Site navigation

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Description

A small cliff in a good position with a few nice lines.

Access issues inherited from Halls Gap Area

A low profile always helps to avoid too much attention from tourists and park rangers

Approach

From the end of Tandarra Rd cross Fyans Creek and follow signposts towards Delley's Bridge. Pass the Boronia Peak junction and continue on towards Delley's. The track drops down into a valley where there is a board walked creek crossing. From here follow the 4wd track North uphill to a gate. The cliff is about 100m uphill on the right from this gate. The LH buttress has Altitude Sickness on it and the other routes are on the RH block.

Descent notes

Descend down the gully between the two main buttresses.

Ethic inherited from Halls Gap Area

Bolting, is considered illicit, along with the rest of the park and other National Parks within Victoria. Only alter routes after considerable consultation with first ascensionests and local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

An attractive line with a dramatic finish which looks much harder than it is. The original write up gave the route as being 15m and only covered the top half of the climb. As there is no easy way of accessing the top half I have added a start. The route takes the right-facing, right-leaning corner in the upper half of the LH buttress. There is a gully in the middle of the LH cliff which leads up to this line. Scramble 6m up this to belay below the first steep rock. Climb cracks towards the LH side of the gully with an awkward exit to the foot of a R leading ramp. Up the ramp to the headwall. L and up to gain the corner then up this.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter & Tony Maasakkers, 1993

The RH cliff is about 60m R of Altitude Sickness. It has a steep compact central buttress bounded on the L by a corner. Start 3m L of this corner. Up loose slabby face following dirty cracks to deep crack/groove in steep headwall. Up this on suspect rock to finish up easier groove above. An unpleasant experience all round.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 30 Jan 2016

The corner R of THofS. Start down R and finish up a narrow chimney.

FA: Jerry Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 30 Jan 2016

R of Camp 4 is a steep clean buttress with 2 good deep crack lines. Left crack. Above the difficulties step out L and up the short steep face. A couple of large cams around BD#4 size are useful.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter & Tony Massakkers, 1993

The RH crack.

FA: Chris Baxter, Stephen Hamilton & Tony Massakkers, 1993

Activity

Check out what is happening in Base Camp Buttress.