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Mt Ida

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Description

A small easily accessible cliff with a lot of easier routes. Not great but OK if you want some easier routes only a few minutes from Halls Gap. Some of them are easily accessible for toproping. The rock is generally sound but there are some unstable blocks below the Northern Cliff. Clearly visible low down above Fyans Creek from the back deck of the Spirit of Punjab restaurant!

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Approach

From the end of Tandarra Rd in Halls Gap cross the bridge and follow the track L towards Boronia Peak. This track joins a 4wd track continue L along this. At the Boronia Peak intersection go L towards Delley’s Bridge. You will reach a gate on a management track on the R after 150m. Contour L through light bush for 100m to the LH [Northern] end of the cliff. Walk down R around the LH end of the cliff to access the Northern Cliff. You will see an obvious rock "window" before descending. The Southern Cliff can be accessed by a gully [cairned] at its LH end or from the RH end through a tunnel between the cliff and a large block. 10 minutes from car.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

This is the end of the cliff closest to Halls Gap township. As you descend down to it around the end of the hill you will see an obvious rock "window". There are double belay bolts on top of the cliff above Onion Bahji. These are also suitable for setting up top ropes in the area. The cliff left of the deep chimney line is a bit unstable and the two routes in that area should be approached with caution.

At the LH end of the Northern Cliff, 2.5m R of a blocky arête. Follow short corners and cracks up and R to a final steep crack/flake. Up this to top.

FA: Philip Armstrong & David Lia 8/03/2015

5m R of Samosa, a short L facing corner crack starting above a bulge. Up to and up the corner. The bulge below the corner has seen some rockfall recently making the route unstable and best avoided.

FA: Philip Armstrong & David Lia, 17 Jan 2015

4m R of NWF. Up the RH of the twin chimneys. Be careful of loose blocks.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 15 Mar 2015

Just R of Papadum. Up shallow corner on the R wall of the RH chimney exiting R into steep seam at the top.

FA: Peter Cody & Jerry Maddox, 17 Jan 2015

3m R of Papadum chimney is a shallow L facing groove. Up to and up groove. Finish up wall past FH.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 4 Apr 2015

1m R of Onion Bahji a narrow buttress protrudes from the cliff. Up the L side of the buttress, finishing with nice climbing up the thin cracks in the headwall directly above.

FA: Peter Cody, David Lia & Philip Armstrong, 15 Mar 2015

A good introductory jam crack. Down and R 6m from Emu Kebab. A clean deep hand crack up a block.

FA: Philip Armstrong, David Lia & Peter Cody, 15 Mar 2015

Directly behind RP or uphill 6m from Emu Kebab. Up and L to short wide crack. Up [BD#4 useful]

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 4 Apr 2015

Start as for Kukri. A line leading to a deep hand jam crack in a shallow R facing groove. Approach upper crack from the L to avoid large possibly detached blocks. Awkward move to get into jam crack.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 15 Mar 2015

The easy option. Along the top of the cliff between the Northern Cliff and the descent gully to the Main Cliff is an isolated block. Up to and up the easy chimney on the Northern face.

FA: Philip Armstrong & David Lia, 3 Apr 2015

3m R of Set Menu. Up the bulging crack on the front [West face] of this block

FA: Philip Armstrong & David Lia, 11 Jan 2015

The next 7 climbs through to Saffron Rice are on a small separate wall at the top of the descent gully to the Southern Cliff. There is a saddle with a large cairn from where you start the descent down R to the Southern Cliff. Behind [to the South of] the cairn is the start of a small cliff line. At its North end it has a narrow easy angled buttress leading to a steeper headwall with 2 cracks in it.

This is the LH line on the narrow easy angled buttress leading to a steeper headwall. Up the L side of the buttress and finish up the LH crack.

FA: Peter Cody Philip Armstrong, 25 Mar 2015

Up 1m R of Lassi to finish up the RH crack.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 25 Mar 2015

Around R of MC. 1m R of the arête are some protruding holds. Up holds and slightly R to finish up middle of headwall. Quite good short route.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 25 Mar 2015

5m R of Naga Hills. A flake crack leading to an obvious deep jam crack in the upper half.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 15 Mar 2015

The line 3m R of Mysore

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 15 Mar 2015

3m R of Lahore. Up to and up short L leading groove

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 25 Mar 2015

Start as for SR then head up and R into next groove and up this.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 25 Mar 2015

From the saddle where the cairn is head around the L end of the gully cliffs and follow the cliff line L about 15m to a short orange corner with a striking arête to its L. Up the corner to a large ledge. Finish up short steep crack.

FA: Philip Armstrong & David Lia, 3 Apr 2015

From below Mysore on the Gully Cliff a short descent down and L [looking out - some cairns] leads to the Southern Cliff. The first buttress to the R [facing cliff] after descending is the Bellview Heights buttress.

There are double belay rings above Bellview Heights and Smokestack Lighnin'. These are also accessible and suitable for setting up topropes.

From 3m L of Bellview Heights and on the same face head up to and up a series of cracks and flakes. Varied and fun.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 15 Mar 2015

From the bottom of the descent walk R 10m to below the first major buttress. A steep left-facing groove left of orange overhangs. Some suspect holds above crux bulge. Finish up wall.

FA: David Karia & Stephen Hamilton, 1993

5m R of BH. Easily up onto detached flakes. Clip FH and step R. Up and L to groove and up this past FH. Finish up wall to R of flake [wires and small cams].

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 4 Apr 2015

R of the Bellview Heights buttress is a bay with a corner crack on each side. The LH corner crack is wide and strenuous.

FA: Jerry Maddox, Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 17 Jan 2015

The RH corner crack is surprisingly pleasant.

FA: Jen Stone & Chris Baxter, 2003

Undercut crack on front of buttress 5m R of CofT. Desperate start leads to good upper wall. A good grade 17 variant is to start around the R arête and climb out L easily onto ledge then finish up top wall.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & David Karla, 1993

Up to and up the steep crack around the R arête from Northern Exposure. Finish up L arête at top.

FA: Chris Baxter & Jen Stone, 2003

The dirty corner just R of GS

FA: Peter Cody, Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 17 Jan 2015

2m L of the nice crack of Mughlay is a deep chimney. Up this.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 11 Apr 2016

8m R of Palak Paneer and 2m R of the chimney crack of Delhi Belly is a lovely clean crack. Up this and short wall above.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody & Jerry Maddox, 17 Jan 2015

2m R of Mughlay, a couple of nice face moves past 2FH. 18/5/2015

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 18 May 2015

Line 1m R of Coat of Arms. Small cams protect the start.

FA: Philip Armstrong, 24 May 2015

11m R of Mughlay a short steep crack with a block 1m to its R. Crack [use block] to a tricky exit. BD#4 useful.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 4 Apr 2015

Start as for JLW but head R up blocks to short crack. Up this.

FA: Philip Armstrong & David Lia, 3 Apr 2015

Right of Lentils and Rice is a block with a passage behind it. The front face of this block has an obvious crack/seam up it. 1 FH near top. Packs a lot of fun into a small package.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 5 Jul 2015

Behind the top of the Southern Cliff, facing the walking track, is a short East facing cliff line. It is divided into 2 by a deep chimney gully. The LH cliff has a chimney crack at its LH end. Shady in the afternoon.

The LH cliff has a chimney crack at its LH end. Up to an up chimney. Suspect block on L edge near top.

FA: Philip Armstrong, 3 Apr 2015

8m R of the Kofta chimney an easy angled crack leads to an interesting finish. A well protected easy route, good for leading practice. Descend to the L along the summit and down a gully behind Kofta.

FA: Peter Cody, Philip Armstrong & David Lia, 15 Mar 2015

2m R of, Cybele an awkward lower section leads to easy ground.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 15 Mar 2015

5m R of Rhea and just R of the chimney/gully separating the LH and RH faces. From the R foot of the gully, chimney up between a block and the cliff. Climb the seam near the L arête of the block [small wires]

FA: Philip Armstrong, 8 Mar 2015

2.5m R of Naan is a short L facing corner system leading up to short smooth orange face with 2 thin seams in it. Up corners to ledge. Step out L and up RH seam. RPs useful.

FA: Peter Cody, Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 17 Jan 2015

Short steep R facing corner 6m R of TM. Up corner and steep arête above avoiding large questionable blocks to left. Not recommended.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 25 Mar 2015

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2009

ISBN: 958733147

With North Gramps, The Black Range, Central Gramps, Halls Gap, Sth East Gramps and the Victoria Range areas covered, you'll have no shortage of inspiration at your disposal. With 800 routes, full colour maps and topos as well as heaps of additional info, this guide will have you sorted.

Author(s): Neil Monteith and Simon Carter

Date: 2015

ISBN: 9780994278401

Neil Monteith and Simon Carter took no time to rest after the release of their 2013 Sport Crags edition and have now release a more comprehensive guide also covering several popular trad and multipitch areas. The guide contains 61 crags and 1200 routes and also includes the likes of Grey Green Walls, Central Buttress, Asses Ears and the popular beginners trad area of Summerday Valley which weren't covered in the Sport only edition. With all the motivating and awe-inspiring photos we've come to expect from Australia's premier climbing photographer Simon Carter, and easy to use layout including access maps and detailed topo's, you won't be left hanging.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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