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Description

NOTE: Detail taken from VCC online update 2001.

Access issues inherited from Halls Gap Area

A low profile always helps to avoid too much attention from tourists and park rangers

Descent notes

Musbury Crags consists of two main buttresses. To descend from the right hand buttress, scramble to the top and either climb into the gully that splits the two buttresses or walk down behind the left one. Descent from the left buttress is via the central gully which is reached by scrambling down to the top of Cosy Corner.

Ethic inherited from Halls Gap Area

Bolting, is considered illicit, along with the rest of the park and other National Parks within Victoria. Only alter routes after considerable consultation with first ascensionests and local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

owards the top of the descent gully at the left end of the cliff is an easy corner. A tricky layback with just sufficient protection. Climb the slabby wall then the seam just left of this. (Take a 5RP for use at half height).

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 1991

About 20m left of Face Dancers, half way up the descent track is a rib sticking out from the crag. It forms a corner with an orange wall, with an oval boulder on top. Up face 2m left of corner, past a small flake and onto the “Breadknife”. Up until it joins the corner, step onto the right face, and bridge up.

FA: David Witham & Lachlan Witham, 1987

Something for everyone. Climb the major yellow corner 8m down right of Space Cadets. Finish up the left arête then the groove. Pass three bolts en route.

FA: Tim Burke & Chris Baxter, 1991

The corner about 10-15m left of Face Dancers.

FA: David Witham & Lachlan Witham, 1987

Starts on the left side of the left but- tress at a large tree. Up the wall to a ledge and over an “overlap” to some flakes which lead diagonally up left. Up the wall just right of the arête.

FA: David Witham (solo), 1981

FFA: Bill Andrews & Heather Phillips, 1983

Starts about 12m right of Face Danc- ers just left of Cosy Corner. Gain the flake just left of the corner and follow it for 5m, move right and up the wall to the arête which is followed to the top.

FA: Allan Hope, Bill Andrews, Ceri Law & Heather Phillips, 1984

The prominent corner between Sliding Dog Sandwich and the descent gully.

FA: Bill Andrews & Heather Phillips, 1983

Climb the last crack (going right at 7m) before the boulder on the north side of the descent gully.

FA: Julian Oldmeadow & John Murphy, 1992

This climb follows the obvious stepped corner that starts 5m right of the de- scent gully. At the arête easy climbing leads to a small tree.

FA: Bill Andrews, Heather Phillips, Allan Hope & Ceri Law, 1984

This must be some new meaning of the phrase “superdirect” that I am not familiar with. The shallow groove above the mid-point of the diagonal traverse. A direct start would make for an independent climb.

FA: David Schirra & Chris Baxter, 1990

We all make mistakes. The arête and crack just right of White Crow. Finish on the first ledge and wonder why you bothered.

FA: Bill Andrews & Allan Hope, 1984

Starts about the middle of the right hand buttress at a widish crack. This is followed to a good ledge. Move left and up the arête (as led) or just right of it (as seconded, grade 16).

FA: Bill Andrews & Heather Phillips, 1983

Short but committing layback. Scram- ble up to ledge with tree on the right side of the right hand buttress. Climb the distinctive thin right leaning flake above.

FA: Chris Baxter & David Schirra

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