easier & closer).

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Grampians

"Please do not add any routes (old or new) to this database for the time being."

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks. See http://m.parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/safety-and-regulations#overview

Approach

This crag is basically found near the south-east corner of the Toscana olives fenceline (there is a reasonable road on the south end of this. The road on the east boundary should only be undertaken by large (i.e. Hi-Lux or Land Cruiser) 4WD with decent clearance.

  1. From the Troopers Creek campsite, head along Rose's Gap Road (towards Wartook) for 5km to Smith Road, (at 009 241) turn right onto this and follow it until it heads west (at GR 063 028) turn north onto Winfield Road. One kilometre along Winfield Road there is a vehicle track on the right(Cameron's Road), follow this (along the south, fenced border of Toscana Olives) for about 1½km until it peters out and turns north. Park here and head off roughly following an old vehicle track (that has had lots of trees felled across it). The start of the track can be a bit hard to find. You will hopefully find the trail which is just slightly higher than the old vehicle track most of the way, and joins it from time to time. You might catch the odd bit of yellow tape on a branch. After about 500m you come to a more open area, sloping down into the creek. Head left just before the creek, cross it after around 80m and follow it up and left (Cairned) until it heads steeply uphill to the base of 'Energise your soul' route. *The old track took another route slightly to the south but the track was re-made in order to reduce erosion as the old track was not well cairned and went mainly over loose ground. Routes described from left to right across the cliff.

  2. From the new Mt Stapylton campsite, head west on Plantation Road, turn south onto Windfield Road. Follow this until you reach the south end of Toscana Olives. As for 'Access' description 1).

Cliff Faces

North west. A good winter cliff. Be a little careful of wind on the left end of the cliff as it can get pretty full on and tie up your ropes amongst the chicken heads!

Time from Car: 20 25 minutes.

Add access from Mt Stapleton. Update access. Refer to map. (Scan map).

Descent

The top of this cliff has a number of mini canyons running back from the cliff edge, especially at the left hand end, because of this, descent is definitely easier via the gully towards the right-hand end of the cliff. This gully is readily located by a couple of large cairns, the highest of which indicates the start of the gully. Down in the gully there is an option, either an "Organ Pipes (at Arapiles) descent gully" type hole, or the buttress on its left (facing out). Of the two options the buttress is slightly easier. If going down the hole, move out right (facing the cliff) at the bottom; if taking the buttress option, move left (facing the cliff) towards the bottom of the "hole" option and down climb the bottom part of the buttress to a good ledge. Traverse this to the right and drop down to ground level and walk out through the scrub for 10 15 metres to where it thins out and back to the base of the climbs. All of the above sounds complex but it should gel when you are actually there.

It is also possible to get down the left hand end of the cliff but it would probably require a few trips to become familiar with all the ins and outs of the maze.

At the left-hand end of the cliff is a descent gully; at the bottom of this gully is a small face. Non Event starts at the overlap in the centre of this face.

© (jgoding)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

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Routes

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Grade Route

Start: Start as for 'The Phantom Cocky Killer of Troopers Creek Arms' ledge to continue up past FH and steep moves to high ledge. DBB Rap 15m to ground

FA: Mark Rewi & Joe Goding

Direct, sustained and well protected.

Start: Start 5m L of arete

FA: Will Monks, Joe Goding & James Pfrunder, 2004

1 14
2

An impressive line, even more so now that is free.

Start: It\\\\'s the huge orange corner 18m right of 'Harbinger'.

  1. 18m (18) Follow the weakness to the foot of a small overhang.

  2. 27m (24) Climb the crack (originally aid) until to the roof and traverse left to a ledge.

  3. 20m (-) Climb the short crack, move left into the major line, up to belay below a steep orange corner

  4. 14m (-) Traverse left, then up to finish left of the overhangs.

FA: Barrie Noye & Roland Pauligk. (var), 1969

FFA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson, 1991

Starts left of Piss n' Wind. Up easy ground to steepening orange face, following discontinuous cracks and breaks to small V-corner. Up grey rock above, trending right at 35m to finish as for Piss n' Wind.

FA: Simon Madden & Ross Taylor, Sep 2013

Starts around 50m right of Dead or Olive, at the buttress of good rock topped by a roof on its left-hand edge. Climb easy ground to orange at 15m, climbing it at left end. Head up orange streak, then onto grey slab above, exiting grey roof at top at right-hand end.

FA: Ross Taylor & Simon Madden, Sep 2013

Up and right to ledge, tending left slightly into upper face to join left leaning crack at end. Loose finish when pulling onto top. Beware. Scoot off left at large ledge. Search for DBB (2 recessed rings) in gully below dark grey/black wall. Rap 10m to ground/lower gully.

Start: start in middle of slab up and left of 'Energise your soul' wall.

FA: Mark Rewi & Joe Goding?

FA: Mark Rewi & Joe Goding, 2004

Up right leading ramp then up face to steep crack at top. Leader avoided first crux at top of ramp by stepping into easy ground on right.

Start: Start 7m right of Alias.

FA: Graeme Smith & Glen Donohue, 2000

Step right onto the undercut face and diagonally right to a bushy ledge. Up slightly left to an enormous ledge. Continue left to corner and steep brittle crack above.

Start: Start on the buttress on the other side of the gully opposite and 25m left of Alias at a small cave.

FA: Graeme Smith & Glen Donohue, 2008

Good climbing but serious.

Start: Start on dark left arête of grey/black wall in decent gully. Up

FA: David Cyber (onsite ground up ascent), Joe Goding & Jacqui Middleton., 2002

Looks a lot better than it climbs. If only this site had negative stars this would be a candidate!!! Forget it!

Start: Struggle up the corner into wide bridging moves. Little pro. Poor moves. Unmemorable. Would not recommend repeat. left into middle of face and up to top. Move left (west) to find DBB/Rap. approx 25m to ledge, maybe 40m to lower gully.

FA: David Cyber & Joe Goding, 2002

Up corner to ledge. Past a gooseneck and into the next corner and up.

Start: Start 5m left of Why.Com at the right facing corner (the left of facing corners) with a block at 8m.

FA: Glen Donohue & Graeme Smith., 2000

Central line on overhanging 'Arapilesian' looking wall. Can be done as one pitch. If you break in into 2 take care the falling leader does not hit the belayer!

  1. 20m (19) Start up below black groove/crack. Up and into crack (crux) for a few metres to first horizontal break. Traverse left to juggy corner, take care with rock, up and onto good ledge below obvious closed corner to belay to reduce rope drag

  2. 15m (22) Up closed (Grey) right facing corner above, past FH (crux), exciting moves up and left to belay ledge and rap chain.

FA: Steve Holloway & others?

FA: Stephen Holloway & Amanda Cole, 2004

Start: Start at TPCK of TCA. Up 2m then up and Right on good pockets, to horizontal break (FH). Right to join "Energise your soul"

FA: Mark Rewi & others

FA: Mark Rewi, Josef Goding & Damien Heath, 2004

Up breaks to move left on to ledge at 5m. Left to crack and up to ledge. Rap from DRB

Start: At far left end of main cliff on arête left of steep, orange wall(Energise your soul wall).

FA: Josef Goding & Shane Hurt, 2002

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