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Description

A prominent long cliff line 1 km south of the visitors centre. Altho' there are a few good climbs popularity is limited by a scrubby [albeit short] approach and some scarily loose blocks on a few of the climbs.

Access issues inherited from Halls Gap Area

A low profile always helps to avoid too much attention from tourists and park rangers

Approach

From the visitors centre cross the creek on the footbridge as for access to the Peanut Gallery etc. Head R ward across the open paddock dodging kangaroos, emus and deer. Where the paddock narrows down to a channel of cleared ground leave it to head uphill on the R side of a lightly wooded gully. This will bring you out at the 4wd/walking track. Head R to the high point then scrubbily uphill to the RH cliff. Head L and down to the 2nd gully then up and R to the LH cliff [which is surprisingly close to the track]. Around 15-20m minutes.

Descent notes

Descend from either end unpleasantly or bring a spare rope and set up an abseil point.

Ethic inherited from Halls Gap Area

Bolting, is considered illicit, along with the rest of the park and other National Parks within Victoria. Only alter routes after considerable consultation with first ascensionests and local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Left Cliff

The upper L end of the L cliff is a pinnacle. Start up short, wide corner crack below chimney separating pinnacle from buttress to its R. Step R onto buttress and climb prominent crack with 2 steep sections. Take large cam [BD#4]

FA: Chris Baxter, David Gairns & Kieran Loughran

FFA: 1996

Take (very) large pro. Follow Nerve Gas until you can move right to foot of prominent, left-facing corner-crack. Up it.

FA: David Gairns, Cassandra Azzaro, Chris Baxter & Michael Stone, 1996

And the beat goes on; excellent and sustained. Slab 15m right of Nerve Gas to left-facing corner with thin crack (#2, #3 RPs). Corner to first roof. Swing right to next line. Pass huge, loose block on its right side. Up.

FA: Chris Baxter, David Gairns & Michael Stone, 1996

Crack in right wall of corner 2m right of Black Rock. Follow hollow flakes up and left to join that route.

FA: Michael Stone, Chris Baxter & David Gairns, 1996

Brilliant and sustained face climbing with good pro. Up pair of small corners on rib 2m right of Pension Day. Step up left from ledge near top for dramatic exit to final (easy) section of Black Rock.

FA: David Gairns, Chris Baxter & Michael Stone, 1996

Excellent and extremely sustained climbing. On left cliff at left end of steep section, immediately right of slabs. Climb weakness leading towards mantel at 8m in this black line, but at 5m go up left for 2m to next line, a shallow, left-facing corner with a slabby left wall. Corner to big, loose block (care!), then steep crack to ledge with tree. Finish up right arête.

FA: Wayne Maher & Chris Baxter, 1996

May be easier with a clean, but has one pretty dicey move as it stands. Good. Line, starting at left-facing corner 8m right of Dawn Patrol. (Fourth line from right end of left cliff.) From ledge at top of corner climb line, moving very slightly right after hard section.

FA: Wayne Maher & Chris Baxter, 1996

Third line from right end of left cliff, with tree at 12m. From top of crack step right and climb middle of buttress.

FA: Chris Baxter & Geoff Gledhill, 1996

Good. Line at right end of left cliff, starting from block. Tricky start, then crack above, veering very slightly right above steep section.

FA: Wayne Maher & Chris Baxter, 1996

Middle Cliff

Starts 20m right of the central descent gully, at the corner (with a zig-zag crack in the right wall). Up the corner and over a ledge and then the corner above to the top.

FA: Wayne Maher, Derek Vissor & Anne Vissor, 1989

Right Cliff

Starts 10m right of the cave.

  1. 25m Up to below the large flake/buttress on the wall above and carefully move right and up the line to the top of this. Move left on to lower ledge and belay.

  2. 15m The corner to the top.

FA: Derek Vissor & Wayne Maher, 1989

Hard to identify from the original description. Start up dark line of shattered rock just R of HotT [there is no line of dark shattered rock there]. Step L then up to roof. R through this on flakes to small stance. Aid crack on L.

FA: Wayne Maher & Glen Donohue, 1989

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 14 Nov 2015

Starts at far right end of main cliff in middle of second-last block. Take wall left of black groove to first ledge at 3m. Traverse left to crack that splits block. A long reach leads to next horizontal, past BR, then follow seam up wall, right near top.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1997

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 14 Nov 2015

At right end of the right wall is prominent buttress. Corner on its right side, entered from right.

FA: James McIntosh, Wayne Maher & andrew webb, 1998

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