Site navigation

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Description

Easy access with clean orange rock on it's Western side, 3 routes on dirty rock on it's Southern face.

Access issues inherited from Halls Gap Area

A low profile always helps to avoid too much attention from tourists and park rangers

Approach

From the end of Tanderra Road follow the tourist track as for Boronia Peak. After crossing Fyans Creek take the left branch for about 50mts. After a few steps and a cut up tree stump, head up hill, aross a management vehicle track after which cairns continue uphill until you skirt right around a grotty micro cliff to the main cliff. 10 minutes from the car park.

Descent notes

Rap anchor on boulder left of tree above Dirty Work

Ethic inherited from Halls Gap Area

Bolting, is considered illicit, along with the rest of the park and other National Parks within Victoria. Only alter routes after considerable consultation with first ascensionests and local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

40mts up from south west arete. Crack to tree at 10mts, above the tree pass a prow on it's right side and finish up thin cracks.

FA: Nicola Woolford, Chris Baxter & Kieran Loughran, 1993

Start 3mts rt of Old Bold And Cold below central crack line. Up wall and finish a for OBAC.

FA: Wayne Maher & Pia Larque, 31 Dec 2012

From the bottom left side of south facing grey wall just rt of the south west arete, follow twin cracks diagonally up across face to step rt at 2/3rds height. Follow next crack to move off left at top.

FA: Wayne Maher & Pia Larque., 8 Jan 2010

Start at the corners 6mts left of the SW arete below a small tree. Follow the main central recessed line to sketchy exit on terrible rock, dead shrubs and moss.

FA: Glen Donohue, Wayne Maher & Andrew Webb., 1990

Starts 6mts left of DW at the rt facing corner crack. Up the rounded crack and corner above through bulge and up thin corner to twin cracks formed by questionable micro pillar. At horizontal break, step rt to finish up Dirty Work.

Chains above this, take care lowering / rapping on 50m.

FA: Derek Vissor & Wayne Maher, 1989

The finger crack through the bulge to the ledge. Continue up Hot to finish.

FA: Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue & Andrew Webb, 1990

Starts at the steep left facing corner on the left side of the main face. Up to ledge, step left and up the line to the top.

FA: Wayne Maher, Derek Vissor & Ann Vissor, 1989

Awkward moves with exposure at the top. Starts 2mts left of Hot. Scramble up wide crack to ledge. Climbcrack on rt to an angled ledge, move rt to arete and finish up crack.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Judy Grove., 1996

More awkwardness. This is the dirty corner 1mt left of GW.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Judy Grove, 1996

Could be harder than the grade suggests(not confirmed) Finger crack on arete 2.5mts left of Warm. Climb the face rt of the crack from a small alcove/shallow chimney, then move left to crack.

FA: Geoff Butcher., 1996

Starts at the left facing corner 20mts uphill from Cold etc. Corner then left into wide crack then face above.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Adam Penny., 1996

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Radiator.